Castle Rock State Park:
The Rising*** 5.13a
I finally did this on Wednesday...for those of you that have heard me talk about my "top-secret project", well this is it. If the rating is confirmed, then it is the first "natural" (not chipped) 5.13 at the City of Rocks/Castles. It's a great route too!
This is the formation. It's pretty easy to spot from the parking lot. It's in the "Zone 2" area, NorthWest of Lone Rock, SouthWest of the Comp Wall. It's about a 20 minunte hike from Lone Rock to the base of the route.
This crack was first aided by Brad Schilling to the top of the wall (bolts), he tipped me off to it. The free route currently climbs to a stance just over the lip of the roof, as the arrow shows. The remaining portion will go free at about 5.11 or so, but I didn't have time to do it before the snow hit. (It's basically a steeper, thinner version of the Green A...I've done the moves on TR, but lead will take some more work).
Here is the crack portion close up:
This is the crux...it's 25-30 feet tall and overhangs about 5-10 degrees. There is a crappy rest under the roof, then you traverse left to the toe, which requires some tenous moves. Finally pull the roof which is actually pretty easy, but with the pump, I managed to fall off there on one of my RP attempts.
Here's an action photo:
more in the gallery: