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GWI zinger? - Page 2 - Utahclimbers.com

GWI zinger?

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby BackClip » Wed Jan 06, 2010 3:18 pm

"Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby Brian in SLC » Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:26 pm

Professional climber? Butte America. Hmmm... Wonder how much experience he has climbing ice? Really.

"Changing conditions" cause of fall? Nah, pilot error. How many folks climb this per day on average? Gobs. I've seen as many as a dozen cars there on a week day (and folks at every belay, with solo climbers all over the place).

Always interesting when folks blame conditions, or, another party, or "it happens" instead of their own inability to read the conditions or pay attention or whatever.

Wonder how ANAM would classify this? I'll toss out a few catagories for fun.

Immediate Cause: exceeding abilities, slip on snow or ice, failure to follow route.

Contributory Causes: climbing unroped, failure to test holds, poor position, climbing alone, exceeding abilities, placed no/inadequate protection.

Hmmm....

All the best to him, and, hope he heals up quickly.

http://www.sltrib.com/outdoors/ci_14143988

Changing conditions caused ice climber's fall
Self-rescue » Montana expert used picks to slow descent.
By Tom Wharton

The Salt Lake Tribune

Updated: 01/08/2010 11:58:51 AM MST

Ice climbing: Picking away at winter

The biggest difference between ice and rock climbing is that the quality of ice varies and can change quickly.

That is something 37-year-old Gene Rawson, a professional climber from Butte, Mont., knows as someone who has enjoyed ice climbing for years. And a quick change in the ice on the Great White Icicle in Little Cottonwood Canyon led to his 300-foot fall and a subsequent dramatic rescue on New Year's Eve.

"I was climbing by myself and there was a gentleman above me about 40 feet," recalled Rawson, who was released from the Intermountain Medical Center Wednesday. "I wanted to give him a little time to reach the summit."

The ice climber noticed a great deal of water flowing underneath the ice as he stood vertically to the ice. Rawson was free climbing solo and without a rope.

As he waited, a large chunk of ice near his right leg fell through at about hip level. The climber set his ice picks and began trying to work his way out of the hole.

"I put all my weight on the left leg to get stabilized and get my footing," said Rawson. "Then the ice broke through and collapsed. That sent me down into a little void at hip level. I tilted back and tumbled from there. I had my ice pick set fairly decently. When the left leg broke through, the whole thing went through and the two ice picks popped up."

While falling, the veteran climber kept trying to self-rescue by digging the tools into the ice to slow the fall.

"I was conscious the whole way as I went to the bottom," he said. "It was a good thing I was. It was the only thing that stopped me from going all the way to the bottom."

Rawson's father, Darwin, said his son is an excellent climber and has been ice climbing since he was a young adult.

"It was the ice breaking away and, even if you do everything right, that's exactly what happened," said the elder Rawson. "He was by himself, free climbing without ropes. Some people were supposed to climb with him, but they backed out."

Doing an analysis of what went wrong, Rawson said trying to climb solo was a mistake.

"If I was roped up and had gear in the ice, the chances of anything severe happening would be minimal," he said. "When you go solo, it is taking the sport to the very extreme. It's not a smart thing to do at all, but it is a decision that people make at this level. That is a lesson learned from a lot of people, but being able to live through this, with a 300-foot fall, is huge. Normally, you never hear that someone would live."

The climber, who works for a company in Butte called The Peak that trains Special Forces and other military personnel on rock and ice climbing and mountaineering, praised the work of the Life Flight paramedics who came his rescue.

"It was a great experience to be rescued by these guys," said Rawson. "If it wasn't for them, this would not have gone well. My hats are off to them for everything going as smoothly as it did."

Rawson broke his left femur from the hip down. Doctors fastened a plate with more than a dozen screws to stabilize it.

Life Flight paramedic Mike Isom said that rescue operation was more difficult for pilot Denny Patterson than it was for him.

"As far as I was concerned as the rescuer, it was not hard, it is what we trained for, what we expect and not out of the realm," he said. "It was not an experience with ice climbing and there was nothing technical. The people who were there were able to get him into an area where we picked him up. Give credit to the people on the ground."

Isom said the key to a successful mountain rescue operation is to get the patient out of the environment as quickly as possible, especially if the person is in a great deal of pain. Life-flight workers try to position the patient to be as comfortable as possible.

Colin Grissom, a critical-care doctor and assistant medical director for Life Flight for the Intermountain Medical Center, was not involved specifically in this rescue. But, as a climber and skier before attending medical school as well as a mountaineering instructor for Colorado Outward Bound, and having worked with the National Park Service at Alaska's Mt. McKinley for eight years, he works closely with crews.

He said Life Flight helicopters are used only when the incident commander, in Rawson's case the Salt Lake County Sheriff's Office, asks them to assist.

"What happened here could have probably been done by ground crews," said Grissom. "In this situation, it would have required a technical ice rescue, many man hours and shutting the canyon down to traffic for a prolonged time with more people involved. We look at the perspective of risk versus benefit. We will not do anything unsafe. It looks spectacular and the picture looks spectacular. But any one of those crew members could have canceled the mission. It looked like a risky rescue but, from the standpoint of our crew, we thought it was a safe hoist."

wharton@sltrib.com

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby BackClip » Sat Jan 09, 2010 2:21 pm

OMG!? Sounds cocky in the interview. My buddy was TR'ing the 1st pitch w/ his boy that day when "the Iceman" came up. He DRILLED him w/ beta questions about the route. Obviously he hadn't climbed it before. Ballsy or dumb? I dunno. Wishing for the dude to have a speedy recovery.
"Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby builttospill » Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:15 am


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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby sevrdhed » Mon Jan 11, 2010 6:20 am


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grk10vq
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rollerblading = dumb / jumping off a curb = ballsY!!!

Postby grk10vq » Tue Jan 12, 2010 2:41 pm

rollerblading off a curb doesn't count sevrdhed.
like me on facebook

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby BackClip » Tue Jan 12, 2010 3:54 pm

Thats Fruit Booting to you mister!
"Does your ass get jealous from all the shit that comes out of your mouth?"

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby grk10vq » Tue Jan 12, 2010 6:10 pm

or as its known as at the gay bar: sevrdhed booting.
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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby sevrdhed » Wed Jan 13, 2010 6:49 am

Are you two hitting on me?

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Re: GWI zinger?

Postby 200#gorilla » Wed Jan 13, 2010 9:45 pm

aha!

sevrdhed booters


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