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Chris O. bolted the route, i'll ask him about the name.

The "new" routes on the Aquaduct were bolted by Greg Martinez a few years ago, the .11 is called Submachine and the 10b is called Burning Bits, they both need a few pieces of gear.

Shaft,
did you ever get that info on that new route. Name, rating, Date of FA, # of bolts etc.

Speednat, here is the info from Chris:

The route info:
Name: Better Than Bitter
FA: July 1997; Chris Omer, Doug Roylance
Protection: 8 Bolts w/ top anchor
Rating: 5.10c/d ("c" if you go a wing-span to the left between the 5th and 6th bolts and use the ledge, "d" if you strictly follow the bolt line)

Climbed the first pitch the other day. This is pretty good, even though the wall looks like hell from below. Take a brush up if you go because it could stand a good cleaning.

Climbed these routes also. I'd say Day as Night would get a trad rating of 5.8 and Fall Equinox would be 5.7 at most and can easily be climbed at 5.6. Now, my standards for 5.7, 5.8, and 5.9 are things like the Bastille Crack, West Buttress of the Bastille, and Hair City, so you may or may not agree. Both routes seem to get good traffic.

Seems like the upper bolts on Day as Night lead you into the slot but the flake around the corner to the right looks both better and safer.

There are 4 JG routes, from left to right roughly: ~5.3, 4 bolts, 50'; 5.6 or 5.7, 1 bolt, 60'; 5.5, 7 or 8 bolts, 65'; 5.5, 6 or 7 bolts, 65'. The 1-bolt line is located between two box elders. It has high-quality thin cracks on beautiful rock and is worthwhile. The others are good for beginners. Its an easier, lower-angle alternative to the Slips.

Went up and did Psychobabble again the other morning and noticed a bolted line between it and Psychostematic on the arete. I don't remember it from a couple of years ago when I last did it. What is it?

Also, I wonder how often Eye in the Sky gets done? Between those bolts you gotta get in aliens - or do TCU's work? I was messing around on TR and got in a couple, but they looked too wide for the slots. (especially the first one)

These routes serve as another reminder of the stout method in which a lot of BCC was first done. Makes Golsen's Wasatch History very real. Those guys really were a bunch of badasses. What a steep, amazing wall. Forgot how cool bcc is.

This makes a fantastic dawn patrol circuit if you want a fun pump in a hurry.

Mule Hollow Wall
Approach: About 100 feet left of Jam Crack
3D Double Cross
F.A: 6.23.05, Kris Pietryga and James Garrett
Protection: QDs and small selection camalots
Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #3: Aim for the left edge of a bushy ledge passing 2 bolts on the way. 5.5, 30m.
Pitch #4: The face becomes quite broken. Many protection options exist, but you may find one bolt protecting this pitch. 5.4, 30m.
Pitch #5: Romp up the final 20m to the top of the wall, no bolts, but two-bolt belay. 5.3, 20m
Rappel the route

Mule Hollow Wall
Approach: About 100 feet left of Jam Crack
Down, Dirty, Doublecrossed
F.A: 6.23.05, Kris Pietryga and James Garrett
Protection: QDs and small selection camalots
Pitch #1: Start in a clearing at one of the bigger sections of the wall. Climb pockets and edges past 4 bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch #2: Continue straight up passing three bolts to a ledge and two bolt belay. Cool sculpted rock and pockets. 5.6, 30m.
Pitch #3: Aim for the left edge of a bushy ledge passing 2 bolts on the way. 5.5, 30m.
Pitch #4: The face becomes quite broken. Many protection options exist, but you may find one bolt protecting this pitch. 5.4, 30m.
Pitch #5: Romp up the final 20m to the top of the wall, no bolts, but two-bolt belay. 5.3, 20m
Rappel the route

howdy, noticed this on saltlakeclimber... Looks very close to a line done all on natural gear (see ruckmans guide, Splitseam in '85). Originally called 10a. Although the bolted line could be to the left a bit. If you read Ruckman's description even they had a hard time figuring out where splitseam went after I pointed it out to them. Frankly, I doubt anyone ever did splitseam except for the FA. It was a harrowing lead back in the day...

substitute "dumb" for bad and you might have a truer picture . I have a bosch and know how to repel better now....

Finally went and got Eye in the Sky yesterday and I gotta say it needs to stay as it is. What a killer, unique route! Placing gear on the .10 section isn't as intimidating as I thought it would be when I was working out the crux at those bolts. Funny how that works. I think the bolts are just where you need them and the fall is so clean you don't need more. Glad that wasn't retrobolted.


I got on this yesterday thinking it was the .11c. Its really fun, but I forgot how long you said it was. I think the first bolt is hard to clip and very committing for short people and someone has added a sling to it with a biner but its looking worn already. Glad I'm tall and could reach through the spook. A 60m rope works barely, and you need a few long runners (as stated). I had to downclimb and back clean a few bolts to make it to the top, but its easier there and pretty easy to do. I think ending it at the harder part would have been fine and made for an easier descent. The sun was directly in my eyes for most of it, making that last roof especially difficult to read. BCC can have such fantastic movement on utter f-ing choss. This route is recommended - nice job in spotting the lines up there.

We climbed this yesterday...some notes:

P1: five lead bolts. Second bolt probably should be moved. Its in kind of a depression, and, puts a bad load on the biner. Also, for consistency, I thought another bolt past the 5th might be better (as you have the first bolt, then some bomber trad pro for a couple of placements, then a tight string of 4 bolts in a row, then 15 or so feet of blank face runout that seems out of character with the 4 bolt string).

P2: Only saw 1 bolt. 5.5?

P3: Got the 2 bolts, but, on rappel, we came up 10 feet short of the p2 anchor. I guess I should remeasure my rope...? Anyhoo, I'd call this 33 meters...and folks should think about using a 70m rope for this route, perhaps (that is, if they decide to rappel the route, after doing so, standard descent might be quicker).

P4: found the 1 bolt. Might be 5.5.

P5: I'd probably call this 5.5 or 5.6ish.

All in all, good route. Some of the bolts seem a tad out of place for the natural line (ie, first bolt is too far left, then the others are too far right) if you try to follow the local weaknesses, but, not so much as to be annoying.

I do think, ahem, that you may have bolted a line that had been climbed before. Seems very close to "the central face" at 5.6R. But, you can almost climb anywhere on the face. Ton of gear possibilites too, most within a few feet of them bolts...

Be nice to replace the 8mm trail line with chain at the anchors. Also, them cheap ass chain links are kinda bad. Low grade, and, thin. Not bomber. Also, plucked the SMC hex, as, it was pretty loose and them bolts are bomber.

For gear, we used a set of stoppers and cams from 0 TCU through #2 camalot which seemed plentiful.

Cheers!

Brian,
Glad you enjoyed doing DDD, however, it is different than Central Wall and it was drilled on the lead, so maybe all the bolts aren't exactly where they "should" be and maybe the eventual plan was to haul up chain at a later time to replace the very bomber 7mm static there in the meantime. I believe the route will become quite popular with those in the crowd seeking "longer" moderate routes. I have climbed it with only QDs as protection, but certainly you are able to zip it up with additional gear. I don't plan at this point of repositioning some bolts that may be "in depressions"...I may suggest threading a sling through instead of a carabiner? Some bolts in a string may represent a steeper more direct alternative than weavng around. This route allows one to still go up on that somewhat grueling trail and take one rope and and a paltry rack
If you feel strongly about altering this route's protection options, please feel free to do so, but adding more bolts hardly seems necessary as you claim the route could be done without any in the first place. Or do I misunderstand? the raps with stretch should pretty much be enough....it was for us?
Appreciate your comments and I hope to repeat it again soon and will get back with you,
James

Looks like 8mm BD trail line, green.

Where is it in relationship to the Central Wall? I thought it might be closer to the Jam Crack (on the very blank face left of Jam Crack), and, the guidebook says Central Wall is 75 feet left. Which...is right about where this route is. No biggie, but...(really, there's a ton of options for starting up at about any location).

Maybe Cental Wall is kinda 10 feet to the left, but, then trends right to intersect DDD? Nice rock.



Neutrino works kinda ok, but, the load is kinda on the spine (or has the potentail to be). Yep, you pays your money, you takes your chances.



Pair of shoes, chalk bag and 120 foot rope works, too. Standard rappel to the climber's left pulls up a tad short for 100 foot rope (as in, the rappel is around 60').



Pretty sure I solo'd it a couple of times over the years...and led it with pro years ago too, so...not a big deal to me, personally. Just a bit out of character to have four tightly spaced bolts, then some air to the belay. No big.



I really need to measure my rope, but, yikes. We were at least 10 feet above that belay station with a darn stretchy 8.1mm 60m rope.

Cheers!