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GEAR ALERT - Utahclimbers.com

GEAR ALERT

Moderator: Shaft

GOlsen
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GEAR ALERT

Postby GOlsen » Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:05 pm


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Brian in SLC
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Re: GEAR ALERT

Postby Brian in SLC » Fri Oct 21, 2005 4:48 pm


sp
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Postby sp » Fri Oct 21, 2005 6:03 pm


GOlsen
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Postby GOlsen » Fri Oct 21, 2005 8:37 pm


sp
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Postby sp » Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:06 pm


carpe diem
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Postby carpe diem » Sat Oct 22, 2005 12:51 pm

More happy bolt thoughts for your lead head.

Rusty bolts (especially in limestone because it seeps from the inside out) should be considered suspect. If the metals used in the setup (the hanger, nut, washers, etc.) are of even slightly different materials this will encourage corrosion (galvanic corrosion). When you have a good bolt everything is secure and tight. Once you introduce corrosion into the equation, the corrosion byproducts (rust) increase the stress on the bolt in the same way that water freezing in a crack causes expansion and increases stress on the rock. So a bolt that is corroding (even if it's just the washer) can have stress cracks caused by the corrosion byproducts even though there is not an apparent loss of integrity due to the physical deterioration of the bolt through corrosion.

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Brian in SLC
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Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:19 am


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Postby MikeA » Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:03 am


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db
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Postby db » Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:37 am


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Brian in SLC
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Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:53 am


GOlsen
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Postby GOlsen » Wed Oct 26, 2005 10:25 pm


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Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Nov 14, 2005 2:28 pm


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Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Nov 14, 2005 6:09 pm

Here's the picture:


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trashman
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Postby trashman » Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:02 am

that picture makes me very happy that i live in a desert environment, forgot the kind of stuff people east of the mississippi have to climb.

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Postby GOlsen » Tue Nov 15, 2005 1:08 pm

That is really freakin bizarre! I dont remember the length of the bolt but I am pretty sure it was 3". I bought a Bosch about then, but I also remember hand drilling some routes. Generally that rock is pretty good, however, I also thought about placing some baby angles in the stuff sometimes. Here is something interesting about that route.

The first route I did in Cave Creek involved some overhanging moves right off the deck and I placed quite a few bolts down low so people wouldnt deck. Someone didnt like that and they removed the first bolt. whatever....On the Beast where this bolt was located, I thought fine, you wont be pulling any bolts off this sucker. I may have purposefully ran it out to the first bolt. Then 12 years later some poor dude decks and gets hurt. In my old age I am more inclined to make the sport routes safe and it would not hurt my feelings if a couple more bolts were added to that route.

People are to willing to trust their lives to one bolt. Working routes should be done with safety in mind.

BTW, was that your first time to Arkansas Brian? It is really a pretty cool place.


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