Touch Up's piton has been removed

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GregG
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Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby GregG » Sat Nov 03, 2012 7:18 am

Last night the pin came out in my hands while following the first pitch. The eye had rotated about 45 degrees to the north from it's original straight up and down orientation, and was about a 1/3rd of the way out when I came upon it.

What are your thoughts in regards to that pin, it's location, and the quality of the placement vs. that of clean gear or a bolt? With the east facing aspect of the route the pin will loosen again due to freeze thaw. Looks like micro gear could be had right there...

Skyman
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby Skyman » Sat Nov 03, 2012 10:04 am

That piton, if it is the original, has taken many a fall. I remember catching Dave Lunt on a big 30 footer back in the early 90's. He almost decked and launched me into the wall from the nice comfortable belay ledge I was laying on. I'm not a fan of bolting a crack, but a bolt here may be appropriate. Flame on.

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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby GregG » Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:32 am

I'm pretty sure clean gear can be had just below the pin placement.

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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby boissal » Sat Nov 03, 2012 11:41 pm

There's thin gear just below the pin. I usually place a red C3 then a green or purple within a foot of the iron. That doesn't mean I ever felt the need to skip the clip though...
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Tenesmus
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Nov 05, 2012 7:24 am

Would that gear keep you out of the dihedral if you blew the mantle? That's the real deal for a .9 and it would really suck to flame yourself out getting in that gear and then slam back into the corner.

I have a piton protecting the crux on one of my routes and a few guys asked me to replace it. I almost did it this summer till I realized there is a bomber .5 camalot protecting the very next move.
But then I was working a line in BCC which has a bomber piton for the 4th bolt and got totally freaked out by it. I'm seriously considering replacing both. Funny how bomber I feel about the piton I placed versus how suspicious I feel about the one someone else placed.

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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby tanderson » Mon Nov 05, 2012 8:04 am

I recently took a thirty footer just standing on a newly placed knifeblade. I guess when it was driven, a hairline crack was created across the middle of the pin, inside the crack. The pin was fixed for about 6 months when I gumby-ed upon it, sat back and away I went. The back of the pin did not show signs of being overdriven. There is really no way to tell what is going on inside the crack. I've always accepted fixed pins as good pro, but am now starting to believe otherwise.

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Brian in SLC
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:15 pm

Tenesmus wrote:Would that gear keep you out of the dihedral if you blew the mantle?


Bunch of years ago, I think around 15 or so, I carried a friend back to the parking lot who did just that, when he missed the clip. Badly broken ankle (looked like he'd put his shoe on sideways...grim). To this day he limps. Used to run, climb and bike a bunch. Not so much anymore. Bummer.

You pays your money and takes your chances, but, that was an important piece of pro for a bunch of folks. Kind of reminds me of the Stem the Tide pins that were replaced by bolts. Hmmm.
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby rocknsnow » Tue Nov 06, 2012 11:34 am

Caught some big falls off that pin. I'd prefer to see it replaced with a bomber new one but if that's not possible a bolt there seems reasonable. Is the FA party available for comment?

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sevrdhed
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby sevrdhed » Tue Nov 06, 2012 8:51 pm

Just throw some pads underneath it you bunch of ninnies
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby grk10vq » Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:36 pm

back in the 90's we didn't have pads....or the sense to place protection before the pin.
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GregG
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby GregG » Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:08 pm

The pin is a #6 LA I believe. From the looks of how it was driven to the eye before seems like the placement could easily accept a #7.

I've seen more than a couple whips onto that pin, and am convinced it either needs to go back or be replaced by something more long lasting. if someone hasn't replaced it already...

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Tenesmus
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Nov 08, 2012 6:18 am

I recently took a thirty footer just standing on a newly placed knifeblade. I guess when it was driven, a hairline crack was created across the middle of the pin, inside the crack. The pin was fixed for about 6 months when I gumby-ed upon it, sat back and away I went. The back of the pin did not show signs of being overdriven. There is really no way to tell

Dang TDA. That's spooky. I'm not into that.

Bunch of years ago, I think around 15 or so, I carried a friend back to the parking lot who did just that, when he missed the clip. Badly broken ankle (looked like he'd put his shoe on sideways...grim). To this day he limps. Used to run, climb and bike a bunch. Not so much anymore. Bummer.

You pays your money and takes your chances, but, that was an important piece of pro for a bunch of folks. Kind of reminds me of the Stem the Tide pins that were replaced by bolts. Hmmm.


Nor am I in to Ruining someone's ankle. I've never looked at the options Alexi mentioned but would think that taking a hard look at the available gear makes sense. If anyone wants to head up I might be able to sneak out of work a little early this afternoon - assuming it stays dry with the storm coming in.

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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby GregG » Fri Nov 09, 2012 7:12 am

Did you ever get up there after work Ten? I'll head up with you after this storm system passes over the weekend.

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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby BackClip » Fri Nov 09, 2012 11:12 am

One vote for another pin or bolt.
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Re: Touch Up's piton has been removed

Postby ZOSO » Sun Nov 11, 2012 5:41 pm

+1.

Although it doesn't mean shit coming from me.


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