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Disputed bolts/routes - Utahclimbers.com

Disputed bolts/routes

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Dave Budge
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Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Dave Budge » Mon Nov 08, 2010 12:49 am

In an attempt to tally new or disputed bolts and other miscellaneous grievances, please list here (or PM me) with information. Not looking for opinions, be concise.

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby rudyj2 » Mon Nov 08, 2010 10:25 am

Western Grebe. As of 11/3/10.

Pitch 1: 1st and 3rd bolts are retro. I think there are now 6 bolts on this pitch. Use to be 4.
Pitch 2: 1st bolt above the Mantle Variation bolt is a retro. I don't remember if there where anymore.
Pitch 3: I didn't climb this pitch but from the anchor I could see 2 bolts that I don't think are original. They are not as new (meaning the rock dust was gone) unlike the other new bolts. Someone else with more experience with that pitch should chime in. Topo shows only 1 bolt at half pitch height and I remember it that way from long ago.

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Sunny-D » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:13 pm

I thought the new bolts were on the first pitch of Via Duck and one new bolt on the 2nd pitch of WG. At least that is what I remember from saturday.

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby grk10vq » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:36 pm

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Fuser » Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:59 pm

Yeah there are 3 bolts on the right Variation that have dust under them. Then on WG there bolt 1, 4 and maybe one even higher than that too. I think I counted 6 total but I might have just been 5

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby monkey » Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:33 pm

90% of the geezer wall.
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby grk10vq » Mon Nov 08, 2010 6:06 pm

chicken head holiday anchor.

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Last edited by grk10vq on Tue Nov 09, 2010 4:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bsmoot » Mon Nov 08, 2010 11:25 pm

The Hook:

the bolt at the crux, just before the belay. Not part of the historic first ascent.

There are others...

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Tue Nov 09, 2010 9:37 am


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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby bsmoot » Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:17 pm


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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Shaft » Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:40 pm


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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Tue Nov 09, 2010 1:49 pm


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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby boissal » Tue Nov 09, 2010 2:28 pm

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Tue Nov 09, 2010 2:33 pm


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Re: Disputed bolts/routes

Postby rob duncan » Tue Nov 09, 2010 3:01 pm

I would like to see the rap anchor bolts chopped and patched and the tree re-slung up in LPC at the top of pete's staircase. (these bolts are certainly not in character with LPC)


edited to put ethical discussion in better forum...


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