Many thanks to Bret Ruckman and Stuart Ruckman for their work in providing so much great beta in Wasatch Climbing North dtd 1991.
Bong Eater Buttress is found on page 157. I have just about worn out my copy. Some information below is from their book and some of the information is from my own personal experience and my interest in old and great aid routes that are still fun and challenging to climb. I would also like to acknowledge Chris McNamara and www.supertopos.com
for the format. Please visit his web site. As always climb at your own risk, be careful and climb safely. Carl ...
Bong Eater 5.10d, C1+ or Top Rope***, Little Cottonwood Canyon
Bong Eater Buttress:
On the north (left going up the canyon) side of Little Cottonwood Canyon, straight above the lighted sign at the intersection of Highway 209 and 210, is a steep chunk of granite with an obvious dehedral. This dihedral is Bond Eater, the first significant outcropping of granite in the canyon.
On the north east corner of the Park and Go
parking lot at the bottom of Little Cottonwood Canyon is the start of the Bong Eater Buttress trail. Climb up from the parking lot for a short distance to a trail intersection. Turn left (west going down canyon) for approximately 20 feet, then take the obvious trail right (north) and follow this trail to the Bong Eater Buttress. The buttress is a 10 to 20 minute hike.
The Bong Eater
and The Hand Eater
(just right of Bong Eater) are two great short aid routes. Both routes are easy to set up for a solo climb. Bong Eater
is a challenging off width adventure that takes clean protection well and gives the climber a great chance to use his/hers biggest cams for the problematic off width finish. The top of Hand Eater
gives a leader and a follower a chance to set up, execute and clean a short pendulum traverse. Don't let the C1+ or the shortness (70 feet) route fool you, these routes are fun and challenging and they will test your aid climbing skills. Bong Eater
and Hand Eater
are good winter routes with mornig to midday sun.
Warren Marshall and Lenny Nelson, 1964
First Free Assent:
George Lowe and Pete Gibbs, 1974
2 each (offset useful)
1 each to one inch
3 to 4 each 1.25 - 1.75 inch
2 each 2 - 3 inch
I each larger sizes to 5 inches (save the big sizes for the top)
With extra cams or a modest amount of back cleaning in the 1 - 1.75 inch sizes the route can be climbed with cams only.
Bong Eater is a very popular free and top rope off width/lie back crack climb. Like all of the best crack climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon they are great opportunities to practice your granite aid climbing skills. Generally I would suggest that you aid on these best climbs in the off-season or during questionable in-season weather. To start the climb, throw in an opposing cam at the bottom of the route. Rack most of your gear on your left side and try to stay out of the crack as much as possible. I have found the top to be very tricky and I am reluctant to describe my cluster of cams and desperate humping of the rock to finish. On my last aider placement I attached a fifi hook to my aiders with a 10-foot cord for easy retrievel as I left my aiders for an airy 10 feet of 5.4 free climbing to the bolts.
The lead climber will help the second if he/she redirects the tag line through the third bolt which is down and climbers right (east) of the main two bolts. This little act of friendship will keep the cleaner from getting stuck in the off width at the top. Also, if you choose to use stoppers it is always nice to have a hammer for cleaning.
Rappel the route or walk off the back.