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Broads Fork Twin Peaks - Utahclimbers.com

Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Moderator: Shaft

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denny
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Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby denny » Sun Apr 15, 2012 4:40 pm

Whats up friends and fellow climbers! I am putting a trip together to climb Twin Peaks. I would welcome any company if anybody wanted to come along. I am wondering if any of you have experience climbing Twin Peaks this time of year. I am planning on hiking in to the beaver ponds in Broads Forks and camping the first night April 27th. We plan to get up early and ascend to the peak of Twin Peaks. Any recommendations on the best route, snow conditions, avalanche dangers? Am I biting off more than I can chew climbing this peak this time of the year?

I hiked in three years ago and it was a big snow year, didn't feel it was safe so we called it a fun overnight hike and didnt attempt the summit. I really want to bag this peak with all the snow but I want to do it safely.


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Brian in SLC
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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby Brian in SLC » Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:00 pm

Much quicker approach up Tanners.

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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby TheLumberjack » Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:30 am

Tanners may be a touch faster - you would want a solid freeze at night and then sprint up very early in the morning (might want 'pons depending on the headwall condition). The col farthest lookers left in your photo is the entrance from Tanners (in case you didn't know).

Sounds like you want to spend a couple days in the wood. Camping at the ponds would be rad. The traderoute for skiers from the ponds is to follow the rightside of the main drainage finally gaining the col to the immediate lookers left of the Twin in your photo. Does that make any sense? Much of the route can't be seen from this vantage, but it's really quite straight forward.

From there you take the ridegline to the summit. There is a small rock crux if you stay on the ridge. It's not a very big deal - maybe easy 5th class, but it feels scary in ski boots (an axe or whippet would alievate some stress)! Alternatively, you can bust around the rock onto the southish face and up a mini-chute - which takes longer than it looks. That obviously would be a bad idea in wet slide conditions. If you're on skis every aspect of that mountain has a totally bitchin' ski run off of it depending on conditions... the north and east faces are the most pracitcal this year. The sure bet is a NE shot that's obvious on the approach. It starts from down the north ridge a bit from the East summit. Here's a photo of the ridge (stolen from Molly):



Not a great beta photo, but the 'rock crux' is about halfway up the ridge. It will be quite obvious when you get there, the alternative traverse is maybe 100' (?) downhill from the point.

Hope you get the right conditions/weather for your trip! Bring the headlamp and start/get down early no matter what route you choose!

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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby denny » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:51 am

The picture is Totally bitch'n! Really like the photo.

I am pretty nervous about avalanche conditions and the recent snow we have gotten. You gave a great route description and information that will be very helpful. Any estimation on how long it may take to summit from the beaver ponds? Is it best to hike on past the ponds and camp way up the drainage on the left side in the trees?

I wish i was a skier but that is a skill I have never picked up and I am afraid my knees and body wouldn't hold up at this point learning how. I was planning on pulling my gear behind me using a toboggan and sliding out on the lower slopes and glissading on the steeper stuff.

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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby Brian in SLC » Tue Apr 17, 2012 9:26 am


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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby denny » Thu Apr 19, 2012 11:42 am


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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby denny » Mon Apr 30, 2012 9:18 am

I think most people who are climbing peaks are in much better shape than I am. I need to train harder and work on my knees and legs allot more. I know now it was a bad idea trying to camp out. Hauling the extra gear and taking stuff i didn't need made my pack heavy. I wore out my legs the night before hiking to the camp spot. The night was cold, the ground was hard. We didn't get up early like I planned. I think the wide open spaces made it misleading how far I was hiking. It seemed like i would hike forever, looking back it didn't seem like I made much progress. Kept on pushing and had a wonderful time climbing. I learned allot about myself and this climb. I am ready to do it again but better next time.

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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby grk10vq » Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:31 am

contemporary training technique:

like me on facebook

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samg
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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby samg » Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:06 pm

Hmmm, now I'm thinking of buying one of these, recruiting a stoned hippie from the drum circle at the park for "ethnic" percussion.* and writing soundtrack music for today's savvy guide to listen to with his earbud/tech jacket combo while taking gps readings:


http://awolfe.home.xs4all.nl/studiokorgx5.htm

(And/or for GoPro soundtracks. Big money in GoPro so I hear)

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denny
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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby denny » Mon Apr 30, 2012 2:32 pm

I think somebody took a drag from that inner circle percussion guy and got a little crazy!

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samg
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Re: Broads Fork Twin Peaks

Postby samg » Mon Apr 30, 2012 11:45 pm

If that was the case, I would be posting something philosophical, like- what is a guide if he hasn't done some ceremony involving a buffalo, some kinda weird cacti, and possibly, a beaver?

Does he merit his go-pro's and GPS devices? Is he worthy to wield the shovel probe? How cold will he get out there?

Anyway, sorry to derail.


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