Its official: January Thaw this week!

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Tenesmus
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Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Tenesmus » Tue Jan 25, 2011 6:09 am

http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=88

Highs in the mid 40's. Maybe a little inversion by this weekend. I'm hitting some south facing rock!
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby bheller » Tue Jan 25, 2011 7:23 am

Sound's nice, I'll settle for a south facing window...it was -12 here this week.
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Over_the_hill » Tue Jan 25, 2011 10:44 am

2" of snow in my front yard today, not much of a thaw. Never trust KSL. :o
Damn, I racked up for a day at the slips based on your post this morning too...
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby sevrdhed » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:16 pm

While headin up to hit free ski, I realized that the outer canyon boulders were bone dry. I think by thursday, if the temps stay as high as they're supposed to, It'll probably be good out there. I'm gonna head out and check 'em.
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby boissal » Tue Jan 25, 2011 1:56 pm

Maybe the "thaw" can soften the 1" ice crust that coats much of the higher Wasnatch. Getting tired of WI2ing my way up and down stuff I want to ski...
I'll hit the outer canyon boulders though!
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby db » Wed Jan 26, 2011 12:14 pm

Anyone post-holed to the BIllboard recently?

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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Fuser » Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:15 pm

Right as the January thaw comes to a close. New route, first likely of the years so far in Little Cottonwood. Take that you slack ass sucka hooker bitch faces. All the slackers out there, you know who you are, but I will name them anyway. backclip, boissal, tea, shaft, grk, trizzel, Shingo and many more but I am done naming. Bunch of damn slack ass hookers if you ask me;) hahaha. The new line goes right up the peeler. Start the black peeler and as you get half way up the round arch head sky bound. Ting Ting Ting if you know what I mean. Yes thats right slack monkeys its january aid climbing. A2 we are thinking. really fun nailing at its finest and steep. TDA led a brilliant bust ass right in the steep with a short bolt ladder between cracks, Next pitch takes a right leaning crack for a traverse, probably some of the funnest horizontal knife bladeing I have ever done. Another short bolt ladder takes you to the last crack that leads to the top of the peeler... Ill post some pictures and rack info if anyone is interested in some good old fashion aid climbing.
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby boissal » Sun Jan 15, 2012 5:54 pm

Fuser wrote:spray

Yawn...
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby grk10vq » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:12 pm

Fuser wrote:Ill post some pictures and rack info if anyone is interested in some good old fashion aid climbing.

i wouldn't bother.
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Fuser
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Fuser » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:18 pm

Just as I thought a bunch a honky ass boulders ;)
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Fuser » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:18 pm

Hell Broke Luce A2. Start up the black peeler, as you make your way around the arch you will see a seam above the roof you are on. here is where the nailing begins. For the first pitch you will only nee a couple blades (shorter the better) and one beak. Short bolt ladder takes your to the ledge and the belay is to the right. Second pitch begins just to the right of the belay. I think we only used a total of 3 cams on this whole pitch. yellow, green and blue alien or TCU which ever you prefer. follow the right arching crack till it peeters out. You will find a short bolt ladder right above you that leads to the last crack system. You are going to need a few pins for this pitch. probably 7 to 10 KBs (an assortment of short to med length, 3 to 4 bird beaks, 2 baby angles and one short fat lost arrow. small TCUs to #4 BD's, 2 sets on TCU's - #1 BD. One 60 meter rope will get you there. From the top you can rappel right into the Peeler Direct rappel stations. I hope there are still some aid climbers out there that will appreciate this route.
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Last edited by Fuser on Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:13 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Fuser
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Fuser » Sun Jan 15, 2012 6:21 pm

Yawn...[/quote]
That must have been what you were doing when called you for a belay yesterday ass puck!
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Ben Folsom » Mon Jan 16, 2012 9:51 am

Fuser wrote:Right as the January thaw comes to a close. New route, first likely of the years so far in Little Cottonwood. Take that you slack ass sucka hooker bitch faces. All the slackers out there, you know who you are, but I will name them anyway. backclip, boissal, tea, shaft, grk, trizzel, Shingo and many more but I am done naming. Bunch of damn slack ass hookers if you ask me;) hahaha. The new line goes right up the peeler. Start the black peeler and as you get half way up the round arch head sky bound. Ting Ting Ting if you know what I mean. Yes thats right slack monkeys its january aid climbing. A2 we are thinking. really fun nailing at its finest and steep. TDA led a brilliant bust ass right in the steep with a short bolt ladder between cracks, Next pitch takes a right leaning crack for a traverse, probably some of the funnest horizontal knife bladeing I have ever done. Another short bolt ladder takes you to the last crack that leads to the top of the peeler... Ill post some pictures and rack info if anyone is interested in some good old fashion aid climbing.


Nice, I have looked at that line a lot, but always too lazy to dig my pins out of the bottom of the haulbag. Not the first new route in LCC this year though. We put up a new route on 1/1/2012 and another on 1/3/2012. A few funky cracks down lower in the canyon. Free climbing in January with T-shirts...
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Fuser
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Fuser » Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:11 am

Ben, Thats why I put likely the first route. Good job on the new routes by the way. Now you can go free this aid line.
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Ben Folsom
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Re: Its official: January Thaw this week!

Postby Ben Folsom » Mon Jan 16, 2012 10:20 am

Thanks for the photos. I have always been interested in that horizontal crack near the top. Hows the rock quality up there? That seam above the Peeler Roof looks scary!
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