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Winter trad climbing in Utah - Utahclimbers.com

Winter trad climbing in Utah

Moderator: Shaft

engineer1984
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Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:29 pm

Hi,

I moved here last December and filled my winter time with skiing which was great, but I guess my addiction is more towards rock climbing. Never tried ice.

What desert location stays warmest the longest? Swell, Moab, Buckhorn Wash, Zion, etc? We went to Red Rocks for New Years and that was good: warm in the day and somewhere in the 30's / 40's at night. Do we have to go that far south?

I don't know all the desert climbing areas, but I'm getting my bearings. Feel free to turn me onto an area I've not mentioned.

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby grk10vq » Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:48 pm

december: best time for local imo



january: st. george



february: ibex



dt.
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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby boissal » Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:29 pm

+1. November/December is LCC season with some sunny BCC thrown in. No better time to crush slabs.
Jan/Feb/Mar is St George and if you keep your eyes on the weather Ibex, the Swell, Moab, the Creek, etc... Red Rock is too far and too full of beaters.
The nights may be painful but the days are worth the effort.

Don't ignore the skiing though, you can't have moved here just for the choss?
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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:39 pm

Thanks for the beta!

Yeah, I fell in love with LCC this summer. Then fall came and we started going to the desert every weekend, then I fell in love with that.

Anyway, I'd love to get Dorsal Fin this year, but I really need to hit up LCC some more to get the ol' balls ready for the heady lead. Climbed Kermit's wall and fell on the .10, then TR'd the .11 next to it and got my butt kicked.. Zoso gave me some good advice on climbs to try get the slab head ready.

This Sunday I'll be going out to LCC. Wahoo!

Do you guys trad climb a lot in BCC? I haven't done any besides Stuart's and Outside Corner... guess I tried quartzite a few times and thought 'F this'. Maybe I just have a bad attitude? Goodro's looks neat, TR'd it way early in the season because I was afraid of the grade, could probably do it now without too much difficulty. I'm rambling.

So St. George is warmer than Moab, Swell, and 'The Wash' down by Lake Powell?

(Skiing is fun, I just totally suck at it since this is going to be only my 2nd season)

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby boissal » Fri Oct 24, 2014 9:42 am

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby ddriver » Sun Oct 26, 2014 11:14 am

BCC trad is way worth the effort. But honestly, what trad isn't?

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby BackClip » Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:04 pm

S-Direct should be a good one this time of year. Also try the Wave of Mutilation. Also most def do the Fin arete before winter hits....sooo good.


Also what do you like better in Red Rocks? Crimping or high stepping?
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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Mon Oct 27, 2014 10:18 pm

Lol, so far my favorite sand stone is in the swell. Need to get on some Moab towers though.

Did Tarzan in lcc Sunday, talk about a one move wonder!

Thanks for the slab beta, s direct is super run out, isn't it. Gonna have to get my balls up to slab par.

Any recommendations for bcc trad in the ten range?

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby boissal » Wed Oct 29, 2014 12:19 pm

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:16 pm

I'm just going to have to repeat to myself "R rated routes are my friend, R rated routes are my friend"

Thanks for the beta, these look really cool. I may do Eleventh Hour this weekend..

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby boissal » Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:36 pm

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Fri Oct 31, 2014 5:43 pm

Just got back from Tingeys terror. Super easy, fun. There were tons of great looking sport lines up there that don't seem to be in the guide book. Bolts everywhere.

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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby tag » Mon Nov 03, 2014 9:03 am


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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby engineer1984 » Mon Nov 03, 2014 4:16 pm

I agree with you about being able to walk 10 slabs if I'm going to have a decent shot at cleaning Dorsal.

Hard to find slab friends, everyone seems (acts like?) to hate it. Going to the Swell this weekend as I have a friend that loves desert climbing and I've become quite fond of it myself too.

I have one partner to go with for slab and we just don't always work out time wise. I need more slab partners that want to do 10's and 11's. I mean, right now I may have to TR some of these, but still..

excuses, excuses, excuses..

How many of you climb slab regularly? As mentioned before I fell at the varnish section of Kermit and I had a hard time with Punany on TR, but if any of you would be up for climbing, I'd be more than happy. I'm not going to pretend I'm a rock God or never get scared or anything. I still haven't tried an .11 in LCC (was supposed to try equipment ovehang this weekend, but weather was supposed to be bad so we stayed in Ogden), but I did pretty well on Static Cling (11a on Wallstreet), not clean, but felt like it would go down... Got absolutely shut down on Scarlet Begonias (11a? in Zion). Actually haven't even tried the classic .10's in LCC because friends and I started visiting the desert on weekends or we end up taking out guys that just want to cruise on some easy stuff. So anyway, tired of talking about myself, starting to feel like a resume.

I get most Fridays off if you need a partner. I'll even be a belay bia on something if you have a hard project you want work, as long as I get to follow / TR. BCC, LCC, Provo 22 pitch sport climb, whatever.

Thanks again for all the beta, everyone is pretty damn helpful on here.

Cheers,

Andy
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Re: Winter trad climbing in Utah

Postby boissal » Mon Nov 03, 2014 5:01 pm

Yo mama's so fat her patronus is cake.


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