Echo Canyon Alpine and Ice Route II, WI 4-5, M4, R (Nov 04)

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Echo Canyon Alpine and Ice Route II, WI 4-5, M4, R (Nov 04)

Postby cpage » Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:12 am

Many thanks to David Black the author of Ice Climbing Utah. The start of the route I am talking about is found on page 119 of his book. I have used some of his descriptions along with mine to give updated beta for the lower part of the route and additional pitch's not described in the book.

Echo Canyon

The Left and Right Screamers to The Eye of the Salmon and Salmon Ridge II, WI 4-5, M4, R

Length: 400 feet? I will recheck the height of the pitches this winter.

Approach: Located above MM 11.8, just above I-84 on the south side of the freeway. Park as close as possible, wherever it's convenient and legal (this will require some creativity, I have parked next to the flows and just jumped the fence, the Highway Patrol will stop but to date I have not recieved a ticket. I often climb at night and plan on leaving a note on my car letting the officer know I mean to be climbing in the dark). Jumping the fence is dangerous and illegal.

The Climbs: The first pitchs of these ice climbs are two parallel flows on the broken roadside face. The climbs go directly up what can be very thin ice and hard to protect. The last couple of years (2001-2003)the ice has been thick.

Left Screamer 80 feet, WI4, has a tree over the lip and 50 feet of alpine snow to webbing and anchor rings tied around a good anchor tree.

Right Screamer 100 feet, WI4, has two bolts left of the ice flow up 75 feet on a ledge and a second set of bolts at the top and to climbers left marked by a piece of rebar sticking out of the snow. Either set of these bolts can be used for a belay station.

Screamer Two the Sequel 80 feet, WI5, from the top of the Screamers a short alpine hike to climbers right (west) along the ledge leads to a smear in an alcove. At the top and climbers right of the flow are bolts for a belay also marked by rebar sticking out of the snow.

The Real Screamer 50 feet WI3, M4, R, from the top of Screamer Two the Sequel follow the flow to climbers right and up a 50 foot section of very thin and un-protectable ice and dry tool climbing to another alpine section. Look hard right to see the Eye of the Salmon (a natural arch). Continue up the alpine area and slightly towards climbers left for the final anchor tree. To finish, climb free alpine terrain from the tree to Salmon Ridge.

Descent: Rappel the routes with two 60m ropes from bolts and trees. Natural anchors are few and far between.

Note: The complete climb is a great alpine and ice adventure. Bolts installed summer of 2004 with the owner's permission and should be checked before using. I am not sure who climbed the lower Screamers first. To the best of my knowledge Carl Page and Dee Winegar completed the first winter ascent to Salmon Ridge in the winter of 2002-2003. These routes are on private land so tread lightly.


Echo Canyon, Screamer Left WI4, 1-15-05 - Dee Winegar leading Screamer Left, photo by Carl Page

Image

As always, climb safely.

Carl ...
Last edited by cpage on Sat Feb 02, 2008 9:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Climb On Safely

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cpage
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Conditions Update 12-26-07

Postby cpage » Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:24 am

Doug Folland and I climbed the first pitch of Screamer Right today December 26, 2007. There is enough ice to pick and hang, but not enough to sink and ice ax or to protect with a screw. We opted to hike around to the top of the first pitch to set up a TR. All the pitches have some ice and the mountain has lots of snow. Hopefully there will be a good melt/freeze cycle and climbers will have the opportunity to do the full route this season.

Carl ...
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Postby cpage » Sat Feb 02, 2008 9:13 am

Screamer Update February 1, 2008 -- Dennis White and I climbed Screamer Left and Screamer the Sequel (WI5)-- We did not climb all the pitches to the top of the Salmon Ridge. The snow is at least four feet deep which make up hill travel a grind. Dennis White did a great job leading the second difficult pitch. Bring radios; these routes are difficult to communicate on because of river and freeway noise. Over the next month these routes will get fat with the upcoming melt freeze patterns.

Carl ...
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cpage
Lead, follow, or get out of the way!
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Postby cpage » Thu Jan 01, 2009 5:57 pm

My wife’s extended family has an annual family snow party every New Years day on my brother-in-laws ranch. Two notable features are on his property, Devils Slide and the Screamer Ice routes. After the party today I drove up to see the condition of the ice. The screamers require a good mountain snow pack and a melt freeze pattern and usually come in later in the ice season. Usually Screamer Left comes in before Screamer Right. As of today Screamer Right is way ahead of the left and both the second and the third pitches have ice from top to bottom. Hopefully we are in a good melt freeze pattern and that the route will be fat enough over the next couple of weeks for ascents to the upper ridge. When it is in this is a great Alpine/Ice Adventure.

Carl ...
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