Utahclimbers.com

I am looking for some C1 or C2 aid routes in LCC. It seems like there might be some good stuff on Black Peeler, but I wanted to get the input of the community as to where to start.

leejensen:

Here are some thoughts:

Easy Aid

- Coffin Crack & Roof pitch
- Bong Eater
- Tick Fever
- Equipment Overhang Left

Medium Aid

- Peeler Direct (all 4 pitches)
- Stratosphere
- Fallen Arches
- Trinity Left
- Prowser

Thanks Brian. That is just what I was looking for. I hadn't considered doing common free climbing routes like the coffin, because I didn't want to block up the route while I aided up it for an hour. However, the weather is cold enough now that perhaps that isn't a problem. I really wanted to practice cleaning overhangs and traverses and so the coffin roof seems like a good choice. I guess Schoolroom roof would also be good if the pins were still all in place.

BTW I just bought your old Wasatch guide. The pictures alone are classic, not to mention some great topos. Very well put together book.

cold enough? this is temporary, for the most part, we're in prime climbing season. just a note to be courteous, alot of brian's suggestions are in good free climbing shape for the first time since this spring.

some more options for roofs/traverses

Eve traverse is supposed to go clean now a days
I've heard the bolts on the boulder across from the gate parking are set up as a ladder, looks like a cool little roof.
i'll second the recomendation for peeler direct. not too bad, and the third pitch has some great terrain to practice cleaning traverses.

not sure about the difficulty, or weather or not it goes clean, but there are some great looking caves over on the water front, Golden Gate is listed in the wasatch guide, but w/ an A, not a C

Boomerang, up by Plumbline traverses quite a bit, as does Gravity's rainbow. not sure about the later, but you could definately do Boomerang clean, just be careful, it traverses a lot, and it's not too high off the ground.

I know a dude who hiked up in the evening and set up his portaledge on both Coffin and Sasquatch to spend the night. Of all the climbs in the canyon to spend the night on... And then he wondered why folks got mad when it was occupied the next morning.

Trashman makes a great point. If its possible, try a one or less star climbs - or go when its raining or something.

Stuff on the Peeler doesn't get done nearly as often - neither does the stuff on the East Gate. (where many routes traverse)

conditions can be key. i think you'd be fine most of the summer on the trinities or arches, but now is probably the best time all year to get on them for free climbers.

Spring is another great time to aid these lines b/c they tend to seep until june most years. cams hold fine in wet cracks, but fingers tend to lose a little grip .

Doesn't really help w/ ideas right now, but something to keep in mind for future reference

Some of the same route characteristics of a classic free climb also often make routes appealing for clean aid: clean line, continuity, good stone, etc.

Learning clean aid is just as valid as ticking a free route. Definately get on the free routes mentioned. Avoid them if you can on evenings or weekends, but most evenings you don't see people on the Coffin roof, the Trinities, or Fallen Arches anyway. So, I say go for it. Its better to do something and risk having to say you're sorry (or bail) than never get it done because you didn't want to step on toes (I am not recommending antisocial behavior, just be assertive but considerate).

Ultimately, we all climb for similar reasons. Assuming that all parties involved are courteous and thoughtful, I can't imagine you will have any problems.

Nothing like a rainy day to get the online forums bursting with posts.

To put all your worries to rest. Nobody needs to worry about me camping out for hours in my aiders halfway up a popular free climb. I am just looking for some practice and would only do a two or three star is I was sure I wouldn't get in anyones way. Although spending the night on the coffin does sound like fun. Do you think if I waited until the 31st that the coffin might open up at midnight? Or perhaps I could set up my ledge and hand out candy to passing climbers. Put your orders in now. Full size snicker bars anyone?

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Bong Eater Beta

http://www.utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1133

Coffin Beta

http://www.utahclimbers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1068

Are you soloing or would you like company?

Carl ...

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Climb On Safely

Thanks Lee,

In my opinion, you have just as much of a right to climb on the coffin as any free climber. Spending an hour clean-aiding a popular free climb any time of the day or season is no different than a group of 3 or 4 beginners toproping the Coffin or the Green A for 2 or 3 hours.

It's good to hear that you're willing to practice a lot of aid before sending a big wall. You'll find it much more enjoyable...Big walls are awesome.

in response to the gimp, and to play devil's advocate here, i'd say there are some differences. while good stone overall is appreciated by both free and aid climbers, i'd say the 1 and 2 star terrain matters less for the aid climber.

i say this because a continuous feature is the main requirement for aid climbing, gravely feet(bloodline, boomerang) make free climbing a bit spicy, but rarely affect someone in slings. i'm certainly not denying that coffin roof, trinites etc are great clean aid lines, just trying to add another perspective and more options

Trashman, point taken.

However, to play the devil's advocate's devil's advocate , I still think that the 3-star free routes make for very enjoyable clean aid outings. In fact, they are probably the safest routes on which to learn aid. To echo what bsmoot said, clean aid climbers have the same prerogative to spend time on a given piece of stone as anyone else. Free or aid, it's all climbing as long as you don't damage the rock or other's experience.

Cheers.

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"The consciousness of self is the biggest hinderance in the execution of any physical activity" - Bruce Lee