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ICE CLIMBING IS NOT SPORT CLIMBING!!! - Utahclimbers.com

ICE CLIMBING IS NOT SPORT CLIMBING!!!

Moderator: Shaft

Sunny-D
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ICE CLIMBING IS NOT SPORT CLIMBING!!!

Postby Sunny-D » Fri Dec 14, 2007 11:09 am

Ice Climbing is not Sport Climbing and the Apron of the Stairway in Provo Canyon is not Ouray...
I was out this morning and noticed as I climbed by them that someone has put 3 sets of chain anchors on the first tier of the Apron. What is up with that? I realize it makes it really easy to top rope, but people have been top roping here for over 30 years with out these eyesores. Whoever did it put conduit sticking straight out with chain attached. Good Idea if you are climbing in Ouray, Co. Bad for the apron. It is really easy to place good strong screws in all three of the locations that these anchors are. In fact in the past that is why there have never been bolts there, the ice gets really thick. LEARN TO PLACE GEAR AND COUGH UP AND BY A COUPLE OF SCREWS FOR YOUR ANCHORS... Come on we are not sport climbing here...
You can built bomber anchors in the ice in this area. One screw and a coat hanger v thread tool and you can built to your hearts content. I know, I have personally hung, close to 20 ropes in that area all off of V thread anchors at one time. I am temped next time I am up there to pull the chain and conduit out of the ice... Does anyone else have any thoughts on this?
There are now 2 sets of chains on the big boulder at the top of the apron. Both sets are build very old school with the bolts going directly through the chain with washers holding the bolts on. It looks like they are set up to rap off the boulder... Bad idea. There are always people down below on the apron. There is a rap station 75 ft to the right and it is easy to walk off that section to the right. Come on! At least spent a couple more dollars and put in good climbing hangers. So there won't be leveraging on the chain.

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sevrdhed
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Postby sevrdhed » Fri Dec 14, 2007 12:34 pm

and here, I thought this thread was going to be about how crappy I am at sport climbing.


Sucks that people are randomly adding anchors to shit, especially poorly placed anchors like it sounds like the bolt through the chains are.

Personally, (having absolutely no experience that would give me any real say in the matter) it seems to me that if there's already excellent natural anchor spots, which it sounds like there are, then it would be silly to place bolted anchors. Learning to build anchors is part of the game. It would be like putting bolted anchors at the top of every pitch of school room.

But again, I have no idea what I'm talking about.

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jun
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Postby jun » Fri Dec 14, 2007 2:11 pm

Up, way up.

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Postby bsmoot » Fri Dec 14, 2007 3:03 pm


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Pictures Forth Coming

Postby Sunny-D » Sat Dec 15, 2007 1:19 pm


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I'm Comfussed

Postby PunchKing » Sat Dec 15, 2007 2:14 pm


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stymingersfink
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P3 Rap Tree

Postby stymingersfink » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:27 pm


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Postby Sunny-D » Sat Dec 15, 2007 9:42 pm


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Postby stymingersfink » Sat Dec 15, 2007 10:11 pm


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Postby Sunny-D » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:33 am


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Re: I'm Comfussed

Postby Sunny-D » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:44 am


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Postby Tenesmus » Sun Dec 16, 2007 1:23 pm


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Postby D Master K » Sun Dec 16, 2007 8:35 pm


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Postby stymingersfink » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:51 pm


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Postby stymingersfink » Sun Dec 16, 2007 10:53 pm



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