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City of Rocks/Castle Rock (...practically in Utah) - Utahclimbers.com

City of Rocks/Castle Rock (...practically in Utah)

Moderator: Shaft

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User avatar
MikeA
Rock Prodigy
Posts: 675
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 1:57 pm
Location: sigh...Colorado Springs
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City of Rocks/Castle Rock (...practically in Utah)

Postby MikeA » Fri Nov 21, 2003 10:02 am

Castle Rock State Park:
The Rising*** 5.13a

I finally did this on Wednesday...for those of you that have heard me talk about my "top-secret project", well this is it. If the rating is confirmed, then it is the first "natural" (not chipped) 5.13 at the City of Rocks/Castles. It's a great route too!

This is the formation. It's pretty easy to spot from the parking lot. It's in the "Zone 2" area, NorthWest of Lone Rock, SouthWest of the Comp Wall. It's about a 20 minunte hike from Lone Rock to the base of the route.



This crack was first aided by Brad Schilling to the top of the wall (bolts), he tipped me off to it. The free route currently climbs to a stance just over the lip of the roof, as the arrow shows. The remaining portion will go free at about 5.11 or so, but I didn't have time to do it before the snow hit. (It's basically a steeper, thinner version of the Green A...I've done the moves on TR, but lead will take some more work).

Here is the crack portion close up:



This is the crux...it's 25-30 feet tall and overhangs about 5-10 degrees. There is a crappy rest under the roof, then you traverse left to the toe, which requires some tenous moves. Finally pull the roof which is actually pretty easy, but with the pump, I managed to fall off there on one of my RP attempts.

Here's an action photo:


more in the gallery:


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trashman
Tosser
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Postby trashman » Sat Nov 22, 2003 4:07 pm


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jonathan knight
Scotch provider
Posts: 379
Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2003 12:04 pm
Location: Salt Lake City
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Postby jonathan knight » Sun Nov 23, 2003 2:23 pm


User avatar
MikeA
Rock Prodigy
Posts: 675
Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 1:57 pm
Location: sigh...Colorado Springs
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Postby MikeA » Mon Nov 24, 2003 8:55 am


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Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
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Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Nov 24, 2003 2:26 pm


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Brian in SLC
Gives Directions to the Pile
Posts: 730
Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 2:02 pm
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City of Rocks: new routes

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Dec 04, 2003 10:19 am

Speakin' of easier stuff...

Here's a couple of new routes at the City, up this fall...

"Wonder Bread", on the White Wall (right of Renegade). Blowin' the chalk dust off the fingers, so "euro":



Addin' an anchor to the top of "Pave Paradise" on the front side of Parkin' Lot wall:



Sending said route:



Fun fun fun...

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crackroach
Sport Rappeller
Posts: 266
Joined: Thu Apr 03, 2003 5:04 pm
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Contact:

Postby crackroach » Thu Dec 04, 2003 10:49 am



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