[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/phpbb/session.php on line 590: sizeof(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/phpbb/session.php on line 646: sizeof(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/phpbb/session.php on line 1068: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/phpbb/session.php on line 1068: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/phpbb/session.php on line 1068: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 492: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/bbcode.php on line 113: preg_replace(): The /e modifier is no longer supported, use preg_replace_callback instead
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 5133: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 5133: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/includes/functions.php on line 5133: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at [ROOT]/includes/functions.php:3843)
Disputed bolts/routes - Page 2 - Utahclimbers.com

Disputed bolts/routes

Moderator: Shaft

User avatar
grk10vq
Fully Gay (NTTIAWWT)
Posts: 3270
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:45 pm
Location: 84109
Contact:

TAKING THE TAXI IS WRONG>

Postby grk10vq » Tue Nov 09, 2010 3:31 pm

it is hard coming to a conclusion?
i do think its great to hear so many different opinions though.

case by case i think is the best.
we're all going to be hypocrites to some extent...

the bungle had no bolts, but i'll be damned if i'm not racing to clip that upper bolt at the lay-back. i'm not saying that its right, there are far better examples; some things seem to make sense as time passes.
i think its a shame whats happened to the west slabs and even tingey's.
sure you don't have to clip the anchors-and sometimes i don't.
sure you can walk off- and most times i do.
i've had the option to make my own decisions in the past and that carries over every time i go out.
saying that, if i have to ride my bike home after the bar on a cold night or i'm just handed a taxi?
i'm probably going to take the taxi.
like me on facebook

User avatar
monkey
Badass Mofo
Posts: 409
Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 11:57 pm
Location: LCC
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby monkey » Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:09 pm

Arm and Hammer?
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

bsmoot
Wasatch benefactor
Posts: 338
Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:31 pm
Location: Salt Lake City
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bsmoot » Tue Nov 09, 2010 10:58 pm


User avatar
Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:02 pm
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:16 am


User avatar
Over_the_hill
Chuffer
Posts: 112
Joined: Sun Dec 14, 2003 3:36 pm
Contact:

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Over_the_hill » Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:21 am

Some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue......

User avatar
Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:02 pm
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Wed Nov 10, 2010 11:36 am


User avatar
Tenesmus
Chupacabra
Posts: 1960
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 12:33 pm
Location: slc
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Tenesmus » Wed Nov 10, 2010 4:40 pm


bsmoot
Wasatch benefactor
Posts: 338
Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2003 7:31 pm
Location: Salt Lake City
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bsmoot » Wed Nov 10, 2010 7:28 pm


User avatar
weschrist
dick hole
Posts: 874
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:46 am
Location: Left Sac
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby weschrist » Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:20 am

There are those who want to keep the canyons as a museum, to honor their youthful accomplishments and bold ignorance. To show the rest of us that "average" climbers back then were WAY bolder than climbers of today. It is the same logic that keeps my friend's dad from putting seat belts in his Covair... he's gone blah blah blah mph without them and he is fine, plus they weren't there in the first place.

And there are those who want bolts close enough that a fall will not result in them spilling the double shot soy macchiato they carry in their second chalk bag. Why should they risk ANYTING? This is recreation for Smith's sake.

The Bungle has a bolt now? That actually sounds worth leading now! I don't mind falls, as long as the gear is solid and I'm not going to hit anything. I've belayed two partners leading that thing: an old bold trad master who hung on the last cam (which if I recall is a shallow small metolius cam?) to get his shit together before the upper section. I gather this tactic isn't all that uncommon with the "old bold" crowd... "just testing the piece." The other was a young dumb kid who threw himself at anything without fear. He had at least one broken limb for most of the 5 years I knew him.

The population of Utah has grown ~60% since I started climbing, and I assume the climbing population has at least kept pace. Back then it was not uncommon to have a few people waiting for Bushwack, School Room, or other reasonably easy, reasonably safe climbs in the area. I can't imagine the situation has gotten any better. For those of you who got sooooo much out of climbing back in the day, how do you suggest climbers of today handle this obvious change you were never confronted with? Just jump on whatever happens to be open... maybe warm up on The Bungle or walk over to Cheetah? Part of being a good climber (I think) is to know your limits and keep yourself safe. As such, the only option would be to wait in line for a "reasonable" climb or go home.

More climbers unwilling to risk life an limb every time they go climbing require more routes that are reasonably safe. That said, nobody should be scared of a little 40' slab ride... as long as the only thing between you and the ground is not a shallow tipped out cam behind a shaky flake. I'm not defending the bolting, simply pointing out that it is (likely) an obvious, direct result of more people at the crags looking for reasonable climbs. Back in the day when you did your old, bold routes, you most likely had the crags to yourselves. If you didn't feel up to it that day, you simply made up an excuse and wandered over to another route. That option isn't always there these days. There is limited rock and more climbers looking for reasonable routes.


Good luck, and hopefully BOTH SIDES can act reasonably.
"The point is, you see, that there is no point in driving yourself mad trying to stop yourself going mad. You might just as well give in and save your sanity for later." FP

User avatar
samg
More professionally played cowbell
Posts: 607
Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:26 pm
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby samg » Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:55 am

There is plenty of undeveloped rock in Utah... there is no lack of places to climb... the classics aren't the only good safe routes in LCC. No need to wait in line or retrobolt. Maybe hike a little, Smith forbid.

User avatar
bheller
Crushing The Slips
Posts: 155
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:00 am
Location: Surrounded by teabags
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bheller » Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:00 am

There is more climable rock in Utah than just about anywhere. There are plenty of easier safe routes and harder safe routes in every canyon. This isn't the issue at hand. Respect the style of the f.a., and uphold the traditional adventure on established multi pitch routes. Honor the unique Lcc experience. No one is saying no to new quality lines... no matter the difficulty, no matter the canyon. Most of us would also like to keep the bold spirit of Wasatch monzonite alive as well. We have a unique area here, with a unique feel - a rare thing. If a person wants safety and convinience, and are unable to find that on the monzonite, (it totally already exists...) than that person will likely have an easier time finding it on a different rock type in another close by canyon. That's all.
I don't know the difference from my asymtote and a hole in a graph

User avatar
bheller
Crushing The Slips
Posts: 155
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:00 am
Location: Surrounded by teabags
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bheller » Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:01 am

Beat me to it!
I don't know the difference from my asymtote and a hole in a graph

User avatar
weschrist
dick hole
Posts: 874
Joined: Fri Jul 02, 2004 10:46 am
Location: Left Sac
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby weschrist » Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:16 am

The point isn't how much choss this state has. The point is, there are a bunch of people who enjoy climbing on rocks who live within 45 minutes of the rocks in question. That produces a need for a reasonable amount of reasonable routes. It will happen sooner or later, like it or not.

The line it is drawn
The curse it is cast
The slow one now
Will later be fast
As the present now
Will later be past
The order is
Rapidly fadin'.
And the first one now
Will later be last
For the times they are a-changin'.





The most unique thing about LCC is its proximity to a large metro area with lots of metro climbers sporting fauxhawks. Similar routes are a dime a dozen in the Sierra. The ones that are easy to get to are reasonably safe. The ones that take work to get to remain bold. It ain't rocket science.
"The point is, you see, that there is no point in driving yourself mad trying to stop yourself going mad. You might just as well give in and save your sanity for later." FP

User avatar
bheller
Crushing The Slips
Posts: 155
Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:00 am
Location: Surrounded by teabags
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bheller » Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:55 am

Thanks for the English lesson...I'll pass that on to the auto word fairy in my dumbphone...Then i wont seem like an uncouth ass.
I don't know the difference from my asymtote and a hole in a graph

User avatar
samg
More professionally played cowbell
Posts: 607
Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:26 pm
[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby samg » Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:10 am



[phpBB Debug] PHP Warning: in file [ROOT]/vendor/twig/twig/lib/Twig/Extension/Core.php on line 1107: count(): Parameter must be an array or an object that implements Countable

Return to “Routes”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests

cron