Grandeur Peak

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naofumi
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Grandeur Peak

Postby naofumi » Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:55 am

What happened to the bolts on Grandeur? I was just up there looking for the routes and either me and my friend need new contacts or the bolts have been chopped.

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triznut
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Re: Grandeur Peak

Postby triznut » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:24 am

naofumi wrote:What happened to the bolts on Grandeur? I was just up there looking for the routes and either me and my friend need new contacts or the bolts have been chopped.


Are you talking about the Reef area? That place has bolts coming and going... Kinda of sucks..I like a couple of those short crimpy problems.

naofumi
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Postby naofumi » Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:04 pm

I just wonder why the bolts keep disappearing, it looked like there was some pretty sweet climbing.

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Brian in SLC
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Postby Brian in SLC » Wed Mar 12, 2008 8:48 am

naofumi wrote:I just wonder why the bolts keep disappearing, it looked like there was some pretty sweet climbing.


I dunno, but, my bet would be that some old school folk that have soloed those routes as tall boulder problems might be removing those bolts.

Used to boulder up there back in the mid 80's a tad. Fun spot. Was surprised that someone bolted those lines, though, since back then at least it was fairly common knowledge that the area was a bouldering spot. At least amongst some of the local climbers.

I do know of at least one older climber that lives near there (below in the neighborhood). Was never opposed to sport climbing, though, although that might have changed...

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jonathan knight
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Postby jonathan knight » Wed Mar 12, 2008 12:28 pm

The last time that bolts were removed someone said it was a guy that wanted to keep people away from the Elk herd. It seems like it would only affect their winter range, but the cliff is north facing so climbers wouldn't be there anyway. Drew Bedford, do you know anything about it?

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Re: Grandeur Peak

Postby triznut » Wed Mar 12, 2008 4:40 pm

triznut wrote:
naofumi wrote:What happened to the bolts on Grandeur? I was just up there looking for the routes and either me and my friend need new contacts or the bolts have been chopped.


Are you talking about the Reef area? That place has bolts coming and going... Kinda of sucks..I like a couple of those short crimpy problems.


Bouldering those lines is a good idea... Cool to get a little history on the area.

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Postby JimG » Thu Mar 13, 2008 2:10 pm

naofumi, which area are you talking about on Granduer Peak. I personally do not care much for the climbing there and it has been several years since I have done any of those routes, but I go running up there all the time, so I went by and checked out the routes today. All the lead bolts and chains are in place at the Reef; it is impossible to miss them, so I suspect you were not at the Reef. A couple of the lines just have the bolt studs and you would need to replace hangers and nuts, but as I recall those lines have been like that for years; I think they are listed as projects in the Ruckman guide. There are a couple of easier lines on the buttress of rock about 100 yards uphill from the Reef and the bolts are still there. There are 2-3 crappy little routes in the "Quarry" down the hill and those still have lead bolts and anchors. I went over to the top of the slabs in Parleys; I didn't want to go down the muddy trail to the base of the cliffs but the long 5.8 to the top of the cliff still has chains and at least of couple of bolts. Not sure where you are talking about on Grandeur, but everything I know of looks the same as it has for years. Oh, and the rock at the Reef is just as sharp as it ever was; I was reminded of why I never cared for that place. Toughen up those pads if you are planning to climb there.

naofumi
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Postby naofumi » Thu Mar 13, 2008 3:17 pm

JimG wrote:naofumi, which area are you talking about on Granduer Peak. I personally do not care much for the climbing there and it has been several years since I have done any of those routes, but I go running up there all the time, so I went by and checked out the routes today. All the lead bolts and chains are in place at the Reef; it is impossible to miss them, so I suspect you were not at the Reef. A couple of the lines just have the bolt studs and you would need to replace hangers and nuts, but as I recall those lines have been like that for years; I think they are listed as projects in the Ruckman guide. There are a couple of easier lines on the buttress of rock about 100 yards uphill from the Reef and the bolts are still there. There are 2-3 crappy little routes in the "Quarry" down the hill and those still have lead bolts and anchors. I went over to the top of the slabs in Parleys; I didn't want to go down the muddy trail to the base of the cliffs but the long 5.8 to the top of the cliff still has chains and at least of couple of bolts. Not sure where you are talking about on Grandeur, but everything I know of looks the same as it has for years. Oh, and the rock at the Reef is just as sharp as it ever was; I was reminded of why I never cared for that place. Toughen up those pads if you are planning to climb there.


Yeah it turned out we were on the wrong side of the Reef...... well it was a nice first hike for the season.

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samg
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Postby samg » Thu Mar 13, 2008 4:45 pm

naofumi wrote:I just wonder why the bolts keep disappearing, it looked like there was some pretty sweet climbing.


Looks like some good potential then... Last time I hiked up there I saw some good potential stuff higher up on the other side too.

James Garrett says on MP that he has done a newer route higher up there but I don't know where it is or what side of the formation it's on.
Last edited by samg on Tue Mar 18, 2008 4:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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db
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Postby db » Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:55 am

No clue.

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grk10vq
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KUDOS TO JIMG FOR SCOPE'N OUT EVERYTHING.

Postby grk10vq » Fri Mar 14, 2008 9:11 am

naofumi wrote:Yeah it turned out we were on the wrong side of the Reef.

looks like you and your friends need new contacts.
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