TR: Millmentum - East Face Lead Wall, The Black 5.9
Gear: The crux of this mega-classic is equipped with a fixed draw, however, some parties may find a light alpine rack helpful or the standard Wasatch REI starter pack (ABC daisy chain, 4-6 fresh caribiners, and a showcase of exactly three "i climb outside" quickdraws).
Approach: Highly detailed descriptions and topos can be found at momentumclimbing.com, so I will only include a general outline here. Ascend from the north via the Wasatch Boulie; the south via the Belt, and the west via the desert floor (3300 South). Other options include standing next to any Subaru in the Westminster parking lot and bumming a ride.
Finding the Route: If you have timed the approach correctly you will arrive at the base within about an hour of checking in. Turn to your left and cast an explorer's gaze towards Corridor of Shame. This is NOT where you want to be...at least yet? Now, convince yourself that you WILL get on a route this night and pre-claim your territory by tossing your rope and shoes in front of said route. Important: Speed is safety in the gym and if you feel compelled to engage in any time-wasting maneuvers such as fixing your hair, cuffing your jeans, or worse yet, checking your knot? DON"T DO IT! And if all else fails, ask Braxton, Braden, Camden, or any of the other non-climbing belay police for directions.
The Climb: Before you begin, assess the plethora of "X"s on the route's laminated rating tag and compile an average. Four 5.9's plus two 5.10c's make a 5.10a+ (Duh!!), Don't bitch and moan if you still get sandbagged. Eyeball from the base, the route's intricate and carefully designed layout. Anticipate now, dead-points, drop-knees, pulling a muscle, and an escape plan to larger holds of different colors. Begin climbing on deep, jug-rash inducing "grips", and pass five bolts until the sizes begin to decrease. Here, if nobody is looking, seriously consider taking, because the wall will soon increase by another 25 degrees. If you've made it this far, carry on over crimps, footholds, and whatever other hex bolted plastic thing of the same color you deem fit to grab in order to maintain your gym onsight, after all, THIS MEANS SOMETHING!! From here, grunt or yell your way to the top, and don't be surprised if all the jugs have now turned into three pad crimps or even worse, slopers, remember, this is the gym and its just like climbing outside damnit. Now scrape, skim, and destroy your shoe's toe cap as you move towards the chains. Here is where the magic happens! Now pinch the last hold, which will be at least three feet from the anchor and dyno for the wall's sandpaper edge!! Clip the opposed-gate biners and signal for a lower. Victory! Congratulate yourself on the send and high-five your partner, you just warmed up.
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