The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches. First Ascent: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007
The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing people that they were.
Location. On the Black Peeler Buttress, about 100 yards right of the Direct Peeler route. See photo:
Pitch one: Climb the first pitch of Orangutan Afternoon. Climb the large right facing corner until it ends, and then step across to a ledge with chains. 5.10. ~ 100 feet
Pitch two: Traverse left from the belay and pull around a small roof to gain a left facing corner. It is possible to escape right after just a few feet of the corner, but for better quality climbing continue up the corner to an under cling flake and the short bouldery crux of the pitch. 5.10c. ~ 80 feet
Rick leading pitch 2:
Pitch three: The money pitch. Climb the striking, overhanging, flake/crack up the orange and black streaked wall. This pitch starts hard and keeps coming at you until the end. 5.12c. ~ 80 feet
Pitch four: Move the belay to the base of the overhanging finger crack. Lieback, jam, thrutch, and curse your way up the steep tips crack. At the roof, go left. A #4 Camalot is nice here. Belay anchors are up and to the right on a ramp. 5.11c. ~50 feet. (Note: we believe that this pitch has been aid climbed before, but never freed. The base of it is accessible from the top of the Peeler Direct Route)
Alternative to Pitch Four: Scramble up the low angled ramp from the base of the .11c variation and climb a very high quality 5.8 hand crack to the anchors.
Descend with one 70 meter rope. Skip the rappel anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch and go all the way to the top of the first pitch. A 60 meter rope is workable with some trickery.
Thanks to Andrew Burr for supplying the photos. www.andrewburr.com