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The Flakes - East Gate - Utahclimbers.com

The Flakes - East Gate

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The Flakes - East Gate

Postby Tenesmus » Sat Oct 29, 2005 10:30 am


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speednat
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Postby speednat » Sat Oct 29, 2005 11:04 am

Climb safe

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Postby bsmoot » Sat Oct 29, 2005 2:10 pm

This might not help, but there is a photo of it in my old guidebook. If you look straight right from the top of Tingey's Terror, you will see a series of beautiful flakes on the east side of the Gate Buttress.

You need to take the approach to Tingey's Terror. Instead of traversing left from the gully, continue diagonalling up thru trees for a while to a slab split by a clean sharp edged fist crack. This is the first pitch. above here you'll see The Flakes. This is one of the best crack pitches in the canyon...well worth the approach.

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Flakes

Postby Dave Budge » Sat Oct 29, 2005 2:35 pm

You can scramble up the ledge systems above the boulder problem that guards the approach to Beckey's and Cheetah. I prefer this approach to going up past Graying at the Routes as described in the Ruckman guide. This will take you up above the lower East Gate routes like Snowflakes and Speed of Life. From here you can choose your route up to Flakes. I recommend the 10d that starts with a leftward traverse and continues on to a cool slab arete. The bottom of Flakes is on a ramp which affords a good view of the route. You can't miss it.

If after that you are feeling frisky you have several good options. Wild Things is crazy. The flaring bomb-bay is wild indeed and the initial crack is good but steeeeep. Take tape.

Or, you can easily toprope the routes on the lower East Gate. These are generally fantastic. Speed of Life is nice to TR first as the finish approaches groundfall potential, although I never fell to test the possiblity (by the way, its one of the coolest granite routes ever). Graying at the Routes can be TR'd with a directional (black Metolius, I think) in the crack above its topout and the rope through the anchors above Speed of Life.

Good luck, have fun. The East Gate is home to some of the coolest routes in the Wasatch.
"The consciousness of self is the biggest hinderance in the execution of any physical activity" - Bruce Lee

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Postby Tenesmus » Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:14 pm


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Postby Tenesmus » Sat Oct 29, 2005 3:33 pm

Does show part of the route - or at least something right by it?

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Postby db » Sat Oct 29, 2005 4:20 pm

Basically from the top of the last red line pitch, if you look right to the skyline, you're looking at the Flakes. The scrub oak filled gulley to the right of Tarzan/Tingeys is the approach. When you get up there it is easy to spot the route--it's the left-facing flake system that looks like it ought to be in Yosemite. Do something else while you're up there. It's a long approach for one route.

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Postby Tenesmus » Sat Oct 29, 2005 7:19 pm


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Postby db » Sat Oct 29, 2005 8:53 pm


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Postby Tenesmus » Sun Oct 30, 2005 3:52 pm


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Postby etrier » Sun Oct 30, 2005 9:13 pm


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Postby Tenesmus » Thu Nov 03, 2005 9:54 pm


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Postby storm » Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:03 am


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Postby Tenesmus » Sun Nov 06, 2005 1:39 pm



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