Mystery problem? Chip and Dales. New joes.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

Does anyone know what the boulder problem to the right of "Planet of the Apes" in the Chip and Dale area of New Joes is called/rated or if it's been done? It doesn't seem like a testpiece or anything. It starts in a dihedral on good incuts or jug huecos depending on which holds you choose and really good heel hooks and heel toe cams then quickly turns into to terrible holds with long reaches. I asked a bunch of people down there and got mixed info. Any accurate info would be awesome.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

I guess that means no one knows what the hell it is.

manyo · **Posted:** Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:29 pm

I know it says it's the "Bouldering" forum but everyone here is really nothing more than washed up crusty old trad climbers. Sorry Tony. Also, BVB probably sent that thing back in '82.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

Thanks anyway.

sevrdhed · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:26 am

[quote="manho"]everyone here is really nothing more than washed up crusty old trad climbers./quote]

Soooooooooo true.

I also have no idea what problem you're talking about, having not been to that area more than once. And bvb almost certainly sent it in '82. Or earlier. If he doesn't remember, he was probably too drunk.

The Monk · **Joined:** Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:45 pm **Posts:** 97

I believe that problem is still a project. Is it the line that had a hold break? There was a guy from LA named Daryl working a problem on that boulder, either that line or the line on the back of the boulder, not sure if thats the one youre talking about. Not sure if he did it. So no, no real information on that thing.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

The Monk wrote:

I believe that problem is still a project. Is it the line that had a hold break? There was a guy from LA named Daryl working a problem on that boulder, either that line or the line on the back of the boulder, not sure if thats the one youre talking about. Not sure if he did it. So no, no real information on that thing.

That is the problem. I read something about Darryl Dodson from LA trying it and not getting anywhere but back on the pad. It also had a hold break on it but I can't figure out where. It's definately not "Vegas". I did all the moves but I didn't link 'em. Now we're getting somewhere:)

200#gorilla · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:59 pm

yeah TD, send that shit!

p.s. now i don't feel so bad that i had no idea WTF you were talking about when U texted me.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

Going down to give it some effort tomorrow. I'll let you know if it's climbable down there:)

rafiti · **Joined:** Fri Feb 17, 2006 4:10 pm **Posts:** 28

would love a snow report--
post up conditions!

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

Bring snow shoes and a flame thrower or just abort mission. This place is fucked unless it gets a couple weeks of direct sunlight and forty five degree temps. Off to Moab. Fick!!!

grk10vq · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:32 pm

thanks for the update tony danza.

200#gorilla · **Posted:** Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:37 pm

grk10vq wrote:

thanks for the update tony danza.

more like phil ivey with mad crimp dna.

Tony Dunn · **Joined:** Fri Jun 27, 2003 7:57 pm **Posts:** 24

Big bend is in great shape!!! Perfect conditions!!!

Thanks RW!!

The Monk · **Joined:** Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:45 pm **Posts:** 97

The Vegas project was sent this week. Still called Vegas, sent by Noah Kauffman, long reach into the crack hold with a left toe hook. Get Some.

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Mystery problem? Chip and Dales. New joes.

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