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Arcane Tower -- On a Bender - Utahclimbers.com

Arcane Tower -- On a Bender

Moderator: Shaft

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crackroach
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Arcane Tower -- On a Bender

Postby crackroach » Mon Oct 31, 2005 6:37 pm

On a Bender 5.11 A2

FA: Oct 24, 2005

Approach: Drive 3.5-4 miles south of the bridge over the San Rafael River toward I-70. Turn right (west) on a marked 4x4 road. Follow this very rough road (no passenger cars) for a couple of miles as it passes an old mine and a shot-up old car and truck. Soon, you'll reach the enterance to Cane Wash. Here you face an ethical quandry. The Wash is often signed as off limits to vehicles. However, this sign is frequently missing and it's obvious that it is frequently used by ATVs. Either park and hike or keep driving. I made the drive before the signs were there and it doesn't seem environmentally damaging, but I've also done the hike too. Anyway, coninue for about 2-2.5 miles until you see the obvious tower.



Keep going longer than you think until you almost go around a bend in the wash. This allows an easy scramble through the first cliff band. Once through the cliff band, head to the left of the tower and approach up a gully littered with boulders (this is far easier than the loose approach on the right of the route). At the top of the gully, traverse right around to the sunny side of the tower and find the nice looking dihedral that is the start.

Route Description:

Pitch 1: Start with ackward hands up to a good rest (5.10). Be careful with your gear, there is a decent amount of calcite in the crack. Without tape, this section would maul your hands. Continue with overhanging thin hands to a fingery crux (5.11). Pull into wider terain and use face holds and crack to finish (5.9+). The anchors are on the left wall (a bad bolt is on the right wall). Gear: (3) #3 friends, (1) #2.5 friend, (1) #1 camalot, (2) #2 Friends, (1) Green Camalot, (1) #1.5 friend, (1) yellow TCU, (1) green alien, (1) #5 friend, (1) #4 friend, (2) #3.5 friends Pitchi Lenght: Approximately 30 meters.

Pitch 2: Aid past bolts and bat hook holes to a steep aid seam and a couple more bolts and mantel onto the cool summit. Gear: Small cams (smaller than Green Camalot), offset nuts, bat hook, a couple of pins (this may go clean now...we only placed one pin, and the scar may take a nut now). Pitch lenght, approximately 20 meters.

Descent: Take webbing to extend the achor over the first edge and rap directly down toward the first pitch anchor. You could do this in 2 raps or one long double-rope rap. (On the first ascent, we rapped into the notch and had a tough time pulling the ropes and the rope got stuck int he notch crack. Rapping down the route would prevent this.)

If you have time left over, check out some routes on the other side of the canyon, up about 1/4 mile. Citizen Cane has to be the best thin hands splitter in the Desert.

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Postby BackClip » Wed Nov 02, 2005 8:41 am


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Postby desert_tower » Mon Nov 07, 2005 1:04 pm

Update:

Andy Chapman and Craig Patterson bagged the 2nd ascent last weekend.



crackroach wrote: this may go clean now...we only placed one pin.

Well...maybe not quite yet. According to Andy, HB's wouldn't go. He placed a lost arrow, but ripped it and a few HBs in a fall. Maybe a Pika toucan would work better since the rock is kind of soft in that one spot. Right now the 2nd pitch is as follows:

Bolt ladder (6 bolts and one bat hook hole) to a C1-C1+ crack (TCUs/Aliens/HBs), to a single A2 placement...to a bolt and a few moves to the summit.

Its spicey and takes a little aid trickery, but well protected and worth doing.

Also, Andy and Craig redirected the anchor and did a single ~55m rap down the route (SE corner) without issue.

There is also a summit register...

More photos at:
http://flickr.com/photos/rossdu/

Chris
Last edited by desert_tower on Tue Nov 08, 2005 12:26 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Postby etrier » Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:32 pm


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Postby crackroach » Mon Nov 07, 2005 7:41 pm


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Postby etrier » Tue Nov 08, 2005 11:53 am

thanks for the info on Arcane. Know what you mean about potential...i did the FA of the Wiesel...and i probably showed him that route.

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Postby crackroach » Tue Nov 08, 2005 3:00 pm


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Postby joe » Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:27 am


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Postby crackroach » Mon Nov 27, 2006 11:41 am


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Postby joe » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:36 pm

i don't think i've been to cane wash. there's so much stuff closer to me that it makes it hard to drive the measley two hours to get to the swell.

found a few undone splitters up bull canyon a couple of days ago...




all less than a five minute hike from the road. hopefully i can borrow somebody's drill this week.

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Postby crackroach » Mon Nov 27, 2006 1:47 pm

Good luck. Looks fun. I don't have a clue where Bull Canyon is, but that's probably good. No temptation!

If you can't find a drill, drop me a line. Mine is all charged up. I'm just not sure when I'll be able to get down there next.[/code]


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