Wasatch History

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Tenesmus
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Re: Wasatch History

Postby Tenesmus » Tue Nov 30, 2010 8:17 pm

Tea wrote:Hi Clay,

not to be a buzz kill...But I remember a guy I use to know, talking about climbing the left flake in the early 2000's. Possibly the right side as well.

Let me see if I can solidify this though. His words were "we lead a bunch of variations to the flakes. They were dirty but had to have been climbed before us".

more info to follow. Cool looking routes!

cheers
t

Well duh!! We thought the same thing. Its cool to know at least someone else has for sure been thinking, "These cracks are dirty and surely someone has climbed them before us!" Actually, it would have been burly to climb the right line as it was. It would have been possible as there are some hard men and women out there. But it was soo flakey and the brush in the corner was gnarly. The one on the left is much more likely to have been climbed as it was far cleaner. Tenuous traversing left on dissipating underclings to a cool crossover move. Then you're in it. Easy to protect but a little spooky. Naturally enticing

For me, this re-emphasizes the coolness of lines without fixed gear. How awesome is it to have a line that is just rock. No signs of passage. The next climbers who come up to it wonder if its been done, get psyched about and then do the thing. After, the are left asking the same question: "Surely someone has climbed this before?"

Weschrist (I think?) wrote something about Red Rocks a few years ago, saying how these guys were going all over Red Rocks, having a hell of a time climbing all these natural lines. Sometimes thinking there was no way anyone had ever been there and then finding a random piton or bail station. No need to spray or report (like we just did!) The joy of it was the pure adventure of seeing a line, walking up to it and just making it happen. How many times have lines in Ferguson been soloed and then unwittingly retro'd?

Since we know we weren't the first (I assume at least for the left crack) then obviously put the FA of your friend or 'unknown'. Seems like we have no claim to name it. Maybe 'Flakes Left' is better than the name we came up with anyway? I do like Brian's name for the right crack because it is like a badder version of Mexican.

Any votes?

edit to say: Tea, did you do the art on your avatar?

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Tea
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Re: Wasatch History

Postby Tea » Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:03 pm

"For me, this re-emphasizes the coolness of lines without fixed gear. How awesome is it to have a line that is just rock. No signs of passage."

These are the best FA's in my opinion. So cool when it can go down like that...especially in this day and age.

And hey Ten...I surely wasn't trying to piss on the parade float...just tossing it out there that I had heard rumors of them being done prior. They sure look fun, and good on you guys for the clean up.

cheers
I could agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong.

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Tenesmus
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Re: Wasatch History

Postby Tenesmus » Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:09 pm

Didn't take any offense at all. I'm still (far
    too obviously) geeking out on how much fun those finger cracks are.

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    sfotex
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby sfotex » Tue Nov 13, 2012 7:27 am

    Image

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    boissal
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby boissal » Tue Nov 13, 2012 10:12 am

    Love that book. Shaft, you have a copy right?
    Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

    mountainsense
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby mountainsense » Tue Nov 13, 2012 11:21 am

    Bill Robins, No Star Tuesday Honorary Member.

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    BackClip
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby BackClip » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:04 pm

    The funny thing is. How many no star Bill Robbins routes actually kick ass? Ducks in Bondage is 3 stars all day long, but gets none in the book. Now we just need to remove the convience anchor TC installed AT THE CRUX to honor the bitchin, commiting, slab climbing above. Viva Robbins!
    "Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

    mountainsense
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby mountainsense » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:17 pm

    Last year, we were curious and so decided to traverse the lower canyon, from the Memorial Day east to the Pawn. It's mind-boggling all the crags Bill Robins got to, especially up high, and--more impressive--the lines he opened, no doubt in good style. Perhaps in the future, we might all agree on how to re-equip his proud ascents, as many of the original 1/4"ers do not inspire the same confidence in the contemporary climber as they once did for bold Mr. Robins. RESPECT.

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    BackClip
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby BackClip » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:26 pm

    I agree with you. Those old 1/4" ers don't inspire. And I appreciate TC replacing the old ones....however, to install another bolt next to the crux bolt and make a convience anchor is spitting in the face of a TRUE LCC pioneer.

    Edited: Thats a hell of a walk Shingo!
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    mountainsense
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby mountainsense » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:41 pm

    LCC is NOT climbed out; I have the pics to prove it! S

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    BackClip
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby BackClip » Tue Nov 13, 2012 12:48 pm

    mountainsense wrote:LCC is NOT climbed out; I have the pics to prove it! S


    :) please share ! :)
    "Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

    tanderson
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby tanderson » Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:26 am

    Please show us these pics!!!! If you dare!!!!

    Skyman
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby Skyman » Sat Nov 17, 2012 3:21 pm

    BackClip wrote:I agree with you. Those old 1/4" ers don't inspire. And I appreciate TC replacing the old ones....however, to install another bolt next to the crux bolt and make a convience anchor is spitting in the face of a TRUE LCC pioneer.

    Edited: Thats a hell of a walk Shingo!


    Not to get too off topic, but what is the purpose of tubular webbing around the chains on some of the new TC rappel chains? Like the new ones we found on the top of schoolroom. Interesting new bolted line on that rap. I've seen a few now.

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    ZOSO
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby ZOSO » Sat Nov 17, 2012 6:38 pm

    2 reasons:
    1. The webbing helps to hold onto moisture longer and aid in corroding the link.
    2. And it hides any problems with the link from your view. Outta sight, outta mind.

    Pure brilliance.

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    BackClip
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    Re: Wasatch History

    Postby BackClip » Fri Nov 30, 2012 8:35 am

    ah shit, what did I miss? deleted post???? Got the notification in the inbox, but no new post..
    "Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"


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