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Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua - Utahclimbers.com

Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

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Skyman
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Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Skyman » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:26 am

Wish I didn't have to post this. I posted a related article in the announcement section. Here is an updated link.

http://www.ansa.it/site/notizie/awnplus ... 08650.html

Fede, the Argentinian guide, has been living here in Utah the past few years. I will post an update when I get details from the Family. My thoughts and prayers are with his Wife and Family.

Fede, spent last season guiding on Rainier. I was told he set the record for number of summits in a season.

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Postby sevrdhed » Fri Jan 09, 2009 8:31 am

Damn. When I first read the article, it sounded like they had gotten him down and recovering. Sucks to read the update.

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Postby Skyman » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:04 am

Some additional information.

Federico Campanini
Federico "el Fede" was born in Mendoza, Argentina, near the Andes Mountains. Federico started climbing seriously after college and two years later he got his mountain guide certification in Argentina. Since then his passion for mountains, climbing and travel took him to different adventures and places in South America, such as Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Patagonia and of course his home land of Mendoza. Federico moved to Utah in May 2006 and he has been climbing and skiing in the United States since then.

Climbing Resume
17+ summits of Mount Rainier (14,410')
Mount McKinley (20,320')
Argentina: Aconcagua (22,832'), El Plata (20,000'), Vallecitos (19,024'), Agustin Alvarez (17,385'), Frankie (16,400'),
Expedition to La Jaula range, and new route in Tatra peak (17,000')
Patagonia: Aguja de la S, Cerro Solo, Electrico
Expeditions into the Patagonic South ice field (paso marconi-paso del viento)
Circumnavigation of cerro Fitz Roy

Certifications
Mountain guide (EPGAMT. Mendoza-Argentina)
Wilderness First Responder
Emergency Medical Technician - B
U.S. Avalanche Level II
Leave No Trace Trainer

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Postby jun » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:12 am

That's really sad.

Best wishes to his family. I hope they can find solace in the fact he died doing something he loved.
Up, way up.

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Postby Skyman » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:44 pm


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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Brian in SLC » Wed Feb 18, 2009 2:34 pm

This story still has some legs...

From I think Everest.com website:

Aconcagua: last moments on YouTube

While compiling the Aconcagua 2008/09 Season's end report for ExplorersWeb, Rodrigo Granzotto Peron reported on the death of Argentinean guide Federico Campanini, 31 and one of his clients (Elena Senin, 38).

Local media stated the group had summited via the normal route, but lost their way in a sudden storm and mistakenly descended the technical Polish route. Federico and Elena died (reportedly in a fall), while the rest of the group was rescued by helicopters.

Campanini was reported dead on Aconcagua on January 8th, 2009. A video posted on YouTube yesterday shows his last moments. Rescuers reached the guide on Jan 6th, still alive. Carrying no O2, no warm clothes and not even a stretcher, they roped Federico up and dragged him in the snow before leaving him. Campanini's father uploaded the video after receiving it anonymously and has now launched a lawsuit, media reports.

The rescuers reportedly were trying to drag the sick climber up to the summit (probably to descend via the normal route). Here goes a transcript of some of the comments, translated into English – we’ve added the time frames so you can follow them while watching the video:

0.03 – Cameraman (with labored breath): “Here we are, 300 meters shy from the summit… he is the guide… we can’t move him any further, we are very tired… It’s snowing hard now… we are on the glacier… we’ve tried in every way… there was 400m (to the top), we’ve climbed up 100m…”

0.42 - Rescuer at Federico’s side: “He can’t – he can’t be taken out. He can’t be taken out (approaching the camera). We are freezing – we have 400m left to the summit and he’s not moving. He’s in a bad state. I am authorized by the judge…(some unintelligible words).”

1.01 – Two rescuers: “Get up, cuñado (dude/mate)! Come on, come on, shit!! (trying to raise Federico to his feet)”

1.09 - Cameraman:”Let God enlighten him and give him strength, please.”

(Federico advances some meters on his hand and knees – then stops and lay on one side)

1:35 - Cameraman: “We’ve made ten meters more […] he doesn’t want to go anymore.”

1:57 - Rescuer speaking on the radio:: “Argentina? Tell him/them he is dying. (answer on the radio not understandable) Tell him/them he is dying. He won’t last 40 minutes longer.

Ed. Note:The following answer on the radio can’t be understood clearly. The voice seems to say (2:13): “Well, well – then try to evacuate him for 40 minutes more, even if he’s dying.” The rescuer answers: “It’s improbable, dude.” However, some unclear words may have a different meaning.

2:24 - Cameraman mutters some inaudible words while crying.

There is a final shot of the rescuers dragging a tense rope. It is unclear though whether they leave Federico there or not.

The images have sparked a heated debate in Argentina. “The debate on the operation has focused on the rescue team being seemingly unprepared to find the guide alive,” AFP reported. “The team had no oxygen for him, nor a thermal sleeping bag or stretcher to carry him.”

"They went looking for a corpse and they found a survivor," Carlos Campanini told the news agency.

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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby builttospill » Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:24 am

Holy shit.

That is crazy. I don't know what to say other than that.

I sure as hell am not going to let anyone in my family watch that video though.

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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Skyman » Thu Feb 19, 2009 10:10 am

I saw the video a few days ago. This has been very difficult for the family. It is hard to make any judgment based on a few minutes of video. The first thing that came to my mind was, they can bring a camera, but not a bottle of oxygen? Very unprepared rescue team. I can't seem to get this video out of my mind.

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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Feb 19, 2009 11:00 am


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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Skyman » Thu Feb 19, 2009 12:33 pm

Brian, I have to agree with what you said. It is clear I have an emotional attachment. I've only been to 19,000 feet in Peru. I can attest to what the altitude can do to you. We all know the price we can pay for our adventures into the wild. Have you seen the video? I'm not sure if I should post it or not?

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Re: Utah Climber Dies on Acongagua

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:00 pm



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