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Main Hellgate - info needed - Utahclimbers.com

Main Hellgate - info needed

Moderator: Shaft

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boissal
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Main Hellgate - info needed

Postby boissal » Tue Sep 20, 2011 1:25 pm

Any info on these 3 lines?



I could see 7 or 8 bolts on the two routes to the right, lost them at a bulgy section up high. They seem to shoot for the slabby headwall. Newer bolt, closely bolted, looked to be about 5.9ish at the start.

I spotted only 3 bolts on the line to the left but it seemed to be heading up the black streak to meet with Devil's Den (5.7, in the book, rightmost line on the main wall).

Inquiring minds want to know.
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LUKED
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Re: Main Hellgate - info needed

Postby LUKED » Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:56 pm

The two right lines by tower 3 I believe to be old Martinez lines. The Spawn .10a is the left line and Monkey Paw .9+ is the right line There were 5 lines out there. We stripped 3 and generally avoid the other two due to repeated near death experiences.
You should get on it!!! :D


If you are still alive go check out the main Hellgate slide path to the left of Fossils. Two Martinez routes and several old routes as well. Due to a series of fins you cannot anticipate which way the rock fall will go until the last minute. Go here when you are lucky and stocked up on karma.

To the left of climb 31 and the right of Fossils From Hell is Devil Goat. Three or four piches up to .11a. Not so deadly ,but plenty of exposure.
Last edited by LUKED on Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: Main Hellgate - info needed

Postby boissal » Tue Sep 20, 2011 3:32 pm

HELL YES!
Thanks Luke, I'll be sure to retrofit my helmet with a very large plastic brim and get after it. If you have any more info that you'd care to share, I wouldn't mind knowing the number/length of pitches, anchors, etc... Wouldn't want to get on something with 12 draws and realize 200' up that it's one of those "bring knifeblades. No anchors" like some of its neighbors to the left.

Is Devil Goat to the L or R of Dante, the old aid line? I'm climbing it just because of the name. Might bring horns for the helmet too!
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Re: Main Hellgate - info needed

Postby ZOSO » Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:44 pm

Gotta say Luke I really enjoyed those lines on the right while they were there. It was a pinball dodge-fest the entire time though, and I agree with their removal.

Somethin bout the Gate that attracts me personally. Why do I gravitate to choss? Oh yeah, gives me excuses.

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Re: Main Hellgate - info needed

Postby LUKED » Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:11 pm

I forget the bolt count on The Spawn but Monkey Paw has about 9 bolts and both are single pitch and share chain anchors. Good rock.
Left hand side of the main slide path ampitheatre are Weirdo .10c 9 bolts and to its right Coo Coo's Nest .11a 10 bolts (Sweet finish) they share chain anchors. There are 4 or 5 older routes out there too but bring gear for those. Really cool visual effects hangin out in that place.
Devil Goat .11a - Find Dante. It is above the second belay bolt you come accross if hiking from the towers and you are passed Hell Raiser. Climb the first pitch of Dante. Bring hands and fist gear for that pitch. Move left about 40 feet on the ledge. Climb the bolt line to chains. 1 pitch. Once you climb this pitch it is easy to discern the giant flake the pitch follows from the road. Doubt this thing sees much if any traffic in the 8 or so years it has been there and I have not climbed it since. Cool pitch though. Should be a real limestony treat.

If at any time on these lines you find yourself wishing for a knifeblade lift your plastic brim out of your eyes and get on the correct route.
I would discourage the helmet horn. It might intimidate or provoke the Devil Goat, and she will attack.

Alright thats the teaser. Anymore is gonna cost.

Zoso, I agree. Great rock there just not worth the risk.


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