Thanks Brian. I do think Wheels and Mugs did a route in Zion. I have all of my old climbing mags in storage or I could sift through and see if it was reported there. I must add to this thread that my historical perspective of the Wasatch is only from the late 70's to late 80's, about a decade where the biggest thing that came into being was Sport climbing. There are many other people out there who know a lot more than I do. When I started climbing the guide Wasatch Granite by Dave Smith had just some out. The other book that was out was Desperate Grace by Dennis Turville. Les Ellison was the most prolific new route sender and he and Brian wrote Wasatch Rock Climbs, that covered the new routes on the granite. The first two books had used the old F-rating scheme.
Here is an excerpt from the Smith guide:
Dont use Aid on Free Routes
The majority of the routes covered in this guide are free. There are very few aid routes on the Granite. The use of aid on a free route indicates the climber is not personally able to meet the challenge of the climb....If you can't do a free route without aid, you don't belong on it.
Interesting. We as climbers pretend that there are no rules and it would seem that there should be more rules today thatn there were then; however, I do believe that we had more strict ethics back then. But what the hell am I saying, it was my generation that started rapp bolting. Sorry, there is already an ethics conversation going, not to diverge, but I think that the guide books present a certain flavor for the area and the 1977 guide was really down on aid and pins.
Of particluar note in the Smith guide was getting down on folks who pounded on the Green A. Apparently this was a popular route to pound pins on and it took quite a bit of cajoling in those days to avoid pounding pins. Smith indicates that he put a fixed pin on the green A because most parties placed their own. In those days they had small straight sided stoppers and not the advacned micro nuts of today.
The other thing that is taken for granted is the use of chalk. I remember bouldering at the Gate in the 70's and Dennis Turville walking by afterr climbing. I of course had chalk alll over me...Turville to his buddies, "See, you can't even boulder anymore without chalk!"
Anyway, I am working on some other stuff from that era. Somebody else ought to take a break and stretch their fingers byt ponying up....