Lesser known boulders?

Moderator: Shaft

Wagon
Gaper
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:00 pm

Lesser known boulders?

Postby Wagon » Wed Nov 30, 2011 5:03 pm

Hey everyone, new jack on the forum here. Some of these may have been discussed, but I couldn't find them, so here we go. Was just wondering if anyone can give me some info on some of the following problems, that I can't seem to find. I've cut through most the doable black book stuff, looking for more!

-Baggins
-Great Divide
-Sunset Arete
-The Sloth
-Blindspot? Blindside? something?
-Pocket Pleasure

Also, what's the word with White Child? The thing seems damn near impossible. V8/9? Ya kidding me? GRACIAS

happy J
Not a leader of any group
Posts: 145
Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2007 1:43 pm
Location: SL,UT

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby happy J » Thu Dec 01, 2011 10:11 am

Baggins: New line put up by Mike beck. Located above Toms problem at the cabbage patch. There are two lines each with two exits. Start on the left side of the cave for baggins and climb right to a jug or start on the right on the cave and climb to jug (much easier). Then traverse left to top out in the dihedral or keep going left to top out as for shrimps. Both lines in the cave are great.

Great divide: Located in the fern gully, . Check wiki boulder for directions.

Sunset arete: located in the upper secret garden. listed as a project in the black book. near a problem called mike calls delight or something?

The sloth: is a jump start to the rodeo fuck problem listed int the black guide. Located by paul bunion at the wasatch resort.

Blinside: .5 miles below tanners flat campground. Right off the road on the north side. You would be blind to miss it. climbs the southeast arete.

Pocket pleasure: In the white pine south talus hard to find cave. Between the moose boulder and party pit. Steep roof with pockets to start.

Good luck .

White child beta: be 6 feet or taller. use good toe hook for all but last move . v8 ha

Wagon
Gaper
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:00 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby Wagon » Thu Dec 01, 2011 12:41 pm

Awesome, thank you Happy J.

Does the Sunset Arete have a massive manmade landing, and climbs an orange-ish prow? If so, I've seen it and it looks great.

Psyched to get on some of these if the weather holds. Once again, appreciate the beta, might have some more to throw out there if the weather stays good. Cheers!

That makes me feel a little better after the complete and utter shutdown on WC, thing is nails.

-Kipp

User avatar
200#gorilla
Broseidon, King Of The Brocean
Posts: 3382
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2003 7:54 am
Location: little

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby 200#gorilla » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:12 am

Sunset Arete is above Shingles/Bully in the Secret Garden area.

Big man made landing, yes.

Wagon
Gaper
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:00 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby Wagon » Thu Oct 18, 2012 3:05 pm

What's up everyone,

Hope you all are having a good fall so far!

Had a quick question regarding a couple problems I've heard of but can't seem to find or know of anyone who knows where they are. Let me know if anyone has any info!

Post Anal Drip
The English Patient

Cheers

The Monk
Chuffer
Posts: 115
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:45 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby The Monk » Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:10 am

Post Anal Drip(PADS), which was done from a lower start and named Ezekiel, is on the Alzheimer's boulder.
Stand starts with Left hand on a sloper on the left arete and a left heel, Right hand on the Alzheimers starting hold.


The English Patient is in the lower Water Tower area on the south side
Pg 268 in the Black Book, the arete left of number 32, if you were looking at the boulder.

boulderjunkie
Topropin' Dogwood
Posts: 87
Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2005 1:30 pm
Location: Sin City

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby boulderjunkie » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:48 pm

The English Patient (actual name is The Patient) starting hold broke a couple years ago and I'm not sure it's been done since. It originally started with left hand on the arete and right hand pinch/undercling if I remember correctly. Had a hard first move up the arete before going out right to slopers. Happy J would know more about it.

Wagon
Gaper
Posts: 27
Joined: Wed Nov 30, 2011 4:00 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby Wagon » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:44 pm

Very cool, thanks for the info Justin and boulderjunkie. Appreciate it. Makes sense, PAD, Post Anal Drip. Should have put two and two together. Haha.

I saw on an 8a spraycard that The English Patient had been climbed since it broke. Sounds cool, and is a new problem, so can't be all bad. Hope it dries up this weekend! Temps are looking prime.

-Kipp

User avatar
sevrdhed
Being the Real Strong
Posts: 2403
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:51 am
Location: SLC

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby sevrdhed » Tue Oct 30, 2012 10:30 am

What do you think the far right starting boulder problem in the Baggins cave goes at? Tried it the other day, seemed hard but doable.
boissal wrote:jeebus the signature thing is out of hands...

The Monk
Chuffer
Posts: 115
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:45 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby The Monk » Tue Oct 30, 2012 11:08 pm

Far right start to the first exit just left of the chockstone, V7

User avatar
sevrdhed
Being the Real Strong
Posts: 2403
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:51 am
Location: SLC

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby sevrdhed » Wed Oct 31, 2012 7:57 am

I could go for that. That low start is ludicrously hard... I spent like 5 minutes feeling all of the holds that are facing the wrong way and trying to figure out how to levitate my way up to that left hand... and it looks like that's not even the hard part. Yikes.
boissal wrote:jeebus the signature thing is out of hands...

mb
LCC Emeritus
Posts: 308
Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:09 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby mb » Wed Oct 31, 2012 11:40 pm

Sevred,
With Baggins (actually called "Bag End," not Baggins, by my buddy Shane, I never really named it anything), I was surprised to see people are using handholds in the crack, it seemed pretty obvious to me that the crack was off, otherwise why not just hand jam?
If you don't use the crack holds it is probably V8 to do the easy start to easy finish, as these are some of the hardest moves on the problem. if you use the crack, could be more like V5?

User avatar
boissal
Posts photos of pets on Facebook
Posts: 2119
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:44 am

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby boissal » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:19 am

mb wrote:why not just hand jam?

Because bouldering, that's why. Sev couldn't hand jam his way out of his own butt crack...
Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

User avatar
sevrdhed
Being the Real Strong
Posts: 2403
Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 8:51 am
Location: SLC

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby sevrdhed » Thu Nov 01, 2012 10:57 am

I like bag end - makes way more sense, since that place is obviously a hobbit hole.

Are you talking about not using the holds on the lip, right underneath that other boulder? Gettin across to that crummy match without using the holds on top would be a feat of magic for me... heck, even using those holds I still found myself gettin stuck trying to match that dang thing.

Of course, it's also more than 3 moves long, and that's certainly a limiting factor in my ability to boulderclimb.
boissal wrote:jeebus the signature thing is out of hands...

mb
LCC Emeritus
Posts: 308
Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:09 pm

Re: Lesser known boulders?

Postby mb » Fri Nov 02, 2012 12:31 pm

yes, you do not use the crack holds at all, including the holds on the left edge of the crack. go from the holds just left of the jug, and with a heel hook for the right, do a big move out left to a little crimp, then sort out the feet and cross over to the next hold. some of the hardest moves on the problem, but it seemed logical to not use the crack holds. Otherwise, I guess you could jam, stem and use whatever else in there to make it easy but for me that was not really the point.
I don't really like contrived problems in general but this one seemed pretty natural to off route the crack and the back wall. However, people will certainly do whatever and I don't really care, that is just the way I originally did the problem.
MB


Return to “Bouldering”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron