UtahIceClimbing.com

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PocketsOfBlue
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UtahIceClimbing.com

Postby PocketsOfBlue » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:39 am

Anybody know who was maintaining this site? I thought it was a good idea, albeit short-lived. Seems the site is down -- I would like to resurrect it and start posting updates again.

PocketsOfBlue
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Postby PocketsOfBlue » Mon Feb 02, 2009 11:42 am

Err, I am actually referring to iceclimbingutah.com. Last year there were like two updates from all the major areas in the Wasatch. UtahIceClimbing.com is pretty much useless.

Hell, I could just buy my own domain and start from scratch, it'd just be easier to have a working base to start from.

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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Mon Feb 02, 2009 1:14 pm

OR, you could just post stuff on this site...

PocketsOfBlue
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Postby PocketsOfBlue » Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:54 pm

Well, the idea is to collect info from others and post it centrally, rather than having it all over the place like it is now.

bsmoot
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Postby bsmoot » Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:18 pm

Ice updates are a great idea, too bad UtahIceClimbing.com didn't work.

An "Ice Conditions" thread on this site will work if climbers will make a concerted effort to post up info quickly. Sty was good at that...sigh

builttospill
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Postby builttospill » Mon Feb 02, 2009 10:56 pm

Yes he was.

Unfortunately a lot of us don't get out often enough to really update anything regularly. While I think iceclimbingutah or whatever was a good idea, I'm not sure its worth anybody's trouble. You're welcome to do it, obviously, I just wouldn't be willing to.

Between here, mountainproject and summitpost, I can usually find some relatively relevant information to give me an idea of what conditions are like. Plus, I'm starting to get a feel for how things are just based on the temps and what not. I used to check rockclimbing.com too, but since Daryn's passing there is never any useful information.

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cpage
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Postby cpage » Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:42 pm

Last year around this time Dennis White, Blake Taylor the owner of www.gearexpress.com , Doug Folland and I went up the Triangle Wall Couloir to attempt to climb Brian Smoot’s route. I had climbed it one summer up and through the chock stone, then we traversed left over to the big pine tree you can see from the road and rappelled from their. So our plan was to do the same on the ice and snow. All went well until I got about ten feet below the chock stone and just didn’t have the right equipment and or moxey to surmount the chock stone.

We backtracked back down to the base of the Triangle Wall and decided to head up towards Cocoa Puffs, the last 200 ft of Cocoa Puffs was good WI3. At the top of the route I went towards climbers right after a couple of old dead trees as anchors. They where completely rotten and not good for an anchor, I tried to work farther right toward the nearest live tree but found myself on loose snow and very steep rock. I worked my way back to a rock that was exposed on the left side of the route. Digging down by luck I went straight to an old piton. I took some cord and created an anchor using a poor horn on the rock and the piton.

The descent after the ice is very steep and fun. The next week we went up again and climbed it a second time. We looked around and I even email Brian Smoot and couldn’t confirm that anyone had been on it before. We decided to call it Cocoa Puffs on Ice.

To date I haven’t climbed any of the trad/aid routes on the Triangle Wall. It seems odd to me that I can drive to Zion or Yosemite and climb but haven’t done the Triangle Wall or the Black Peeler. I was looking for beta or any write ups about the Triangle Wall and found this link with a picture of someone ice climbing Cocoa Puffs on Ice with skies on his back. The link is http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Alpi ... 68115.html . That confirms we where not the first.

Enjoy

Carl …
Climb On Safely

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Brian in SLC
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Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Feb 05, 2009 2:04 pm

cpage wrote:I was looking for beta or any write ups about the Triangle Wall and found this link with a picture of someone ice climbing Cocoa Puffs on Ice with skies on his back. The link is http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Alpi ... 68115.html . That confirms we where not the first.


I think McLeans Chuting Gallery has some info on it, too. I seem to recall Andrew saying his was the "first descent" but not known if they did the first winter ascent enroute to the ski descent. Would have been prior to 1998 since that's when the book came out. Has been on folk's radar for quite awhile, though.

Cheers,
boissal wrote:Somebooody's smart balls need to be kicked all the way up the roof of his not so smart mouth.

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BackClip
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Postby BackClip » Thu Feb 05, 2009 3:44 pm

Robbie Colbert and I climbed/skiied that line in the winter of 04'. Lot's of Billy goating but we were more in the central face than the corner. Nothing like climbign ice with downhill boots on. The crux was when my ski tips snagged the lip of the roof as you traverse out from under it and onto the upper chute. The skiing in the upper chute was really fun too. I think last year it went clean as well. Needs a good valley dumping , preferably a wet dump.

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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Thu Feb 05, 2009 7:44 pm

Needs a good valley dumping , preferably a wet dump

How's that work? I've always wondered which condition set was preferable for those chutes though I'm not likely to hit them anytime soon.


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