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Rebolting and future work in lcc - Utahclimbers.com

Rebolting and future work in lcc

Moderator: Shaft

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monkey
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Rebolting and future work in lcc

Postby monkey » Sat Mar 31, 2007 8:05 pm

I would like to apologise to uc.com but I would like to move the dicussion about lcc bolting issues to a local site. Lets keep all of our bullshit
out of the national eye. Can we please give mtnproject.com their site
back. The tone of the dicussions have changed and I hope they will remain civil. We had a meeting last night and it went veary well. The next meeting will be at my house so we can hear everyone.

thanks
mike white
asca

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Postby Tenesmus » Sat Mar 31, 2007 8:54 pm

I thought they liked the drama...

it was nice to get aquainted a little better with everyone.

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Postby monkey » Sat Mar 31, 2007 9:32 pm


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Re: Rebolting and future work in lcc

Postby Shaft » Sat Mar 31, 2007 11:40 pm


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project

Postby monkey » Mon Apr 02, 2007 4:49 pm

Planning on doing some rebolting this weekend if anybody wants to help out.

mike

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Postby Shaft » Mon Apr 02, 2007 10:28 pm

Mike,

Nice to see you tonight. Do me a favor, next time you have a meeting like the other night, let me know and I will spread the word.

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Postby Tenesmus » Sat Apr 07, 2007 10:54 pm


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rebolting

Postby monkey » Sun Apr 08, 2007 12:09 pm


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Postby etrier » Sun Apr 08, 2007 6:45 pm


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Intensive Care

Postby jonathan knight » Mon Apr 09, 2007 5:21 pm

There has been a bit of a flap over changes to Intensive Care recently:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/northe ... /105931396

I got a chance to check it out yesterday, and if I didn't know any better, I'd say the bolts make sense, and are of high quality. It is difficult to determine which bolts are new as the route has two types of bolts. There are a handful of 1/2" rawls and all the rest are 3/8" stainless studs with fixe hangers. The ones in question are most likely from the 3/8" batch.


This is th 4th bolt on the first pitch. It is clipped while standing on the last chicken head about 10 feet below the ledge with the anchor. If this is new, it definitely changes the nature of the pitch. You are run out at this point with one more section of grainy slab-fu before groping the ledge while looking at a 40 footer.



Looking back down at the top of the first pitch.



This shot is looking down at the 5 bolts on the second pitch. From the topo in the Ruckman guide, I would guess that the 4th bolt is the new one. At that point, the crux is over and the climbing is relatively easy up to the fifth. This would be the biggest run on the route without the 4th bolt.

Maybe this will jog some memories. It is still a spicy route, and the work was well done. Is the guide book correct? Could the re-bolter not help diddling with it? I know that the first ascentionists were not contacted.

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Postby crackroach » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:34 am


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Postby mb » Tue Apr 10, 2007 11:50 am


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Postby price1869 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 3:58 pm

12 fans, the exact number of dudes still posting on this chossy website.

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Postby price1869 » Tue Apr 10, 2007 4:10 pm

12 fans, the exact number of dudes still posting on this chossy website.

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Postby jonathan knight » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:16 pm



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