Last year around this time Dennis White, Blake Taylor the owner of www.gearexpress.com
, Doug Folland and I went up the Triangle Wall Couloir to attempt to climb Brian Smoot’s route. I had climbed it one summer up and through the chock stone, then we traversed left over to the big pine tree you can see from the road and rappelled from their. So our plan was to do the same on the ice and snow. All went well until I got about ten feet below the chock stone and just didn’t have the right equipment and or moxey to surmount the chock stone.
We backtracked back down to the base of the Triangle Wall and decided to head up towards Cocoa Puffs, the last 200 ft of Cocoa Puffs was good WI3. At the top of the route I went towards climbers right after a couple of old dead trees as anchors. They where completely rotten and not good for an anchor, I tried to work farther right toward the nearest live tree but found myself on loose snow and very steep rock. I worked my way back to a rock that was exposed on the left side of the route. Digging down by luck I went straight to an old piton. I took some cord and created an anchor using a poor horn on the rock and the piton.
The descent after the ice is very steep and fun. The next week we went up again and climbed it a second time. We looked around and I even email Brian Smoot and couldn’t confirm that anyone had been on it before. We decided to call it Cocoa Puffs on Ice.
To date I haven’t climbed any of the trad/aid routes on the Triangle Wall. It seems odd to me that I can drive to Zion or Yosemite and climb but haven’t done the Triangle Wall or the Black Peeler. I was looking for beta or any write ups about the Triangle Wall and found this link with a picture of someone ice climbing Cocoa Puffs on Ice with skies on his back. The link is http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos/Alpi ... 68115.html
. That confirms we where not the first.