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That photo is fucking killer!

I like the watch (as I think to myself, would I crack climb at IC with my watch on?).

Thats one sweet piece of...wait-a-minute...(I'm thinkin' vintage Jerry here, not Homer, for period correctness)...

I think ChrisT does his socks like that - maybe its your combined secret.

Lance Bateman and Ben Folsom have been working on a route that follows a dihedral to the right of Fins and Needles. They have a project up at the Peeler as well. I checked out the corner in the Green A, and I know of at least one other that has inspected it. Hard to know where to start on that one, but it begs to get done. Seems like something STFU could do if he wanted. Storm, there is some energy for LCC testpieces but it pales compared to what goes on in the boulders.

Is it true that you bolted "Life by the Throat" in such a way as to discourage hangdogging? That route is my nomination for retro-bolting. It could be a fun route.

How about a sequence of db photos, so we can track the changing styles all the way to the present? I remember a good one from the old IME. (I think there was a mullet involved.) It might be the next in the series.

Here, here!

Never heard that one before – not true! Why would it need rebolting, is it the placements or runout that’s the issue? I placed the corner bolt (maybe that is the one in question) as to keep it away from my feet, and to manage the rope. If you clip it with two binners (without qd) – the old fashion way – it keeps the rope off that sharp corner and away from your feet as you turn. I didn’t put a bolt higher because it is just one more hard move to the lip and a total air-fall below. I always loved that route, unique moves, good rock, and close to prowser and bong eater. Stuart Ruckman came an inch away from on-sighting it, ripping at the last move …

What about Birdland (Ripcurl) – does anyone ever do that route? I had a lot of reservations about how to fix pro on it. It was also a huge psychological nemesis to me – long story there.

Re: pictures. I have a couple thousand LCC/BCC and Indian Creek slides from the eighties - I’ll work on scanning some and put them in the gallery.

Photos would be awesome!

I hear Ripcurl gets done occasionally, but I never got on it. It's a wierd one to do because it's south facing. It seems like it's either dripping wet, or it's hotter than a snake's ass in a wagon rut. There's probably a 2 week window in the fall when it's do-able, and that's when all of us sportos are in St. George these days.

hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut!!!! funny shit

That's from the movie "Good Morning Vietnam", but nobody ever seems to pick up on the reference.

It has been a while, so I'll have to re-visit with a different mind. I did replace the anchor on Koyaanisqatsi a couple of years ago. It had suffered in that water streak.

Time fades some memories, but I distinctly remember John drilling Life by the Throat with an eye toward "dog-proofing" it. Seems funny now, but it was that transitional time where rap bolting was somewhat ok, but hang-dogging was still something to avoid. Don't worry Johnathan, we'll go move that bolt before the overlap.

Guess that explains where the rumor came from – Drew’s faded memory After all, that lycra was pretty tight back then…

But really, it’s not true … I may have been sadistic but I wasn’t cruel, or was it the other way around? And if you think hang dogging it on lead is hard, try doing it on top rope. I can remember taking some great swings every time I came off the step up move.

True, but I'm not the only one who suffered hyper lycra testicular hypertrophy. And don't use the "I didn't inhale" line either.

Thats a comfy looking harness