ASCA

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monkey
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Re: ASCA

Postby monkey » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:36 pm

Kinda the main purpose here.
George wanted me to send him one of his 1/4 inchers from the wasatch.
So five should do the trick.
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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TheLumberjack
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Re: ASCA

Postby TheLumberjack » Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:02 am

I can haul some more loads Friday morning or something, gotta work by noon though...

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Over_the_hill
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Re: ASCA

Postby Over_the_hill » Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:34 pm

Brian in SLC wrote:Told him his bolts hadn't all been replaced on S Direct.


I think that an "active" climber in the 90's replaced the bolts on the S direct. He displayed them at REI when he worked there, so if anyone wants those relics back they will need to talk to him.
Some days your the pigeon, some days your the statue......

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monkey
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Re: ASCA

Postby monkey » Thu Jun 09, 2011 1:44 pm

There are still a few up there, one or two lead bolts and 4 at the belays.
Most of the work should be on nob job and spring fever.
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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monkey
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Re: ASCA

Postby monkey » Fri Jun 10, 2011 8:07 pm

Saturday is the day.
I could use some company.
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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monkey
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Re: ASCA

Postby monkey » Sat Jun 11, 2011 4:25 pm

Four bolts on S-Direct replaced and one on Nob Job.
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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samg
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Re: ASCA

Postby samg » Sat Jun 11, 2011 10:53 pm

Thanks!

Also, the new SML anchor is plush...

Nice work!

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grk10vq
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thanks for nothing you bum.

Postby grk10vq » Mon Jul 18, 2011 11:11 pm

monkey wrote:When was the last time you clipped an asca bolt and where :?:

pitchatent, i mean pentapitch, p5; july thirteenth.

as mentioned, i accessed it from provo.
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monkey
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Re: ASCA

Postby monkey » Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:51 pm

I know its short notice but, Doing some rebolting in lcc for crag day.
Going to be working on the humane society wall.
Might do a small clinic and some work on the routes.

Looking for guys that want to learn how and do more work in the future.
Cant do it all myself.

Any takers??
shame on mike white for thinking cracks shouldn't be bolted in the first place and shame on him for calling it like it is and hurting my feelings.

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Tenesmus
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Re: ASCA

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Oct 20, 2011 7:48 am

Depending on the assignments they give me I'd love to help

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boissal
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Re: ASCA

Postby boissal » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:15 am

Just throwing this out there: I'm not sure how much traffic Humane Society sees but I imagine it's somewhere in the vicinity of none at all.
Maybe some rebolting in Fergy is in order? Lots of heinous spinners and bolts hanging half out of their hole on routes that seem to get done a bunch. Easier access too... And we could address the missing pin situation?
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TheLumberjack
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Re: ASCA

Postby TheLumberjack » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:32 am

I'd be psyched to tag along Mike, I'll be swapping the gear all morning... I'll try and find ya.

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jonathan knight
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Re: ASCA

Postby jonathan knight » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:41 am

The Humane Society wall might actually see more traffic if it wasn't full of 5/16 hardware store bolts and shitty anchors. It's a problem that I've been hearing about for years. We could go across the street after the crag day wraps up around 4:30, Mike can do a clinic, and get some more help.

Alexi, I would do some work up in Ferguson especially if we knew the specifics. I don't know if the ASCA would fix new pins or replace them with bolts. That's a trickier situation. If we get out to look at the trail work today or tomorrow, we can look at some of the anchor issues.

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boissal
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Re: ASCA

Postby boissal » Thu Oct 20, 2011 10:56 am

jonathan knight wrote:The Humane Society wall might actually see more traffic if it wasn't full of 5/16 hardware store bolts and shitty anchors. It's a problem that I've been hearing about for years. We could go across the street after the crag day wraps up around 4:30, Mike can do a clinic, and get some more help.

Alexi, I would do some work up in Ferguson especially if we knew the specifics. I don't know if the ASCA would fix new pins or replace them with bolts. That's a trickier situation. If we get out to look at the trail work today or tomorrow, we can look at some of the anchor issues.

Anchors/bolts I ran into at HS were heinous for sure but I'm not sure updating the hardware would draw more people. That being said, the 10 parties that go up there every year would appreciate it.

I can call you regarding Fergy and go up tomorrow before or after work and take a look around. I can think of a few bolts (off the top of my head) that could be replaced. I don't know if it's any more justifiable than updating the HS hardware though, most are on routes that I'm sure see very little traffic. As for the pins, agreed, tough call. I think putting in bolts if there isn't natural gear nearby and the routes have become dangerous makes sense. I don't think it should be an ASCA thing though, they don't need their name on what can be regarded as retrobolting existing lines. I'd engrave a few hangers with my name and put the bolts in if we can get a number of people to chime in about it. I can make a list of routes that were affected and could use new hardware and discuss it here or on the SLCA bolt forum. If some of the routes are un-leadable in their present state it would make sense, screw the "you can always TR" argument.
Lemme know.

edit: Mike, if you do the rebolting after crag day is over I'll run up and help for sure.
Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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jonathan knight
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Re: ASCA

Postby jonathan knight » Thu Oct 20, 2011 11:08 am

Sounds good Alexi. I'd can go up there early tomorrow. Tomorrow evening will probably be kinda busy. Much thanks to you and Clay for being willing to lead groups on Saturday.

The bottom line is that Mike needs people that he trusts to uphold the ASCA standard and carry on with the never ending replacement of anchors.


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