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Zot - Utahclimbers.com

Zot

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Zot

Postby Shaft » Fri Jun 08, 2012 12:26 am

Just right of plumb line, now is your chance to spray, have you led this thing? Do you have photos?

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Re: Zot

Postby boissal » Fri Jun 08, 2012 8:43 am

That thing is so stupid hard it's not even funny...
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Re: Zot

Postby BackClip » Fri Jun 08, 2012 8:58 am

Zot sucks (read: really hard)....but I bet Folsom has done it a few times.
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Re: Zot

Postby Ben Folsom » Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:07 am

Crux is reasonable once figured out. The runout above the third (last) bolt is ridiculous. In the Ruckman guide they show the line going straight up after the last bolt. I've always ended up escaping up and left to the plumbline anchor (5.8R). The promising horizontals up high offer NO protection. If you fell from the top going straight up it is probably a ground fall.
I have no photographic evidence.
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Re: Zot

Postby boissal » Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:46 am

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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Re: Zot

Postby Ben Folsom » Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:57 am

Wholesome Folsom

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Re: Zot

Postby boissal » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:09 am

Seriously though, I'll bribe you with tasty beverages to go up there this fall when it's cool. Would love to see someone doing it and take pics of it...
Considering the things you've done on the JongEater buttress I'm sure that type of slab is approachable.
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Re: Zot

Postby grk10vq » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:19 am

stupid hard. expected to cheat my way through with my size.
my theory, if it looks doable, it probably is? unlike talus food.

i prepare to bout that thing again when its cold.
like 49 degrees cold.
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Re: Zot

Postby Ben Folsom » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:32 am

Talus food is doable. I have managed to eek my way up it. The slabs I can't seem to figure out in that area are The Schoolroom Streak and Chicken Little. Totally baffling! What do people think are the hardest slabs on the granite?
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Re: Zot

Postby boissal » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:37 am

Schoolroom streak looks sick... Was toying with the idea of rapping in and trying it before I forgot how to go up blank granite without loading my pants with poop. Chicken little looks redonkulous. Have you done Rising Sun Ben? That one looks slightly more approachable...
How about that thing left of Closet Lycra?

Hardest slab? P1 variation of Stiffler's maybe?

HAR HAR :mrgreen:
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Re: Zot

Postby grk10vq » Fri Jun 08, 2012 10:57 am

off the top of my head: koyaanisqaatisi and primal scream?
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Re: Zot

Postby Ben Folsom » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:22 am

I've never been on Primal Scream. Koyaanisqaatsi is a great route. I can't do the crux move. Jonathan claims it is easy, "There are two tiny crimps up there, and all you have to do is pull them down to your waist."

If looks could kill, left of closet lycra is a great hard slab training TR. The flakey crux could use a bit more traffic too.

I've checked out Rising Sun a little bit. Too shaky to commit to trusting the old fixed gear on that thing. I think it has been repeated recently by one or some of the local bad asses around. It's a nice looking line.
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Re: Zot

Postby BackClip » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:46 am

"Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

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Re: Zot

Postby grk10vq » Fri Jun 08, 2012 11:53 am

the time to do that route is a dry day in december.
i learned wed/thurs, first-hand the difference good
temperatures make. i want it to be 55 everyday.
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Re: Zot

Postby ZOSO » Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:54 pm

+1 for If Looks Could Kill. Fun route. If I could do it on TR, then it's certainly not one of the harder ones.


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