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san rafael swell - Page 2 - Utahclimbers.com

san rafael swell

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Postby Mr Nice » Wed Jun 08, 2005 2:30 pm


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Postby joe » Sat Jun 11, 2005 8:56 pm


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Postby Mr Nice » Sun Jun 12, 2005 2:44 pm


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Postby joe » Sun Jun 12, 2005 4:34 pm


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Postby Mr Nice » Mon Jun 13, 2005 11:14 am


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New routes in the Swell

Postby Ben Folsom » Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:11 pm


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Bolted routes on the reef

Postby Ben Folsom » Fri May 18, 2007 11:12 pm


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Postby etrier » Sat May 19, 2007 11:55 pm

Ben,
I'll have to take you up on your offer of beta for your routes. Are they digital and could you send them to me? No offense as per the comments...I wasn't talking about your routes anyway....you should have suspected that.

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Postby Tenesmus » Sun May 20, 2007 7:41 am

many are in his profile on mountainproject. I'd go do a few with you. Lots a 5.11 climbing in there though.

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Postby Ben Folsom » Sun May 20, 2007 9:19 am

Last edited by Ben Folsom on Thu Jul 05, 2007 5:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby crackroach » Mon Jul 02, 2007 6:58 pm


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Postby sevrdhed » Tue Jul 03, 2007 6:52 am


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Postby Ben Folsom » Thu Aug 02, 2007 5:48 pm

The routes Lance and I have been putting up in the Reef usually have more than one bolt per pitch, unless it is 5.7 or 5.8 or something. Looking at our pitch lengths and bolt counts, it seems like on average we are placing bolts 15-25 feet apart. Some closer and some more widely spaced, depending on where we can get stances. Our ethic for our routes down there is that all the bolts need to be placed from free stances, no hooks or aiding allowed. Two of our early routes have bolts placed from aid, but we decided shortly thereafter that the climbing style on those faces was perfect for placing bolts only from stances. Sometimes in the middle of tenuous climbing. Lance came up with a really efficient bolting system for doing it that way. Anyway, for the most part, the routes are fairly safe. There are for sure some places where falling would not be a good idea, but we have taken some pretty good falls down there, and so far they have been clean.
Wholesome Folsom

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Postby 200#gorilla » Thu Aug 02, 2007 10:24 pm


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Postby sevrdhed » Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:06 am

Yeah Ben, this only had 1 pitch of 5.7 and then 3 pitches of 5.4. Then up above, there were 2 pitches of 5.8 which looked like they were protected well enough. The 5.4 pitches had no real protection though, and at one point, fluffy was looking at a huge 200+ foot slab fall. That was fun.

On the plus side, we gave Ian his first real experience at "rescuing" some dipshit climbers that got themselves in over their heads.

And 200#, you're right, I should have expected a hell of an adventure from Ian. And that it certainly was. It's just so hard to turn that kid down, when he's so psyched.

Anyway, since we're talking about Ian, how about a couple of photos. Here's crazy Ian soloing past some dude on TR, up at Dogwood.



And this is the Formation in the swell that we went to climb. Lots down there, much the same.




And finally, Fluffy casting off on the first pitch of the route I've renamed Scariest fuckin thing I've ever done, with Bently and Ian at the anchors.



Good times! Miss that bastard.


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