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BCC - Page 3 - Utahclimbers.com

BCC

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Postby mike m » Fri Sep 16, 2005 9:12 am


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Postby etrier » Fri Sep 16, 2005 1:57 pm


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Postby etrier » Sat Oct 01, 2005 7:39 am

Yo, Brian in Salt lake,
Just installed the chains on DDD in Mule Hollow. Yes, the rap from the tree ledge is a tad short, but I could still clip my daisy into the next anchor. It could be extended in the future if you believe it is still overwhelmingly hazardous. A 70m rope would be the ticket....Beginners must use a bit of caution there and be sure to tie knots on the ends of the ropes. I would feel horrible if someone rapped off the ends of their ropes!...but it all seemed pretty casual to me and certainly alot more straight forward than walking off.

For yuks, I climbed the whole thing with just QDs and no gear...it certainly felt run out, but then well protected in the "hard" sections. I never noticed a "line of bolts" strung together? The bolt in the divet you mentioned? I don't really see a problem with it. I never did find a bolt to protect the last short pitch. Did I really put one there? A small rack can zip this thing up, but many placements require some creativity (read excellent learning vehicle!) Following the bolts, one climbs on denser and more compact rock than if one follows "the natural line" which doesn't always give the most interesting moves in my opinion. In the end, I feel it stands out as a great beginner climb on a "longer" line and gives the beginning leader a chance to place gear to back up bolts in thse runouts on a multipitch agenda. It may very well remain boring for the experienced more skilled climber...but I notice the reservoir ridge routes seem to get more traffic than almost anything in BCC these days!
What a beautiful, serene, and quiet place to climb in the Wasatch!

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Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:55 pm


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Postby Tenesmus » Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:38 am


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Postby mike m » Tue Jul 25, 2006 3:35 pm


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Postby Tenesmus » Tue Aug 22, 2006 10:26 pm

New route at Moss Ledges: Salmonella. FA Clay Watson and Tyler Phillips
This is a super fun traversing crack system with several cruxes and good rests.
Location
Out of the creek bed about 20 -30 feet upstream from the bolts of Hibatchi time. Look up and left at the anchors of Burning Embers with big fatty chains from which to TR and project that really fun climb. The crack system diaganols up and under a series of roofs for 80? or so feet.
Protection
Set of cams from tcu's up to hand sized with maybe an extra medium cam or two around orange tcu through .5 or .75 camalot. Long runners I also used two old style #4 camalots but would have liked a #5 for the last 10 feet. It isn't mandatory, but would be nice. You could get away with a second #3 in place of one of the #4's. Don't be afraid of the large sizes because you use the crack like a jug rail as you traverse up and right. Just think of it as an excuse to drag those big cams that you paid all that money for and haven't actually used in several years. I think a 60m rope would work, but I used a 70.


So, I'd like to note that Moss Ledges now has two 5.9's that are really fun, a .10c, a .10d, an .11a and a .12a/b. The area is filling out nicely and makes a nice place to spend a shady afternoon or a freezing summer morning (it was 58 and windy when I got out of the car this morning). Who says its too hot to climb in the wasatch in the summer? Can't say enough about how much fun those routes up there are. It looks like utter freaking choss but it climbs really fun. Especially if you are a sport climber breaking into trad and looking for a place to work out your gear placements.

oh, and I posted
at mountainproject too.

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Possible New Route at Challenge Buttress East Face

Postby gkapper » Thu Oct 26, 2006 7:09 pm


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Postby mike m » Thu May 24, 2007 12:35 pm


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its uh ok.

Postby grk10vq » Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:38 am

like me on facebook

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Postby Tenesmus » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:16 pm

Ha! Many a climber has said something to the same effect. One friend said it best with, "This place looks like utter fucking choss... But it climbs REALLY WELL!"

Glad you liked it. I thought the steepness on that route was the best part and if you liked it you'd really like Salmonella because its basically 80 feet of that roof system. You start 30' to the right. Full details on mountainproject.

For that matter, Burning Embers is the best line up there. Its fairly steep, protects very well and climbs even better. I'll go with you if you want a tour.

In fact, I've been wanting to do a clean up day there and help with the access issues some. I'll post up later.

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clean knee clee ny

Postby grk10vq » Tue Jul 10, 2007 11:56 pm

like me on facebook

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Re: Possible New Route at Challenge Buttress East Face

Postby price1869 » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:15 am

12 fans, the exact number of dudes still posting on this chossy website.

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Re: Mule Hollow Wall

Postby BackClip » Wed Oct 08, 2008 10:48 am


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Re: BCC

Postby etrier » Thu Apr 15, 2010 9:53 am

Regarding DDD and the above comments now seem to be proven incorrect. All the mileage this thing seems to get IS from Newbies who seem comfortable with how it is equipped. The only critiques I hear about this route stems from the 5.12+ crowd...which is cool in itself that they are up there in the first place on this 5.7 line. Thanks for the compliments!


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