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LCC - Page 5 - Utahclimbers.com

LCC

Moderator: Shaft

pinkpointingpussy
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Postby pinkpointingpussy » Thu Nov 01, 2007 4:17 pm

Fins and Needles, First Free Ascent
FA with aid: Stuart Ruckman and Gordon Douglas 1986
FFA: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna 10/2007

Location: From the Dorsal Fin/Dark Horse area on the Fin, traverse around to the east. Climb a long scrambly approach pitch up and right, starting with a chicken head crack, and finishing with some low angle slab climbing on a ramp. Belay at the end of this ramp, and the crack will be obvious above you.

Great route with good rock, once it gets climbed a few times it'll clean up a little more and be a classic. STEEP (for LCC...) fingers, hands, and liebacking in an overhaning dihedral. .12bish

Rack: Set of TCUs, double set of cams from #.3 to #2 C4
FFA done with pre-placed gear - this route still awaits a full repoint ascent while placing all of the pro

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jonathan knight
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Postby jonathan knight » Thu Nov 08, 2007 7:06 pm

It's another kick ass, lcc crack. Chewed me up and spit me out. It will be nice to go back and do some more scrubbing once my left side heals up.

pinkpointingpussy
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Postby pinkpointingpussy » Mon Jan 28, 2008 2:44 pm

New Route:
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches!
WI 5, M6 R ~350 ft.
FA Chris Thomas and Rick Vance, 1/2008

Named after watching the daily gong show on the GWI from across the road. We spotted 6 separate parties on the ice bombing each other, and one more descending, all at the same time! Entertainment at it's finest! See photo for details on the location.



Pitch One: Climb a low angle ice smear up to the headwall and belay on some old bolts from a summer rock route. Very moderate climbing, but unprotectable in the conditions that we found. In thicker conditions, solid pro may be able to be placed. (WI3ish, ~150 ft.)

Pitch Two: Climb very thin ice and rock up a vertical step to get to the beautiful smear dripping down the corner. Climb the thin, engaging, slightly run out smear up to a sheltered alcove. A few stubbies can be placed toward the top of the pitch, and you can get some rock gear at the bottom. Save a #3 camalot, for the belay. A new #4 or an old 3.5 would work even better. An AMAZING pitch - great exposure and position! Same as pitch one: in thicker conditions this pitch would offer very solild pro. (WI 4+, M6 R, ~100 ft.)





Pitch Three: Climb a few feet down and right and make some balancy mixed moves to reach the hanging smear. Commit to the vertical ice and climb over a steep bulge to the top. We left a few slings around a bush on top of the buttress. It's not very sustained, but bouldery. (WI 5, M6 ~100 ft.)





Pitch Three variation: From the belay, climb straight up and over an overhanging rock step with a few patches of ice and frozen moss. M6.

Descent: make two double rope raps back to the base of the route.

Bring a Set of cams from #.4 to #3 Camalots, stubby ice screws, 5 pins. Two 60 meter ropes.

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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Mon Jan 28, 2008 7:14 pm

awesome shit, bishez.

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Alpinian
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Postby Alpinian » Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:32 am



Brilliant!

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boissal
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Postby boissal » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:40 am

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

halfling
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Postby halfling » Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:16 am

Unreported crappy route:

This could be old worthless information, it has been many years since I've been to LLC.

There is a route called Flash in The Pan. It climbs a short finger crack and then pulls a small roof to avoid a crackless dihedral.

Sometime in the 90s I tried it but got off route and climbed the dihedral. It is a crusty, unprotectable seam.

Most memorable moment; with a ridiculous RP far below me the route got steeper. The foot holds began to break when I stepped off of them and the seam became less positive. Not being able to go down, it was do or die to make it to the top. Fortunately, I made it.

If this was an FA then I'd like to name it "Superb" which is a purely sarcastic name

I thought it was 5.9
0 stars
It is either an R or X route
There isn't a fixed anchor

This is not a good climb

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grk10vq
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for the love of god! what was the p0int of this!

Postby grk10vq » Mon Feb 25, 2008 12:45 pm

Unreported crappy route: there was a good reason for that.

This could be old worthless information, it has been many years since I've been to LLC. please stick to what you're good at, which is waving and crossing dams in joe's valley

There is a route called Flash in The Pan. It climbs a short finger crack and then pulls a small roof to avoid a crackless dihedral.

Sometime in the 90s I tried it but got off route and climbed the dihedral. It is a crusty, unprotectable seam. maybe you should've went bowling.

Most memorable moment; with a ridiculous RP far below me the route got steeper. The foot holds began to break when I stepped off of them and the seam became less positive. Not being able to go down, it was do or die to make it to the top. Fortunately, I made it. . . . no comment.

If this was an FA then I'd like to name it "Superb" which is a purely sarcastic name. may i suggest you name it "complete and total worthless disaster"

I thought it was 5.9 5.7-
0 stars like your post
It is either an R or X route sounds fantastic
There isn't a fixed anchor whoo! even better

This is not a good climb thanks for nothing
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halfling
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Postby halfling » Mon Feb 25, 2008 1:13 pm

What about climbing history?

Did you really climb it? Why did you do it?

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triznut
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Postby triznut » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:48 pm


halfling
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Postby halfling » Mon Feb 25, 2008 3:56 pm


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grk10vq
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Postby grk10vq » Mon Feb 25, 2008 4:42 pm

like me on facebook

halfling
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Postby halfling » Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:24 am

climbing history is the first ascent of the the thumb. true
climbing history is fighting your way up the fin. although epic, you didn't make history here
climbing history is not some bumpkis in lcc who can't read a topo. nice spray, but I didn't have one hence the error

Spray is stupid. I bet you have more waiting. Why fill up this topic with your refuse?

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grk10vq
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i'm not claiming to have made history lost boy.

Postby grk10vq » Tue Feb 26, 2008 5:38 pm

you're going to have to say that again? almost every time you post this is all i see:

like me on facebook

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Postby halfling » Wed Feb 27, 2008 8:04 am



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