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JCOB (west side by Wiplash) http://www.climbrock.com/AA.htm this link will show you a picture of it all.

My parnter and I have been calling this wall the All American Wall for the American Flag that someone put out on the ridge over labor day and you can see it as you turn down onto the double lane bridge over the stream.

Just to the left of Orisis and the other hard line starts the first one.
We spent some time trying to clean this wall up the best we could in a short amount of time. There is I am sure still dirt and moss to contend with. But all in all they are great long lines with a short approach.
All three lines can be climbed with one rope with two raps or bring a second for one.

1. Unemployment Line 5.11a? A line for the serious climber. This line can sport some big rippers but well protected with,, well bring atleast 20 draws. Climbs nicely in one pitch and very deceiving. Bring a long runner for the bolt under the roof. Starts just left of the fixed chain under the 5.13's (chains at the top.) 9/3/03

2. Retrobution 5.10a Just down the wall to the left start this line. Climb to the right of the big hanging block following the bolts onto an arete/slab
continue up and then climb left of the roof past a glue in eye bolt.
follow bolts to midway belay. Climb the face above following the bolts onto a steep short face (5.10) to a chain belay. Just bring atleast 20 draws to be safe 8/26/03

3. Predisessor 5.10 Full on adventure climbing on this one. Start to the right of the overhanging section down low on the wall. climb past 3 bolts and then left following the bolts. High steep onto the face to the left of the broken block and climb the face to a midway belay with a red sling.
12 clips to the red sling belay and then gear is required on the next section with 2 bolts for confidance that follows the small seam up and through a roof. After this climb the next face with 2 bolts and look for the eco hangers at top. Bring small RP's or Zeros for help and some med cams and stoppers. 6/00

A variation with 2 bolts and some med and small gear can link Predicessor with Retobution down low.

Thanks etrie for the help on Retro.

These routes are located on the north side of the catch basin across the field where the leaning wall sandwiched between shale is.
You may already know about these lines but I should include then anyway just incase.

One the main finger of rock holds 2 lines the rest are to the west a little.

1. Damed if you Do 5.12b I have seen a lot of booty hanging on this line for awhile this year until someone scored.
Climb the ramp to the vertical face then fight your way up with out running out of gas. Staying below the bolts and using long runners when you leave the vertical face and start climbing left will help you alot and make the rope run better for the upper section. two ropes to get off or rap with one to the start of Damed of you Don't and hike off.
Can't remember how many bolts. 40m

(If anyone has done this line I would like to know about it.)

2. Damnd if you Don't 5.11c Start by climbing up onto the ledge on the other wall to the left about 30 feet, then walk over to the edge of leaning wall. you should see bolts following the arete up. There is an old pin on the ledge for you if you want to use it to belay.(gear is handy)
Step off the ledge and climb the face with good holds and great exposure.
A fun line that dose not see much traffic. two rope rap. 30+m

3. Day as Night 5.10a Just west on the other wall is this fun line.
Start at the base of a corner and a crack under a bolt. Climb either left or right along the arete to a ledge and another short section of climbing to the top. Well protected 9 bolts. 25m
J.G. 3/03

4. Fall Equinox 5.8+ Start on the low angle broken slab left of Day as Night. This line may not look like much but it offers some nice relaxed climbing. (seeing people climbing it alot) 20m 8 bolts.
R.K. 3/03


On the Reservoir Ridge east face are some new lines also put up by J.G.
so you should get the beta from him they are nice easy sport routes.

Located 1.5 miles on the right from the electric sign. ( Or its the same turnout for the Wave up road on the curve to your right.) Cross the creek to the base of routes. 45 sec. approach.

1. Spring Feed 5.9 Looks can be deceiving. Climb the broken edge arete to the smooth stuff. 6 bolts chains.

2. Water Crest 5.11a? On the left side facing up canyon climb the broken face and don't get stumped at the top. 6 bolts.

put up in April 03 by R.K.



1."The Big Easy" On the west side of Seldom Seen gully but on bottom south face is a line that follows the left hooking face for 90' bring at least 12 draws 5.9 chains.
You can see this line from the road turn out above the creek. 2min approach.

2. Just up creek from Dark Star is "Fine Arete" 6 bolts off the creek to chains. 5.11b

3. "Over Easy" Hike to the base of Dead Snag and look for the gully around the base to the north. This climb is actually on the Talk wall but the east faceing side. Hike the gully up with dead snag on the left to the base of the east facing slab. Watch for falling rock down the chimney. Look for a bolt 20' off the deck at the top of the gully or the bottom of the chimney. Climb the face past 9 bolts to a belay 30m (5.7) Keep climbing past belay and pull the small roof with a crack(5.8?). Continue up using the crack as protection to the top 60m (5.6-7). One 60m rope will get you off with 2 raps. or bring 2 ropes and one rap will do.
Bring some stoppers and #2-3 cams.

Posion Ivy Gully and just east of Autumnal wall

In Posion Ivy Gully down low on the east facing wall is a bolted line you may have seen and wondered about.

1. Scratch my Back 5.11 Climb the face to the shields stacked on each other. all bolts. R.K 02

Just past the Autumnal Wall is a hidden alcove behind the trees.
Called Shady Lanes this area offers some tuff short bolted climbs.
Great place to hide in the shade in the summer.

1. Killer Bee's 5.9+. We came across a nest of bees at the top when putting this line up and they tried to kill us.
Start just right of the overhanging dihedral on the west facing side under a bolt. Climb the face and edge to the top. 6/98

2. ToWeak 5.12a A great line that would be super classic if it was twice as long. Climb the inside overhanging dihedral. Staying right is the one way but other variations exist. 6/98

3. Hans and Frans 5.11c We are here to pump you up.
Actuall two climbs in one. In your face climbing from the get go.
Has stumped amany a good climbers.
Climbing right and then to the top of ToWeak is Hans (after the 3rd bolt)
and left is Frans. 6/98

4. The crack climb to the left of Hans and Frans goes at mid 11
give it a try on TR or better yet gear it up.

(courtesy of redpoint)
So, we put up a route this weekend at Moss Ledges. It's to the right of Wienie Roast and starts out of the waterflow/bottleneck above the picnic tables. Look on the left and you'll see two bolts protecting the start. After that, climb through a steep section (5.9) on pro and move right under another bulge. Finally, move past a fist crack and fire the final moves past two bolts(crux).

An alternate exit continues left on the fist crack and pinches down to nice fingerlocks (5.9).

We think the bolted finish is ~.11a, but would love a consensus from anyone. It's deceptively steep and long for BCC. Bring pro up to a #3 Camalot and lots of slings.

A 60 meter rope hangs 3 feet off the ground from the anchors!

Agua world has seen some new development and redoing of routes.


Starting on the far west side under the large overhanging section look for an crack that splits the face left to right. To the right of this crack is the first new line.

1. 60 Degrees 11d/12a? Climb the overhanging face to the next big roof. 30m 14 clips. 5.11d. Pitch 2 climb out right through roof onto slab and then pull the last big roof to the chains. 12a? 11 clips
one 60m rope will get you off with 2 raps. I have not tried 2 ropes yet but you may be able to get off with them.
This line has only seen one ascent so far so feedback would be great.

2. Crash test Dummies. 5.11d A sick trad line that never gets climb.
located to the right of 60 degrees. Start on the ledge 20' off the deck and and is also a good belay spot.
14 bolts drilled on lead now protect this line. 30m

3. Mashed Potatoes 5.12a Start the same as Crash but at the bulg climb out right 12 clips. same belay as Crash. Great climbing.

4. Retro'ed Hardman. 5.11b Retro Hardman is now a sport route.
Another desperate trad line turned sport. 14 clips 31m (rope comes a little short to the ground) bring some long draws to reduce rope drag.

5. Febuary summer 5.9 A great warm up or just a nice route to climb.
Start just up the hill next to 420 by the broken tree. (I did not do It)
climb past 10 bolts to the top.

And don't forget to try "Burn Tough", The feedback I have recieved on this route has it ranked as one of the best 5.11's in the canyon.

A correction on the Wastach North Guide on Agua Velvet and THC
THC is 12a and not 11a like in the book the ratings are mixed up, Agua Velvet is 11a.
So sorry to anyone that has been sandbaged on that line.

This used to be called Tree Trimmer Wall. Spring Feed was called Nothing But Rock W/O bolts, and was FA'd in 94, as a 5.8. The face climb is new and good, although I would rate it a 5.10b maybe 5.10c.

On the SW face of Aquaduct Wall are 2 new bolted routes. I have climbed these both. Left route 5.11a, right route 5.10c. I was wondering if either the FA wanted to share their info, or others that have climbed them. Thanks in advance

I climbed day as night and fall equinox last night for the first time.
Day as night is pretty fun and once all loose stuff on and around it is gone it will be a *** route for sure.
Fall Equinox on the other hand was an ok warm-up, but pretty much just a "ticker" - climb never really seems to flow at all. I wouldn't even give it a * (disclaimer: no dis meant on the route developer - just personally didn't thrill me).

climbed Spring Feed, Water Crest, Killer Bees and Big Easy yesterday; so nice to watch all the crowds headin' to the known routes and just walk up to these newbies and hop right on. The beta?

Spring Feed: 6 bolts my ass!! unless I missed one - nice runout between 4 and 5. basically just another arete onto a smaooooth face

Water Crest: 6 bolts. first roof is a 10b (taken to the left) or c (taken to the right) upper bulge is a 10a (to the left) or 10d/11a (taken to the right). lil dirty at the bottom, but grippy. watch out for the raspberry bush on belay down

Killer Bees: most fun of the new routes so far. when gets a little cleaner will be a *** for sure. a couple of loose holds on it - watch out. step out onto the upper face as soon as you can for the thriller part of it. wild flake for the upper moves.

The Big Easy: 9 move felt like it was right off the ground. some loose rock on this one as well. long and flows nicely. look for its chains from the parking pullout across from Challenge Buttress otherwise you'll never find it.

Hopefully gonna hit Retrobution and the new 9 by 420 this week and will report back.

Thanks to the developers for some new routes to play on!!!

anyone know anythingabout that new route just right of chambered nautilus on the challenge buttress? long, bolts where you want them, great for an easy sport route. felt about 5.4 or 5.5 - it definitey looked like it might be harder from the ground.

How is drilling quartzite on lead?

Climbed it last night. Kinda an ok route. Some issues:

Bit of a squeeze. Was an established route an arm length (or less) away in the corner to the left. Very easy to climb the bolted line on the natural pro from the corner. Very easy.

Second bolt, IMHO, is too high. If a fledgling 5.5 leader falls below it, will be a ground fall. My recommendation is to move it about 4 feet lower (still solid rock) then add another between the new location and the 3rd bolt.

Chains....paint 'em. Rustoleum makes a primer for galvanized/zinc plated hardware and it works well. Bit of an eyesore (but, really nice length and set up well). Ditto the replaced chain and rings on Chambered Nautilus (and, thanks to whoever is doing these types of upgrades...very very nice!).

Minor rant...hangers could have been all painted.

Also, not sure how good it is to mix grade 5 Powerbolts with stainless hangers. That makes the bolt the material doner in a galvanic situation. I don't have a feel for what this will do, long term. I've pulled a 13 year old bolt on another route nearby (also a grade 5 power bolt on an old Rawl hanger, replaced both). Material loss from corrosion was very minimal on the bolt and it seemed like it'd have a bunch of life left. Anyhoo, mixin' and matchin' might not be a good idea. Better to match stainless with stainless, grade 5 with plated, IMO. No data to back this up, however.

Anyhoo, its a nice route and will see some traffic. Bit dirty, especially after the rain the prior evening, but...will clean up and rock seems pretty darn solid.

So...who put this up?

Just to clarify. This is a route that Scott Keller and I did. FA pics

I went up and did Weedkiller again this morning just before it rained. I haven't seen anything about the climbing above it posted in this forum, so here's something worthwhile..

A year or two ago I climbed the extension to it put up by James Garrett called "WeedBeGone" and it was really cool. It makes two very long pitches of .11-ish mixed climbing with another very short, harder pitch above to top out. The upper part of weedbegone has a couple of fun roofs that are .11-ish (I think - it'd be cool to hear what someone else thinks about it) with the first being larger and a little awkward if you stay in the crack and the smaller feeling harder to me. I didn't see the bolts on the first roof till I was way into it, and back cleaning my gear lessened the rope drag a lot. The second was all gear and had fun slopers to pull through on.

This route is not in the book and its hard to visualize the location from the topo on the weedkiller page. We walked down, however it looks like you'd need two ropes to rap down to Weedkiller (or scope out the several rap stations on that part of the wall beforehand.)

Hello everyone.

This is a great discussion. I have really enjoyed most of these routes. It is great to see new development in BCC, and real quality routes none the less. I am looking for info on a new line on the challenge buttress west face. It is to the right of and above Winky and Waxmen Go Bolting. It goes to the top of the buttress, is all bolted with chain anchors. Felt like an easy 10. Any info on name or rating would be appreciated, or if you haven't noticed it or climbed yet, give it a shot, it is areally good addition to an already great crag. Later, Craig.