What is this route

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mike k
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What is this route

Postby mike k » Wed May 21, 2008 12:07 pm

Whats up,

Yes. I'm new here.

I am new to the area, visiting for now, and moving out in August. I am moving from Boulder. I am freakin' psyched about the LCC granite (among other things), some of the lines here are stellar looking.

One of the lines in particular I see is on the south side of LCC across from Crescent Crack Buttress. I can't find the route anywhere on MP.com if it even is one. I KNOW people have talked about it before because its hard to miss. Its is a small left facing corner/flake that arches right, and looks like it is the sole natural line on the huge boulder, with a slab above it. The boulder has a few water streaks on it, and is slightly overhanging.

Alright let the nOOb ripping begin

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sevrdhed
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Postby sevrdhed » Wed May 21, 2008 1:14 pm

Ahh, yes, the infamous route. I've heard lots about it, but nobody seems to know what it is. I personally don't think there's even anchors on top of it, but everyone else seems to.

If you think you don't know what he's talking about, you do. Here it is:

Image

Anyone have any idea what the deal with that thing is?

P.S. Die noob. And if you don't, then clean up your fuggin tick marks.

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jun
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Postby jun » Wed May 21, 2008 1:33 pm

what do you mean there are no anchors?

you can see them right above where the crack ends on the slab. two dark lines? those are anchors son.

and that is the line i keep saying you and i should go aide. let's go.
Up, way up.

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sevrdhed
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Postby sevrdhed » Wed May 21, 2008 1:39 pm

Yeah, I know everyone THINKS they're anchors. But has anyone ever actually confirmed this? I mean, look at how many other dark streaks are on that wall, that are a similar size. Could just be a couple of LCC chickenheads.

Anyway, I wanna try that thing for sure. Looks stellar.

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grayhghost
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Postby grayhghost » Wed May 21, 2008 2:31 pm

nothing to see, move along now

longshanks
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Postby longshanks » Wed May 21, 2008 3:26 pm

Newbie Nation... I hiked up near the base of the route years ago.

Appeared steep and shorter (and wider) than I expected (aka hard).
I couldn've sworn I checked out the anchors via binocs (alzheimer confirmation).
Didn't those anchors appear within the last ten years?

-Newb born son.

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mike k
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Postby mike k » Wed May 21, 2008 3:29 pm

Yeah thats the one...the picture sure doesn't look like anchors, but from the road they actually do.

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db
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Postby db » Wed May 21, 2008 3:42 pm

Everyone has convenient amnesia. Those are anchors. But I'll tell you right now son -- unless your wingspan is wide, it's gonna be very burly.

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mike k
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Postby mike k » Wed May 21, 2008 3:49 pm

Longshanks says its wider than he expected, meaning what? Is there a crack in that corner?

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Over_the_hill
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Postby Over_the_hill » Wed May 21, 2008 3:56 pm

There are actually two routes up there. One is in that corner and has about six bolts. the other is on the right side, and has 5 bolts i believe.

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db
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Postby db » Wed May 21, 2008 4:03 pm

There are cracks (like in Indian Creek), and then there are cracks (like between two cheeks). That line is more like the latter.

longshanks
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Postby longshanks » Wed May 21, 2008 4:24 pm

Meaning I expected a head or rurp seam and instead saw a crack with potential decent pro- yes buttcrack-bottoming. My recollection...

Damn alzheimer's... yeah, convenient

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grayhghost
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Postby grayhghost » Wed May 21, 2008 4:34 pm

it is short
it is wide
it is bolted
it is grainy
it is dirty

We sparred once, alternately taking chunks out of each other


Give it a go, it is fun

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mike k
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Postby mike k » Wed May 21, 2008 4:44 pm

Sweet, sounds like a classic. I think I'll postpone my dawn patrol exploration mission until I've climbed everything else in the canyon.

Still, its pretty to look at and think of what it could be in 1000 years


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