The hook direct.

Moderator: Shaft

User avatar
Shaft
mullet baitfish
Posts: 2292
Joined: Mon Nov 18, 2002 1:27 pm
Location: Holladay
Contact:

The hook direct.

Postby Shaft » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:39 pm

After being dismayed at the quality of the user-contributed route database at rockcl1mbing.com I never thought it would work....that is until Mountainproject.com (mostly) proved me wrong. That said, what is up with:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/w ... /105741899

5.10c? How bad are the runouts?

User avatar
Tenesmus
Chupacabra
Posts: 1960
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 12:33 pm
Location: slc

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:37 am

Not as bad as the fall from MC's slab at 5 mile but you're a hell of a lot farther off the deck and between protection. (Its a clean fall, but a long one I wasn't about to take) The thing about a lot of those slabs is that you can't count the distance between bolts. Its the distance between the last bolt you clipped and the next stance you can clip from. And there is a really cool nut placement on it.

do the circuit. you'll be glad you did because if you just did Mind Blow (which has a very well protected crux followed by runnout easy climbing) the climbing on this is far easier.

Most of these slabs are boulder problems - you get mental rests all over the place.

edit - its .10a

User avatar
Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:02 pm

Re: The hook direct.

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:00 am

Shaft wrote:After being dismayed at the quality of the user-contributed route database at rockcl1mbing.com I never thought it would work....that is until Mountainproject.com (mostly) proved me wrong. That said, what is up with:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/w ... /105741899
5.10c? How bad are the runouts?


Only time I've done it, led it in '85, and swore I wouldn't do it again. Not hard, but, I thought at the time that the runouts were pretty severe, given especially the flakey loose nature of some of the holds. But, I was more of a friction hero back then, or at least thought I was.

I'd follow it!

Your lead, Shaft. Zen, baby, zen.

Drew's comment is pretty funny...but I can't decide if he's in big trouble or not...

Geez, by this weekend, will be too hot for friction in LCC in the sun...

Cheers,

-Brian in SLC
ps: its only 5.10a.
pss: who'd gonna drag me up knobs to gumbyland?
boissal wrote:Somebooody's smart balls need to be kicked all the way up the roof of his not so smart mouth.

User avatar
db
By all means, not a newbie
Posts: 220
Joined: Thu Mar 11, 2004 12:34 pm
Location: Wasatch Back
Contact:

Postby db » Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:27 am

Brian, I'm just looking for a good excuse to drink more beer :wink:

User avatar
Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:02 pm

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:17 am

db wrote:Brian, I'm just looking for a good excuse to drink more beer


Got to be a diminishing return there somewhere...

Stop by the Wing Coop in Olympus Hills and get the Black Diamond or hotter. Then, you'll need an excuse to NOT drink more beer...

My excuse lately has been Sierra Nevada, Devistator (tasty and a tech strong), Uinta Barley Wine, Left Hand, Acme....

Geez, I guess I've been in training for friction! Works for me...

-Brian in SLC
boissal wrote:Somebooody's smart balls need to be kicked all the way up the roof of his not so smart mouth.

User avatar
200#gorilla
Broseidon, King Of The Brocean
Posts: 3382
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2003 7:54 am
Location: little

Postby 200#gorilla » Thu Apr 10, 2008 10:50 am

this isn't run-out. I've been trying to top-rope this, but I bet you could lead it, shafty.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/wasatch_range/little_cottonwood_canyon/105741752?highlightphrase=littlefoot&

User avatar
grk10vq
Fully Gay (NTTIAWWT)
Posts: 3270
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:45 pm
Location: 84109
Contact:

thats a solid one to get.

Postby grk10vq » Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:21 pm

if we can get up there before it gets too warm 200, we should do littlefoot and one time at band camp.
like me on facebook

User avatar
triznut
T to the Rizzle
Posts: 495
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 11:49 am
Location: Wasatch
Contact:

Re: thats a solid one to get.

Postby triznut » Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:54 pm

grk10vq wrote:if we can get up there before it gets too warm 200, we should do littlefoot and one time at band camp.


Yeah, OTABC is a good one. Still a project of mine.... That other one sounds real good too. Slabmania!

User avatar
grk10vq
Fully Gay (NTTIAWWT)
Posts: 3270
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:45 pm
Location: 84109
Contact:

Postby grk10vq » Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:15 pm

join the party triscut.
like me on facebook

User avatar
triznut
T to the Rizzle
Posts: 495
Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2003 11:49 am
Location: Wasatch
Contact:

Postby triznut » Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:32 pm

grk10vq wrote:join the party triscut.


I'm always down for a good party! Just let me know...

User avatar
Tenesmus
Chupacabra
Posts: 1960
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 12:33 pm
Location: slc

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:09 pm

I did the hook direct in june and its not that bad.

I heard something that is really killer - otabc got its first winter ascent this year and it was supposed to be really good. That's kinda mind blowing to me.

User avatar
grk10vq
Fully Gay (NTTIAWWT)
Posts: 3270
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:45 pm
Location: 84109
Contact:

Postby grk10vq » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:33 pm

no bull donkey! i thought that rig would be under snow.
like me on facebook

User avatar
Tenesmus
Chupacabra
Posts: 1960
Joined: Fri May 09, 2003 12:33 pm
Location: slc

Postby Tenesmus » Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:08 am

edit - it IS under snow. What I meant to say is that Stiffler's was done all the way up to the top. Much more significant.

User avatar
grk10vq
Fully Gay (NTTIAWWT)
Posts: 3270
Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:45 pm
Location: 84109
Contact:

HOOK DIRECT.

Postby grk10vq » Wed Apr 23, 2008 10:13 pm

it went down.....

Image
like me on facebook

User avatar
boissal
Posts photos of pets on Facebook
Posts: 2119
Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 11:44 am

Postby boissal » Thu Apr 24, 2008 10:47 am

Shaft, I'll go send that rig with you this weekend if you haven't been on it yet
Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.


Return to “Routes”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron