Mystery routes

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boissal
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Mystery routes

Postby boissal » Mon Dec 08, 2014 2:18 pm

We've had a few threads about mystery lines in the past but I can't seem to find them right now so I'm starting a new one for the 3 of us still posting here.
Any information on:

. A new 3 (maybe 4) bolt "line" which may be a direct start to After the Fall in Green A.
I didn't notice it this spring but spotted it last weekend, it climbs the brown wall pretty much directly below the nice hand crack of After the Fall. Easy? Hard? Worthy? Could it be an independent line through he house of cards above?

. The 1-pin 3-bolt slab below the anchor of Trinity Right. The pin looks old as dirt, the bolts not so much. The slab looks doable until the 3rd bolt but the section to the anchor looks comically blank. Who bolted that pile? Does it even go?
While we're on the subject is the 2nd pitch of Trinity worthy?

That's all for now, I seem tor recall seeing bolts that didn't make sense from the top of Looney, maybe a line to the right of Badlands, but I'm not positive...
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Re: Mystery routes

Postby jonathan knight » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:27 pm

I heard recently that someones had FA'd that house of cards right of After the Fall. This is the likely the source of the new bolted start.

That pin is mine, so it's not that old ~ 15 yrs. I placed it for the bolted line that traverses right across the small ledge and the ensuing roof, nose feature then up into the second pitch of Right Trinity which is worthy. It's a unique line that someone should climb, especially since it has a SLABDYNO crux!

Around the same time, Matt Lund and Dan Guertler bolted that dreamscape direct to the Right Trinity anchor. Chalk it up to youthful confidence, or maybe they saw something that most others can't envision. They were wicked strong at that point, and it was cool to see them applying bouldering/sport climbing prowess to the LCC routes. Maybe the bolts should be pulled, but it would be nice to have a legitimate crusher give it a look. Emphasis on legitimate, no social media fabrications please!

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby grk10vq » Mon Dec 08, 2014 7:37 pm

jonathan knight wrote:Emphasis on legitimate, no social media fabrications please!

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby boissal » Tue Dec 09, 2014 9:04 am

jonathan knight wrote:I heard recently that someones had FA'd that house of cards right of After the Fall. This is the likely the source of the new bolted start.

Damn... The flakes on ATF seem hollow enough, climbing the twin crack above must have been rowdy. It looks steep and thin! Hopefully more info pops up...

jonathan knight wrote:That pin is mine, so it's not that old ~ 15 yrs. I placed it for the bolted line that traverses right across the small ledge and the ensuing roof, nose feature then up into the second pitch of Right Trinity which is worthy. It's a unique line that someone should climb, especially since it has a SLABDYNO crux!

The pin looked older than the bolts. Doesn't make you old! :mrgreen:
How hard is the line? Long pitch to the top??

jonathan knight wrote:Around the same time, Matt Lund and Dan Guertler bolted that dreamscape direct to the Right Trinity anchor. Chalk it up to youthful confidence, or maybe they saw something that most others can't envision. They were wicked strong at that point, and it was cool to see them applying bouldering/sport climbing prowess to the LCC routes. Maybe the bolts should be pulled, but it would be nice to have a legitimate crusher give it a look. Emphasis on legitimate, no social media fabrications please!

Well, I didn't want to say anything but according to facestagram and twinterest I may have already sprayed, er, sent it...
The line does look ludicrous. I could see someone getting to the last bolt but the finish is so blank it makes glass look featured.

Thanks for the info JK! I'm always curious to see new bolts sprouting up there...
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Re: Mystery routes

Postby jonathan knight » Tue Dec 09, 2014 8:10 pm

One long pitch, and it's probably mid to hard 5.12.

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby GregG » Wed Dec 10, 2014 10:03 am

Didn't Shingo and Tyler put up that hanging acute corner to the right of ATF a few years ago? Pretty sure they went up that corner, and peered around to the right but decided to bail back into ATF as the direct didn't have adequate pro.

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby jonathan knight » Wed Dec 10, 2014 7:02 pm

That sounds like they didn't do it.

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby engineer1984 » Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:55 pm

I'm a crusher

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby boissal » Thu Dec 11, 2014 9:26 am

engineer1984 wrote:I'm a punter

Today looks like a good day to be "sick" and wander up there...
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Re: Mystery routes

Postby engineer1984 » Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:49 pm

Wait, is this line harder than All Chalk and No Action?

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby boissal » Thu Dec 11, 2014 1:56 pm

engineer1984 wrote:Wait, is this line harder than All Chalk and No Action?

Well, All Chalk does have a bunch of holds so I'd say yes...
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Re: Mystery routes

Postby engineer1984 » Thu Dec 11, 2014 4:32 pm

damn

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby grk10vq » Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:28 pm

engineer1984 wrote:damn, i'm a punter
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Re: Mystery routes

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Dec 18, 2014 10:14 am

The line right of ATF was done by John Steiger this summer. A friend says the climbing gets better the higher you go with a wild stemming section and steeper climbing.
Supposed to be in the low .12 range?

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Re: Mystery routes

Postby grk10vq » Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:37 pm

Steeeegy Steeegzz!

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