anchors.

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grk10vq
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anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Sat Feb 14, 2009 7:57 pm

some good, some bad, some ugly, some creative?

-safety tom special.

p1 outside corner. BCC

Image

you can imagine my excitement.

-jazzy's early attempts. (not bad by comparison)

p1 varnishing point. Red Rocks

Image

i didn't have the misfortune of being involved, but a picture was in due order.
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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:06 pm

-a menagerie.

p2 ancient art. Fisher Towers

Image

theres a lot going on here.

Image

a minor presidents day traffic jam.
there were still two other people on the ledge at the time.
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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:17 pm

-sling town usa

p2 east crack. Boulder Canyon

Image

seemed pretty solid.

-alpine anchor.

p5 shadow of the blade. Devils Castle

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pretty cush belay.
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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:45 pm

-token ferguson anchors.

skinny len crimps. The Cathedral

Image

it works.

-route slayer special.

p2 dorsal fin. Little Cottonwood

Image

i may have underestimated on gear?

-threes a crowd?

mid s-direct. Little Cottonwood

Image

a very welcomed ending.

-symmetry.

top of hook direct. Little Cottonwood

Image

i'm a fan of the auto lock.



got any safety tom death belays?
any sweet action anchor shots?
any orgy-like belay ledges?

post em up.
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Tenesmus
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Re: anchors.

Postby Tenesmus » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:16 am

Grk's having another MP moment of Zen!


Image
check out the undercammed #3 friend in the middle

Image
The coolest part of this one is that you took the time to equalize yourself but put your partner on belay exclusivelyoff that cool BSmoot red marker sling

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Re: anchors from hell? ;)

Postby BackClip » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:49 am

Hey Grk how is Shadow of the Blade? Been on my hit list just haven't hit it yet....

Where did your anchor insult go????? So I guess we can now delete our posts? That was one feature I liked about the old one. Once you wrote it...well.....

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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Sun Feb 15, 2009 4:15 pm

The coolest part of this one is that you took the time to equalize yourself but put your partner on belay exclusivelyoff that cool BSmoot red marker sling

i'd do the same for you tenesmuspoo!!!
that thing was totally solid.
it was practically virgin webbing. so lonely up there all by itself.

i didn't post that pic a while ago, because i was thought "ooooh, probably shouldn't have done that.."
while i don't condone this behavior, that part was real easy and bossial was practically running up that pitch.
no metal on metal or torqued biners.

bc- shadow is so good! its got a very consistent set of pitches. a lot of rock and very little dirt/scrambling. plus the 1st and 2nd pitches could be separate of themselves.
i thought the rock was quality and damn solid.

and who deleted an insult!
the nerve.

unless it was me and i forgot?
i figured if i put a bunch of these up it might get people talking.
that and i hoped it might brings some real gems out.
so far the safety tom special deserves a trophy.
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Re: anchors.

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Feb 16, 2009 7:40 am

wasn't tom all supersafe and cautious? But he was also super pagan and wild and monkey and all that? nice to be proud of something I guess. Is that why he clustered up that anchor so much? Sort of "I'm spooked so I'm cramming as much into this anchor as i can" yet none of it is all that great...
I wish I'd taken pics of some of the anchors I made in the Wind's last fall. I was fine till Sunny D and I kept running onto Zoso's brother's completely unequalized clusters. It spooked me so much I did kind of a safety tom and put in like 5 or 6 pieces in each anchor. Something about theirs really got my head spinning. "ummm, I think I can get another nut in the back of this little chimney... oh and another orange tcu..."

One of my worst was when we did the second pitch of Cranial Prophylactic. (isn't that the 5.8 right of Smitty's?) Up on top there is a thin, bottoming crack that takes 00, 0, 1 tcu's and a nut -oh, and a crappy scrub oak. Zoso and I were tied into the anchor while we lowered off our friend Curtis. Both of us were staring at the cams thinking hard about, "don't blow... don't blow..." I'm sure it was bomber, I just didn't like all the beef the three of us had hanging off of it.

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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:55 am

too bad we didn't get a picture of the anchor on spectrum.
it was crap wrapped around crap.
i remember thinking.."man, if we both fall on this....i don't know?"

-minus b.s. location sling.

p3 territory of the mad. Ibex

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i love the pas.
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Re: anchors.

Postby PunchKing » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:57 am

I know knotting, pstcnt++++

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Tenesmus
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Re: anchors.

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Feb 16, 2009 7:01 pm

too bad we didn't get a picture of the anchor on spectrum.
it was crap wrapped around crap.
i remember thinking.."man, if we both fall on this....i don't know?"

definitely added to my sketch factor! Made committing to that crazy traverse even less appealing.

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Re: anchors.

Postby sevrdhed » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:32 am

Wtf do all those things actually do?


Look, color!
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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Tue Feb 17, 2009 8:04 am

give me some directions and maybe we'll talk.
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Re: anchors.

Postby boissal » Tue Feb 17, 2009 11:34 am

Tenesmus wrote:Image
The coolest part of this one is that you took the time to equalize yourself but put your partner on belay exclusivelyoff that cool BSmoot red marker sling


So glad I didn't notice that when I got to the belay. Granted I was already so sketched on that climb i probably wouldn't have made any difference...
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grk10vq
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Re: anchors.

Postby grk10vq » Tue Feb 17, 2009 1:00 pm

so glad you didn't notice it because...you don't like being re-directed off my waist?
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