Beyond (and above) the Scruffy Band...

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Brian in SLC
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Beyond (and above) the Scruffy Band...

Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Mar 10, 2008 11:07 am

Ok, so who's been above the Scruffy Band? I'm seein' and hearin' that the area up there is gettin' some action.

Post up. Bunch of lines up there, who's been sniffin' around?

Long coulior on the left and to its right, a bit of hanging ice that's accessable by a rightward traverse and a cut back left to the fat, lower angle stuff which goes for another pitch.

Let's hear it!
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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:52 pm

you know bsmoot's went up there sat... weren't you up there with him?

must have been his brother.

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Postby bsmoot » Mon Mar 10, 2008 7:23 pm

We found an old sling high in the coulior. The hanging ice route had a recent rap sling. You could hike off that route too, so maybe we'll never know. I suspected both these routes may have been done, but I wanted to explore the area regardless. Glad I did, the hanging ice route was almost all ice...certainly worth doing.

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cpage
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Postby cpage » Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:27 pm

Brian Smoot - If you are asking about the red one inch webbing around a pretty good sized pine tree above the Hanging Pillar, we left that webbing. What a great ice year this has been. We where able to climb in that area four or five times this year, we get out every Wednesday morning before work and then when we can. When we first slung the tree we left two lever biners. Later we replaced the biners with a Mailon Screw Link. We had one comical experience; Bill Rosqvist started the Pillar low and to climbers right as a traverse. His right axe was set well and high as he started moving left until his right arm was fully extended. He then set his left ax as far left as he could reach. While trying to get his right ax out his crampons slipped and he looked as if he was being crucified. It was a great laugh watching him get himself out of that situation.

We are nervous about the ice in the morning so we will be doing a snow climb into the Triangle Wall area. We should be at the trailhead around 5:30 am if anyone would like to go, I am guessing Brian would be a great person to get beta from since he has the FA for A Day in Scotland 5.9 A1. I am guessing that this trip will just get us to the base of Brian’s climb before we have to get back to work.

Carl…
Climb On Safely

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Postby bsmoot » Wed Mar 12, 2008 9:36 pm

Pretty good sized tree??? Smiles...definitely old school. The tree was about 6" wide and had a section that was rotted and decayed...where the rap sling was. We backed it up with a long runner around a shallow horn of rock. We found a 1/2" red sewn runner connected by a locking carabiner.

So Carl, did you find any evidence of someone who had climbed there before you? If not, have you given the route a name?

Thanks, Brian

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Re: Beyond (and above) the Scruffy Band...

Postby BackClip » Sat Feb 21, 2009 12:36 pm

bump........Carl?

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Re: Beyond (and above) the Scruffy Band...

Postby bsmoot » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:35 am

After talking to Carl, we decided that the ice I had done (the stuff way up there) was not the same ice he had done. Carl had climbed something much lower down the mountain.


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