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Great White Icicle - Personal Goals/Speed Challenge - Page 2 - Utahclimbers.com

Great White Icicle - Personal Goals/Speed Challenge

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grk10vq
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Liberace give me dierections

Postby grk10vq » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:54 pm

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Postby grk10vq » Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:42 am

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Postby Tenesmus » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:32 pm

talk about serious cardio fitness. imagine how pumped your calves would be!

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Postby db » Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:59 pm

Just to pile it on, ice is not rock. You cant just throw your tool at the ice. You've got to hit, test, maybe hit again. Kick, test, kick again. Especially if you're going solo. In the case of Steort's Ridge, you can dial in moves/lunges, etc. The rock doesn't change. The ice on GWI is always changing - especially on the last pitch.

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Postby cpage » Tue Dec 30, 2008 5:29 am

OK - I have started. Yesterday was a big day, I finished the last of the vanilla ice cream in a glass of root beer, most of the Christmas candy has also been processed through my body and I mostly drank water instead of Coke. Doug picked me up at 5:30am and we went to the South Davis Recreation Center for a cardio work out, weight lifting and crunches. He will be honking in just a few minutes for today’s workout.

Carl ...
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Postby builttospill » Tue Dec 30, 2008 2:40 pm

I don’t have much else going for me, so I decided to see how fast I could climb the Great White Icicle and Scruffy Band today. My job is not exactly a fast track to success, I’m on the 6-year plan to get my value-less degree in political science, I am quite literally a monument to wasted potential. My mom would agree, as I’m sure my girlfriend would also. About the only things I’ve got going for me are that I can move reasonably fast sometimes, and I can climb ice, though not particularly well. So, using a few hours of vacation, I figured I’d try to console myself by climbing these two things as fast as I could.

I’ve been up both climbs before (4 times for GWI and 3 times for Scruffy Band, though one ascent was truncated by sickness, graphically described here, as I’m sure some of you will recall). My times (solo, of course) from this morning before work:

GWI Car to Car 0:49
Scruffy Band Car to Car 0:55

Crux of the whole thing? Trying not to look stupid while running up the trail in crampons.

For what its worth, 18 minutes is crazy, but I could maybe see it happening. It took me 4.5 minutes to the base of the climb, and I walked the last part because I forgot how long it had been since I ran hills. Someone could shave a minute there. I stopped several times for other parties, so you could easily shave 8-10 minutes there. And I stayed on my feet almost the entire way down, being overly cautious. Glissading the descent may save you another 5 minutes, bringing it to the 33-35 minute range. Someone quicker on ice may be able to save more time, and maybe if good steps are kicked on the snow pitches it would go faster.

As for Scruffy, that time is soft but I'm not going back up there this year. I try to limit myself to climbing each of these routes once per year, since Provo Canyon is much closer to my house. Scruffy is thin, with a mixed move or two thrown in above the thin start (VERY thin start this year). The upper pillar is formed, but be cautious.....I kicked off a body-sized part of the pillar and that effectively ended my day. My time does not include topping out, because I downclimbed and traversed to the rappel after that little incident.

Sorry, no pictures from the climb.....except this one in the car.




Also, if anyone finds a camera on Scruffy Band, let me know. The group before me lost one and I have their contact info.

P.S. Good luck Carl.

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Postby jun » Wed Dec 31, 2008 7:58 am

as usual BTS, way to push the envelope just a little more.

i would like to climb with you again this year if you don't mind putting up with me. On the other hand, i'd rather not repeat our experience on Bridal Veil Right.
Up, way up.

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nose humping

Postby grk10vq » Wed Dec 31, 2008 9:29 am

do you have a fresh gash splitting your nose now?

if i were you i'd stay away from male midget inmates.
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Postby cpage » Thu Jan 01, 2009 9:41 am

Happy New Year everyone and hopefully we will se some great times posted for the GWI. I am very proud of my 1 hour 42 minute time from last year, keep in mind most climbers are spending 3 to 4 hours doing the GWI route. Builttospill's post this week of 49 minutes GWI and 55 minute for the Scruffy Band back to back are impressive. He gives us all hope that we can increase our effectiveness on the ice. I appreciate Nate’s who has done a sub 60 minute climb and others suggestions about concentrating on cardio for this route. Doug and I have been going to the gym each morning and pushing ourselves hard to improve our endurance.

Back to time – please feel free to post your times and or goals. Most of us have little chance of doing the route as fast as builttospill, please look at his success as proof that you and I can do better. The idea is to have fun and improve ones self. Last year in one of my early visits with Hans Florine he described to me that it takes 1500 of his exercise points to climb the Nose. If it takes you three days to earn 1500 point it will probably take you three days to climb the Nose. Hans has the ability to earn 1500 points in less than three hour. One of his websites is http://speedclimb.com/ . For very little money he will help you set up a training program tailored to your goals especially if that goal is the Nose. I am guessing that if I can earn 500 points in less than an hour I should be able to climb the GWI in less than an hour. To over simplify Hans’ system each point is three calories burned.

Climbing magazine once ran an issue about all the different kinds of climbers and what makes them feel successful. What I got out of that issue was that the best climber is the person who is having fun at what he loves. I am going to a party on my brother’s ranch today. Devils slide and the Screamer ice climbs are on his property. I will check the Screamers out to see if they are in.

Carl …
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Postby bsmoot » Thu Jan 01, 2009 6:21 pm

What I wanna hear about is the SLOWEST time on the GWI...any bivies?

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Postby cpage » Thu Jan 01, 2009 10:53 pm

Bivy on the Great White - Brian, I have done two different bivies on the GW. Both times we camped at the base of the Bulge. The first time there wasn't much snow and there where three of us, the second time there was a lot of snow and a group of five. We had a great time digging in and creating platforms in the snow to sleep on. After establishing our Camp we repelled to the base of the ramp a climbed it five or six times. The next morning two groups of climbers came through before we broke camp finished the route. They looked at us like we where crazy. I would love to do it every year but it seemed a little unfair to the early morning climbers.

Carl ...
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Postby cpage » Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:04 am

I invite others to post times, goals and training successes for the GW. Time yourself, post it, think about it and then post again as your times improve. It really doesn't matter what your time is, but if you’re interested it does matter every time you set a new personal best. This morning I was exhausted getting out of bed at 5:10am. Doug picked me up and we where to the gym by 5:35am, I climbed on the machine that simulates mountain climbing, put in 30 minutes, 210 pounds, random difficulty with a seven setting took my pulse it was already at 78 started my Ipod and took the full length of the stride available the I heard Norah Jones soft piano and the opening words of her song "The Long Day is Over" say what I felt, Feeling Tired. I thought she got that one right I wish I was home in bed. I kept striding getting my heart rate up. I am pretty sure I kept my eyes closed in a state of near sleep. After several random tunes from Beck and some Latin Dance music left over from my wife’s and my dance lessons I opened my eyes and about 12 minutes of the work out was over. If the first song started out with Feeling Tired that so described how I felt then the last song by Carly Simon couldn't have ended the 30 minutes any better with her singing "The Stuff Dreams Are Made Of".

Our quest to improve our selves and our situations is the stuff dreams are made of. Now some of you have to be thinking what wrong with that guy listening to Norah Jones and Carly Simon. The answer is yes I am married to a woman and have three grown children and nine grandchildren, but thank you for asking.

Doug and I plan on climbing the GW tomorrow morning and I will let you know how we do. I’m not expecting anything great but faster or slower I will post.

Carl …
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Postby Tenesmus » Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:57 am



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