All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches!
WI 5, M6 R ~350 ft.
FA Chris Thomas and Rick Vance, 1/2008
Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location.
Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed. (WI3ish, ~150 ft.)
Pitch Two: Climb very thin ice and rock up a vertical step to get to the beautiful smear dripping down the corner. Climb the thin, engaging, slightly run out smear up to a sheltered alcove. A few stubbies can be placed toward the top of the pitch, and you can get some rock gear at the bottom. Save a #3 camalot, for the belay. A new #4 or an old 3.5 would work even better. An AMAZING pitch - great exposure and position! Same as pitch one: in thicker conditions this pitch would offer very solild pro. (WI 4+, M6 R, ~100 ft.)
Pitch Three: Climb a few feet down and right and make some balancy mixed moves to reach the hanging smear. Commit to the vertical ice and climb over a steep bulge to the top. We left a few slings around a bush on top of the buttress. It's not very sustained, but bouldery. (WI 5, M6 ~100 ft.)
Pitch Three variation: From the belay, climb straight up and over an overhanging rock step with a few patches of ice and frozen moss. M6.
Descent: make two double rope raps back to the base of the route.
Bring a Set of cams from #.4 to #3 Camalots, stubby ice screws, 5 pins. Two 60 meter ropes.