Trip Reports

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bsmoot
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Trip Reports

Postby bsmoot » Mon Feb 16, 2015 10:32 pm

Just seeing about getting locals to post up their trip reports....could be fun.

Here's a good old one from Jim Dockery in the late 70's

http://jimdockery.com/climbaround/N.Ame ... ooker.html

Please post up, even if it's your first time leading Beckey's wall!

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Re: Trip Reports

Postby grk10vq » Mon Feb 16, 2015 11:19 pm

Devout Mormons, the Smoots had sacrificed principle for their heathen friends and carried up four cans of beer, which they had cooled in the summit snowfield. We toasted our success in the glow of an incredible sunset, and stumbled down in the dark, arriving back in camp at 2 a.m.

On a slightly similar note, that passage reminded me of the time Tenesmus drove me all around Las Vegas looking for a Trader Joes so I could buy one 6-pack and some dried bananas. We had just returned from getting bouted on Spectum.
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby Tenesmus » Tue Feb 17, 2015 9:10 am

Bouted with a capital B.

Just Saturday I was laughing that I still rack my gear on the sling we retrieved from someone else's bail off the first pitch.

And if you need to find it, Trader Joe's is located just left of the Las Vegas asshole.

At lest the shitty one you took us to.

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Re: Trip Reports

Postby grk10vq » Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:13 am

Image
those were the best six beers two tanks of gas ever bought.
Last edited by grk10vq on Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby grk10vq » Thu Feb 26, 2015 12:13 am

TR: Millmentum - East Face Lead Wall, The Black 5.9

Gear: The crux of this mega-classic is equipped with a fixed draw, however, some parties may find a light alpine rack helpful or the standard Wasatch REI starter pack (ABC daisy chain, 4-6 fresh caribiners, and a showcase of exactly three "i climb outside" quickdraws).

Approach: Highly detailed descriptions and topos can be found at momentumclimbing.com, so I will only include a general outline here. Ascend from the north via the Wasatch Boulie; the south via the Belt, and the west via the desert floor (3300 South). Other options include standing next to any Subaru in the Westminster parking lot and bumming a ride.

Finding the Route: If you have timed the approach correctly you will arrive at the base within about an hour of checking in. Turn to your left and cast an explorer's gaze towards Corridor of Shame. This is NOT where you want to be...at least yet? Now, convince yourself that you WILL get on a route this night and pre-claim your territory by tossing your rope and shoes in front of said route. Important: Speed is safety in the gym and if you feel compelled to engage in any time-wasting maneuvers such as fixing your hair, cuffing your jeans, or worse yet, checking your knot? DON"T DO IT! And if all else fails, ask Braxton, Braden, Camden, or any of the other non-climbing belay police for directions.

The Climb: Before you begin, assess the plethora of "X"s on the route's laminated rating tag and compile an average. Four 5.9's plus two 5.10c's make a 5.10a+ (Duh!!), Don't bitch and moan if you still get sandbagged. Eyeball from the base, the route's intricate and carefully designed layout. Anticipate now, dead-points, drop-knees, pulling a muscle, and an escape plan to larger holds of different colors. Begin climbing on deep, jug-rash inducing "grips", and pass five bolts until the sizes begin to decrease. Here, if nobody is looking, seriously consider taking, because the wall will soon increase by another 25 degrees. If you've made it this far, carry on over crimps, footholds, and whatever other hex bolted plastic thing of the same color you deem fit to grab in order to maintain your gym onsight, after all, THIS MEANS SOMETHING!! From here, grunt or yell your way to the top, and don't be surprised if all the jugs have now turned into three pad crimps or even worse, slopers, remember, this is the gym and its just like climbing outside damnit. Now scrape, skim, and destroy your shoe's toe cap as you move towards the chains. Here is where the magic happens! Now pinch the last hold, which will be at least three feet from the anchor and dyno for the wall's sandpaper edge!! Clip the opposed-gate biners and signal for a lower. Victory! Congratulate yourself on the send and high-five your partner, you just warmed up.
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby boissal » Thu Feb 26, 2015 9:17 am

This should have been sent to a climbing mag!
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby bsmoot » Mon Mar 23, 2015 11:47 pm

Well, at Momentum, I was there the other day with my wife. Stumbling over to the wall, I belayed her. She quickly sent, and when being lowered back down, she noticed a young couple snickering at me. Overhearing, my wife said it was something about the old looking baggy gym pants & shirt I was wearing. I was oblivious to this because I'm clueless to fashion and also, the belay police were walking by and I was trying not to make eye contact with them. Usually if I'm dressed like a gomer, It was still possible to surprise the kids with a smooth send of a 5.9+, but now after some surgery, climbing was slow, awkward, sporadic and tentative. I remembered back to the 1980's when 15 of us misfits pooled our $500 each to start Utah's first indoor climbing gym...The Body Shop. It didn't matter what you wore. It could be big wall pants, pink paisley lycra or......GYM SHORTS! Training in those days was purely to get yourself fit for trad climbing. Even attending the U of U, we buildered on the excellent Union Building sandstone. In our self-adsorbed-climber state of mind we also thought it would impress the girls...In hind site, it surely had the opposite effect.

Things have sure changed these days. Now, lots of "climbers" just gym climb. If my dress is too ghetto, my better half won't be seen with me. Next door, at Planet Fitness, a sign said, "No Gymtimidation here". There, just like in the movie Dodge Ball and the Average Joe's gym, I feel accepted!

P.S. interesting how in a few posts this thread has spiraled down from a proud ascent of the North face of Mt. Hooker to being butt hurt at the climbing gym.
Last edited by bsmoot on Mon Apr 27, 2015 10:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

tanderson
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby tanderson » Tue Mar 24, 2015 6:49 am

Let me guess, the couple wore really tight jeans, super thin soled sneaker, black framed glasses and were members of some kind of cross fit? Perhaps some pastel colored rims on their souped up subaru, or a bike from some type of collective? This sounds typical of the milleniums, they seem to be much more interested in the look of a person rather than the skill or experience of that person. In fact, I have noticed the dudes of this generation seem to look at each other like 15 year girls look at each other while they compete for some teenage boys attention. Nothing like a well manicured beard that is 8" long, pouring oneself into jeans too small for my 7 year old niece, with one eye on the prize (looking at other dudes) and the other on a smart phone.

Maybe you can offer them a rescue when they don't get cell service and are stranded trying to do the offwidth on Schoolroom. As you can see I think most 20 somethings suck.

These statement come from experience, as I have to work with many interns in their last semester.
Thanks for the insight Brian.


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Re: Trip Reports

Postby BackClip » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:16 pm

I lol'd extensively at the past two posts.....good shit. Brian I hope the shoulder is coming along!
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bsmoot
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Re: Trip Reports

Postby bsmoot » Tue Mar 31, 2015 11:28 pm

Spot on Troy, though despite a generation (or two) difference in age, I like the the kids, they're amusing...I'm sure it's mutual. Here's another trip report of local climbers Jim Dockery and Dave Jenkins, climbing Canada's Mt. Kitchner, Grand Central Couloir. This was about 1979


http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/threa ... msg2591933

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Re: Trip Reports

Postby bsmoot » Sat Jan 02, 2016 6:58 pm

Trip report, climbing gym:

When the Millcreek Momentum first opened, Les Ellison and I decided to give the new gym a try...what a gong show we provided. On the steep wall, Les huffed and puffed his way up for 40 feet until he unexpectedly popped off. Back on the ground, he was unable to untie his knot. I tried to help, but it was about 15 minutes. Soon, it dawned on us that people were there waiting to climb our route. I hurried and pulled the other end of our old 10.5mm rope and we finally got the knot untied. Next to us, some younger climbers were proudly "flaking" their new pink 9mm rope. Soon after, another route opened up so I quickly grabbed one end of our rope and drug it 50' over to the spot. A quick reprimand came my way as the rope I was pulling got crossed over someone else's belay line and tangled in a backpack...how embarrassing! To top things off, 10 minutes later when Les lowered me to the ground, I forgot to finish un-tying my knot. Without noticing, Les pulled the rope and, of course, the knot jammed in the links at the top of the wall. Perhaps the constant pounding of rap music had dulled my mind. After finally getting the rope down, I walked into the one-person bathroom only to find someone at the urinal. "Oops! Sorry, should have knocked". After finishing my turn, I headed out, walking past a bunch of fit young women. Reaching down for the exit door, I noticed my fly was down.



Here's a real trip report with one of our own, Robert Price, who descended from high on the Direct South Buttress of Mt. Moran, in the Tetons with a compound fracture in his foot.

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Mt-Moran-Di ... 1894n.html

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Re: Trip Reports

Postby tanderson » Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:44 am

This is a great story. I especially love that it happened in a hipster zone such as a climbing gym. I recently felt like an alien climbing in Ferguson. It seems much different from that of the 90's which is when I started. One thing I have noticed is that there are more capable female climbers. Todays ladies are leading as much as the men. I wonder if anybody in that gym had any idea of who you guys were? Perhaps you should start taking selfies with a selfie stick and build your reputation in social media?

I once fell upside down approaching the outerspace pitch in Big Willow. It was a rolling 30-50 footer. Broke my nose, crushed my helmet in my backpack, broke some ribs, and bled all over my white t shirt. The terrain was 5.0 max however I still took the plunge. People on the routes to the east came over to see what was happening. Felt like such a beater.

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Re: Trip Reports

Postby bsmoot » Wed Jan 06, 2016 9:28 pm

That's right! I've got to get a selfie stick. So I was in the up stairs section of the gym doing my usual light workout / warm ups...doing these post surgery pushups where my knees touch the ground. A friend of mine was teasing me about doing "girly pushups"....yet as you mentioned, there are a lot of strong talented women at the gym these days.

Just like your fall on an easy pitch in Big Willow, I had a similar experience in Yosemite. It was 1978 and we were on the first day of the Salathe Wall. We were a bit behind schedule, so I rushed it up a 5.7 pitch just below Mammoth Terraces. Doing a lieback , I stepped on some grass and popped off suddenly, bouncing down the rock for 35'. The rope caught me just before a big ledge...I'd injured my wrist. Far below in El Cap Meadows we could hear someone heckling me....anyway here's a shot of Rick Wyatt, 3 days later jugging up to Long Ledge 350' below the top.


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Re: Trip Reports

Postby BackClip » Wed Jan 13, 2016 8:49 pm

great stories! You should see what I have been climbing. Gnarly Louisiana barstools!
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