Wasatch History

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tanderson
Lead, follow, or get out of the way!
Posts: 135
Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2008 1:23 pm

Re: Wasatch History

Postby tanderson » Fri Sep 22, 2017 10:32 am

Hey Brian,

When are you going to write a Wasatch History book? I would love to see a book simliar to Crushers desert tower book. If you aren't interested, maybe I'll do it?

bsmoot
Wasatch benefactor
Posts: 338
Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:31 pm
Location: Salt Lake City

Re: Wasatch History

Postby bsmoot » Sun Sep 24, 2017 10:20 pm

I've thought about it for a while, but haven't had the time...work keeps me busy. For now I try to post up stuff on utahclimbers.com. It's helpful to have climbers of all generations record their most important climbs. Nate Smith did a lot of research while working on his guide. The climbers of the 60's are the most critical to get information from as some of them are not around anymore. George Lowe is the most important figure to contact, I've tried to reach him, but have not had success...yet. Troy, if you have the time and energy, I'd be happy to help.

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trashman
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Joined: Tue Nov 19, 2002 10:30 am

Re: Wasatch History

Postby trashman » Sun Oct 15, 2017 7:38 pm

So much winning in these shots.

Hope you get the history project off the ground. Let us know if you need help crowdfunding it.

bsmoot
Wasatch benefactor
Posts: 338
Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:31 pm
Location: Salt Lake City

Re: Wasatch History

Postby bsmoot » Sat Dec 08, 2018 11:44 pm

Image

Kim Miller, (on the right) at El Cap Tower, the Nose, Yosemite, 1970's

Image

On On Prodigal Sun, Angel's Landing, Zion

Kim Miller started climbing in the Wasatch in the early 1970's while attending BYU. Perhaps the most naturally talented climber I've ever roped up with. I first met him bouldering at the Gate buttress in the late 70's. He had an abundance of energy and drive to climb....always interested in pushing things. In December 1975 he made an early ascent of the Dorsal Fin (the first non-Lowe ascent). Then with various partners he climbed the route another 9 times. Several years later, he upped the ante by climbing an even harder route, a first ascent first stared by Jim Knight called Intensive Care. The route had long runnouts on 5.11 climbing. In the old non sticky rubber EB shoes his ascent was quite a feat. Kim did a similar climb in City of the Rocks...a 2nd ascent of a route called Infinate (5.11) , a Jeff Lowe route. Some of the hardest moves of this climb are 30' out from the last protection. Around this same time (1976) in Rock Canyon, Kim first climbed Meadow Muffin, (5.12a) with Mark Ward.

Kim, worked for Cadwell Labs, a medical supply company that took him around the western US, enabling him to climb all over the west. He climbed many prominent routes in Yosemite, Squamish, Red Rocks the Tetons, Winds and all over Colorado. In Canada he climbed the huge ice route Polar Circus with Brett Ruckman. In the 1970's Kim was an active ice climber. He made an early ascent of Bridal Veil falls in Colorado with Jim Knight. I remember climbing a 2 pitch farmed route in Provo canyon...just right of Upper Bridal Veil Falls. On the second pitch, the ice was vertical, but only about 1 to 2" thick and only in patches. Kim eyed it up and decided it was doable. Completely unprotected for 35' he carefully and skillfully made his way to top.


More coming...


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