traditional utah photography

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mb
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Postby mb » Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:32 pm

What route is that grk? I see some draws on the side.

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grk10vq
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Postby grk10vq » Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:36 pm

good eyes home slice.

long winded description headed to your inbox.
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sevrdhed
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Postby sevrdhed » Mon Apr 28, 2008 3:17 pm

weschrist wrote:Damn, that looks grungy. A summer in Squamish really screws up your perspective on acceptable routes. You blew any psyche I had for doing routes in LC.


Sorry, don't you live here?

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LCC is lookin better and better.

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weschrist
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Postby weschrist » Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:00 pm

sevrdhed wrote:Sorry, don't you live here?


ah, if you only knew where I lived...
"The point is, you see, that there is no point in driving yourself mad trying to stop yourself going mad. You might just as well give in and save your sanity for later." FP

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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Mon Apr 28, 2008 10:11 pm

weschrist wrote:
sevrdhed wrote:Sorry, don't you live here?


ah, if you only knew where I lived...


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grk10vq
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helmet required. photo by BS

Postby grk10vq » Tue Apr 29, 2008 4:44 pm

a friend once told me there were thirty-three "m's" in the word commitment.

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i think i counted about ninety-eight between here and the next bolt.
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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:04 pm

nice send. It amazes me people get freaked out by the first runnout but not the boulder problem above you in that photo. Maybe its easier if you're not so gigantor or something.

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grk10vq
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Postby grk10vq » Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:07 pm

Tenesmus wrote:nice send. It amazes me people get freaked out by the first runnout but not the boulder problem above you in that photo. Maybe its easier if you're not so gigantor or something.

possibly. i swear its the next 12 feet that might put you in the hospital?

taking off:

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db
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Postby db » Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:05 pm

Bill was a bold lad. Couldn't open a twist-off beer, but bold.

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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Wed Apr 30, 2008 7:58 am

nice additions to the gallery.

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crackroach
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Postby crackroach » Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:50 am

I get freaked out by the first run out because if you blow it, there's a decent chance you'll die. Just me of course.

I've actually fallen off the moves by the chicken head. If you jump back, it's actually not that bad of a fall.

Skyman
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Postby Skyman » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:20 am

Are you guy's looping that big chickenhead? Paranoia streak is a great climb. I love that crack above the chickenheads. I haven't done it for about ten years though. I used to have a thin piece of perlon just for that climb.

Hey Drew, it was good seeing you on Sunday.

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db
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Postby db » Wed Apr 30, 2008 10:37 am

A really good variation is to go up Paranoia, then stay on the black streak for a couple more bolts like you were going to do Koyaanisqatsi. After some really fun mid-11 face climbing on good holds, you clip the bolt before the Koyaanisqatsi crux (run away!) and exit left on face holds to the Paranoia belay. Makes it a clip-up with some great face moves and no crack climbing -- not like it's a bad thing. A canyon classic.

Good to see you too Kyle. PM me your email. We'll get you into the golf-makes-you-climb-harder foursomes :wink:

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grk10vq
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maybe ten years ago...

Postby grk10vq » Wed Apr 30, 2008 1:35 pm

Skyman wrote:Are you guy's looping that big chickenhead?

actually, i use a piece of scotch tape there. it works just as well.
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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Wed Apr 30, 2008 8:40 pm

see, this is why this place is so cool. Never would have considered looping the chickenhead but that's a great idea. Never would have considered climbing up and then back left. That face climbing below the crack is 20 feet of lcc's best and anything that would extend that is worth doing.

thanks.


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