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LCC - Page 4 - Utahclimbers.com

LCC

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grk10vq
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what evs

Postby grk10vq » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:09 pm

like me on facebook

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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:52 pm

there is no denying that this boulder is green.




and there is no denying that this arete is blunted.

nevermind what i said before,

just try to be quiet when you go to the Killer Green Boulder.

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jun
S to the P to the R to the A to the Y
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Postby jun » Wed Apr 25, 2007 8:38 am

it looks like you photochopped doughy in there
Up, way up.

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PunchKing
mullet baitfish
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Postby PunchKing » Wed Apr 25, 2007 9:05 am

And feed him a lemon!

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Postby Doughy » Thu May 03, 2007 3:19 pm


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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Fri May 04, 2007 12:05 am


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Tenesmus
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Re: New Route in Green A. gully

Postby Tenesmus » Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:12 am


mb
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Postby mb » Tue Jul 10, 2007 10:41 am


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Postby Tenesmus » Tue Jul 10, 2007 9:25 pm


mb
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Postby mb » Wed Jul 11, 2007 10:02 am


pinkpointingpussy
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Postby pinkpointingpussy » Tue Sep 18, 2007 9:31 pm

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches. First Ascent: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing people that they were.

Location. On the Black Peeler Buttress, about 100 yards right of the Direct Peeler route. See photo:


Pitch one: Climb the first pitch of Orangutan Afternoon. Climb the large right facing corner until it ends, and then step across to a ledge with chains. 5.10. ~ 100 feet

Pitch two: Traverse left from the belay and pull around a small roof to gain a left facing corner. It is possible to escape right after just a few feet of the corner, but for better quality climbing continue up the corner to an under cling flake and the short bouldery crux of the pitch. 5.10c. ~ 80 feet
Rick leading pitch 2:


Chris following:


Pitch three: The money pitch. Climb the striking, overhanging, flake/crack up the orange and black streaked wall. This pitch starts hard and keeps coming at you until the end. 5.12c. ~ 80 feet








Pitch four: Move the belay to the base of the overhanging finger crack. Lieback, jam, thrutch, and curse your way up the steep tips crack. At the roof, go left. A #4 Camalot is nice here. Belay anchors are up and to the right on a ramp. 5.11c. ~50 feet. (Note: we believe that this pitch has been aid climbed before, but never freed. The base of it is accessible from the top of the Peeler Direct Route)



Alternative to Pitch Four: Scramble up the low angled ramp from the base of the .11c variation and climb a very high quality 5.8 hand crack to the anchors.

Descend with one 70 meter rope. Skip the rappel anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch and go all the way to the top of the first pitch. A 60 meter rope is workable with some trickery.

Thanks to Andrew Burr for supplying the photos. www.andrewburr.com

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sevrdhed
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Postby sevrdhed » Wed Sep 19, 2007 6:36 am

Rad. The crux pitch looks fuggin hard.

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Tenesmus
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Postby Tenesmus » Wed Sep 19, 2007 7:38 am

Nice work by the red team! Looks like a nice line.

JP
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Postby JP » Wed Sep 19, 2007 8:17 am

this is why I boulder

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200#gorilla
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Postby 200#gorilla » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:20 am

inspiring line, nice tribute, killer photos.

were your friends, or yourselves graduates of USC?

Redskin fans?


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