Tea wrote:Hi Clay,
not to be a buzz kill...But I remember a guy I use to know, talking about climbing the left flake in the early 2000's. Possibly the right side as well.
Let me see if I can solidify this though. His words were "we lead a bunch of variations to the flakes. They were dirty but had to have been climbed before us".
more info to follow. Cool looking routes!
Well duh!! We thought the same thing. Its cool to know at least someone else has for sure been thinking, "These cracks are dirty and surely someone has climbed them before us!" Actually, it would have been burly to climb the right line as it was. It would have been possible as there are some hard men and women out there. But it was soo flakey and the brush in the corner was gnarly. The one on the left is much more likely to have been climbed as it was far cleaner. Tenuous traversing left on dissipating underclings to a cool crossover move. Then you're in it. Easy to protect but a little spooky. Naturally enticing
For me, this re-emphasizes the coolness of lines without fixed gear. How awesome is it to have a line that is just rock. No signs of passage. The next climbers who come up to it wonder if its been done, get psyched about and then do the thing. After, the are left asking the same question: "Surely someone has climbed this before?"
Weschrist (I think?) wrote something about Red Rocks a few years ago, saying how these guys were going all over Red Rocks, having a hell of a time climbing all these natural lines. Sometimes thinking there was no way anyone had ever been there and then finding a random piton or bail station. No need to spray or report (like we just did!) The joy of it was the pure adventure of seeing a line, walking up to it and just making it happen. How many times have lines in Ferguson been soloed and then unwittingly retro'd?
Since we know we weren't the first (I assume at least for the left crack) then obviously put the FA of your friend or 'unknown'. Seems like we have no claim to name it. Maybe 'Flakes Left' is better than the name we came up with anyway? I do like Brian's name for the right crack because it is like a badder version of Mexican.
edit to say: Tea, did you do the art on your avatar?