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Ibex - The Eastside - Utahclimbers.com

Ibex - The Eastside

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Ibex - The Eastside

Postby Garfmog » Sun Oct 10, 2004 2:46 am

Myself and two friends from California spent 2 weeks out at Ibex May of last year. Rest days are completely off the grid out there so we went hiking. We found the rest of the crag, and I made an exciting video.

https://vimeo.com/5432505

Overview:

To Get to The Zero Point Field, turn south off of Hwy. 6/50 at mile 43.2. The boulders are visible from Hwy. 6, but they look tiny. The road is usually pretty good dirt. Drive 2.3 miles and park (look west - it's obvious). Hike west 10 minutes or so to the beginning of the field. If you keep walking west a couple hundred meters further, you'll be on top the ridge that you can see from the Main Area. A boulder on this ridge is visible from both the Main Area and the Zero Point Field. There is an optional road with a fixed truck a bit further south. It's not very good, but it will get you closer to the west side of The Zero Point Field. Note the crop circles. Unless they're gone, that is.

Zero Point Field topo:

bro


The Hand is 4.1 miles south of Hwy. 6/50 off the same road as The Zero Point Field. You'll see an erratic boulder about 200m to the east of this dirt road and a hill. The Hand is on top of the hill out of view of the road. It kinda looks a bit like a foot, but calling a boulder, "The Foot" seemed even more stupid than calling it "The Hand." One-stop shopping. When you go to The Hand do not go with calm.

Hand topo:

If you continue on that road there's a campsite and a huge boulder to deflect the wind. On the SE corner of said boulder is a sit-start problem called, "The Panty Line." On the north face of the same boulder is a problem called, "Bouldering is Neither." It starts above a shrub. Further down that road you will see a rock-strewn wind-caressed heap. It has low potential, and we did nothing there. For kicks continue south on this same road (referring to your UT Gazateer - parallelling left of the word, "Hills" in "Black Hills" on the obviously curvy road) and go through Steamboat Pass. 4WD. Freaky canyon in the absolute middle of nowhere. Quite unexpected.

Page 157 - A Bouldering Guide to UT addendum: This is the Sunnyside of the Tule Valley, and you can easily see it from the Main Area. There is a road that you'll want a bit of ground clearance for that busts east off the dirt highway just north of The Topus, The road is not indicated in the guidebook, and it's very easy to miss. Take it until the obvious parking area when the road vanishes. Hike 20 minutes or so to the House-sized boulder (the one you can see from the Main Area). There're a couple of keen boulders on the backside of the hill east of the House, and the Next Best Thing is SE of the House behind a ridge.

Sunnyside topo:

There are also some new difficult gripcourses at Candyland. Page 180 - A Bouldering Guide to UT: 3m or so left of #14 Shaolin Buddah Finger, is The Illudium PU-36 Explosive Space Modulator (high stand start).

Also on page 183 - A Bouldering Guide to UT:
Problems 1 & 2 are transposed.
#5 "Slave 32" has a direct start called "Lick the Bag." One big move to the break, and then go up.
"The Crusades" - start on "Splockhead" and traverse the break finishing on "The Flogiston."
When will the Crusades end (aka. how did our oil get under their sand)?

With my cutting-edge topos you will easily be able to translocate the areas. If you can't figure out which is what from there, don't worry about it. If it looks good, grapple it. If you've already done any of these lines, I apologize for my usurping of your glory.
Last edited by Garfmog on Thu Dec 20, 2018 10:29 am, edited 5 times in total.

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Postby mc » Sun Oct 10, 2004 9:37 am

Oh my.


You've been busy little beaver, haven't you.

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Postby mc » Sun Oct 10, 2004 9:38 am

the pan galactic gargle blaster is no small boulder.

jeeeebus.

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Postby BackClip » Wed Oct 13, 2004 6:57 pm

Well its not bouldering but.
New IBEX rotue: just right of the Long Shadow is the Shamrock Scare Buttress, the one w/ the wild looking wind scuplted roofs.
Ripcurl 5.12a. Fa. T. Phillips, James and Franzika Garrett; Sept 30,04
The route was drilled on lead, the first pitch starts next to the major cleft seperating the Shadow buttress from the Shamrock Scare Buttress ( you can see the chains on the first pitch of the Long Shadow if you look south from the base of the route). First clip is about 10ft. from the ground go up passing 3 clips to a #.75 camalot then another bolt and natural pro to the two bolt anchor. (11a)Pitch 2: climb directly above belay passing 2 bolts to a ledge from the ledge make super bouldery moves (12a) passing more bolts and a bomber #1 Metolius palcement to the huge party ledge under "the curl". Pitch 3: Climb the right side of the curl passing four bolts to another nice belay ledge under a roof.(10d) Pitch 4: Climb out left of the roof using small holds and wierd feet (12a) all bolts. Rap the route. The buttress was unclimbed until this ascent. When we awoke in the morning we were greeted by 4 dump trucks w/ trailers and a crane. They were there to take samples of the rock and sand, we were told that the area has perfect slica for making glass. They drove the crane over to the Childeren of the Corn and took a huge scoop. The name of the company who was ruining our day was Shamrock mining company. They took one scoop and left, sayng "it wasn't worth it", who knows, lets hope they don't return....
Last edited by BackClip on Thu Oct 21, 2004 9:41 am, edited 2 times in total.

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Postby BackClip » Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:00 pm

New route: Shamrock Scare Buttress
To the left of the start of Ripcurl is Totally Tubeular 5.9+.
Start things off w/ a #3 camalot then launch up passing 8 bolts to the same anchor as the first pitch of Ripcurl. The first ascent was rope soloed.
Fa. T. Phillips Oct.1, 2004

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Strong work, dude!

Postby etrier » Thu Oct 21, 2004 12:25 am

T,
Strong work!
Texas Tower Tim Toula is psyched that Ripcurl will rock his world in the coming days.
Franziska is anxious to do Totally Tubular...man, what a wave that thing is up high!
G

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Re: Strong work, dude!

Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Oct 21, 2004 8:27 am


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Postby BackClip » Wed Jun 22, 2005 8:36 am

Sorry still not bouldering..
New route on the Madness buttress. Cleavland Steamer 5.12- F.a. T. Phillips, T. Anderson 6/13/05

This awsome route climbs the right hand arete of the buttress. Its 3 pitches long, 2 are 5.12-, and the first one is 5.10-. Bring a light rack up to #2 camalot for the OUTSTANDING crack on pitch 3 ( crack is about 5.10-). Route goes to the top of the buttress.
Last edited by BackClip on Wed Oct 19, 2005 8:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Postby manyo » Wed Jun 22, 2005 9:36 am

are you telling us that Tiny is climbing 5.12?

i don't belive it.

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Postby BackClip » Wed Jun 22, 2005 10:39 am

Tiny is cranking these days , yo :D . Ok maybe he yarded on a few draws following the pitches, but he was the belay bitch fer the FA.

It still blows my mind that there are never any roped parties playing at Ibex. That rock is hands down MY fav.

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Postby BackClip » Wed Oct 19, 2005 8:48 am

Oh shit, still not bouldering.
New Route: Quartermoon Tower/ Hardpan Heroics 5.12 FA. T. Phillips, Robbie Colbert 10/17/05 w/ help equipping from Jon Starr & Kristine Balaz

The route starts about 40-50 feet north ( same shelf) from Walkin' The MoonBeam.

P1. Climb really cool features through really steep rock 6 bolts. 5.12

P2. Flirt with the wind scoops past 5 well spaced bolts and a Tcu placement, to a bivi ledge. 5.9+

P3. From party ledge climb obvious left facing corner ( 5.10 ) to a mini bulge, pull bulge on well spaced small pockets with big reaches to summit and Walkin' the MoonBeam anchors. 5.12-.

Go north tag summit, sign register, take a shot of tequillia, thank JG. and walk back to "south summit" and rap the route with 1 70m ( 2 raps back to the base).

Rack: Full rack up to #4 Camalot, be sure to bring a few TCU's (2) #1 Camalots are nice, 12 Qd's.

This route was named from a wicked glow in the dark golf ball war that occured on the hardpan ( it was really, really dark). I was kicking Manho's ass ( with golf balls) when he tackled me. I overturned my aggessor, only to be tackled again by Manho's laywer buddy :lol: , I threw him off with one fell swoop, and gave him some nice hardpan facial scars.

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Postby Brian in SLC » Thu Oct 20, 2005 1:17 am


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Postby BackClip » Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:56 am


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Postby manyo » Thu Oct 20, 2005 9:03 am


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Postby BackClip » Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:07 am



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