My latest GUMBY moment

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grk10vq
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:43 pm

another good one tda!

yesterday i spent a sweet night drinking whiskey and watching baseball w/ an old friend i'll leave nameless.
for the sake of this story lets just give him the intials "EJ"? i'm just sayin?

this gumby moment here involves me, however is not mine to own.

at one point in my life i was on a big bouldering kick; at the same point in my life, I was also on a mission
to tick every route in ferguson. at a similar point in time, "EJ", being a long time and wrongly solid boulderer
was on a mission to climb routes. since bouldering and ferguson almost go hand in hand, i thought sweet!
i'll bring my solid bouldering friend "EJ" up to route climb boulders.

we warm up on a few things, bounce around for a bit, then "EJ" points out this beautiful, spaciously bolted,
arete. he say's "wow! that's beautiful, what's that called?" I say "Fishlips". "we should climb that" says "EJ".

still a bit timid after the year before's bare-bones send, i say "sure!"

what i've forgotten to mention yet, was that "EJ's" life partner at the time was also in attendance, irrelevant
for now, of little importance later, this just adds to my long winded story. anyway, so i rack up w/my two
draws and bring two slings and two hand size pieces for what i sort of remember constituting an anchor at
the top. "EJ" then borrows my gri-gri, and his girlfriend at the time "cd" goes and relaxes under a tree (sleeps).

so i begin the route, tired from the previous day's bouldering and exhausted now from the already large
number of events, i motor through the first ten feet. i flounder to the second bolt, and barely make the
first cruxes moves out of the second bolt! i mean i botched the sequence super hard! I had forgotten the
moves, grabbed a few stinky crimps and half-assed my way through to some rounded crimp just shy of
the solid edge. somehow? i managed to pull off these blown moves, stick to nothing and irk up towards
the arete. slightly embarrassed, but still pulling this off, i gather myself and act like these now inflated
moves through this crux were just more difficult than i had sprayed about. i make the next dynamic move
to the arete, lean back towards the shallow gaston feature, then hop up to the half-rest on the arete. now
stoked, mostly shocked, but still trying to keep my composure (so not to let on how harder those moves
had seemed,), I take a gallant rest, deep breath, and carry-on. oddly enough at this point, no one is cheering
my glory? tough crowd? i mean, man! these guys aren't impressed by that feat of skill (read: luck?) that i
just pulled off? yet they stroked me hard when i sent the .7 just to the right? well whatevs...i'm not in it for
the fame

so in my post flail euphoria, i had noticed now that the nearly asleep "cd" is practically a siamese twin extension
of "EJ". they are together I figure? i resume climbing to the upper ledge.

so i top out, build in anchor in the vertical crack and ask to be lowered. i get lowered to the ground only to be
met by a ghost faced "cd" and "EJ". still psyched on my barely sent repeat of fishlips, i give a "hell yeah" nod to
my two friends!...i get no response.

on the ground now, a few minutes pass when "cd" informs me that "EJ" wants to tell me something? still psyched,
i say "whats up?" "EJ" hesitantly informs me, with his chalk white face, that he had closed and locked the gri-gri
before i started, however, he had neglected to lock the rope through it.
Last edited by grk10vq on Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:16 am, edited 3 times in total.
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tanderson
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby tanderson » Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:05 am

holy crap!

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:21 am

yeah-

to clarify, he put the rope through the gri-gri, but he only locked the biner through one of the gri-gri holes.
they said that they didn't want to tell me because i was cruxing and they thought it would to freak me out?
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby shiho » Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:34 am

Holy crap! That's way scary!

One time, I got on my project, did a crux move, looked down to reach the rope and clip, and saw my rope going down to the ground. Apparently, I forgot to finish my knot. Luckily, I was able to downclimb. I was embarrassed and pissed at myself and immediatly got on another route. I tried to clip the 2nd bolt and fell with rope in my hand. What I learned is that DB is an excellent belayer. DB put me under probation after that for a long time (still?).

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby barstar » Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:05 pm

I can't give location detail on this one because someone might nab upper pitches of my latest ubersweet superclassic LONGEST ROUTE IN THE CANYON project. . . Lets just say it is going to be sweeeeet. This place is so classic I wanted to establish the gem before inviting anyone else who would surely snake my line while I was attending to father duties so I embarked on this project solo (and because no one seems to believe how good my projects are for some reason)

It took multiple trips and a lot of scratched legs and forearms to create a path the LONGEST ROUTE IN THE CANYON (tip: take long rose clippers instead of hand clippers if trimming back scrub oak) Then it took a couple trips and some ropechossolotraversing to get on top of the first pitch tower so I could clean and equip it. What I thought would be done in one day and 10 or so bolts turned into multiple days and more like 13+ bolts to get the most megaclassic first pitch in. From the top of the first, it became obvious the best way to proceed would be to put up the upper pitches ground up and I decide to find a partner.

Usually when I go climbing with tanderson he has something in mind that always turns out to be fun so I just go along to his desired destination and it is always a good day. Surprisingly, though he knows the epic caliber of the rock I like to climb, he usually has some excuse why he can't climb when I invite him to visit my new projects. However, this time I get the "I'll go wherever you want" along with a slew of suggestions for where he would rather go.

It's on! We are going to the LONGEST ROUTE IN THE CANYON. I have a belayer excited to go (suckered in) and I'll get to send the first pitch and then we are going up the rest of the pitches to fame and glory on the summit!

We haul the hundred pounds of gear up the semi well trodden 1 hour approach trail to the base of this crazy good monolith I have devoted my summer to. As he informs me that I should reroute the second half of the approach trail through thick scrub oak because the top is too steep/loose, a summers worth of scratches and scars on my legs and forearms tinge a little with pain. Nonetheless he is impressed with the size of the cliff I have found under the noses of the Wasatch hordes. My spirits are high and I am ready for a very productive day of climbing.

I get on the first pitch and have to dig deep and fight the burn and milk the rests. But I send the crimpy, laybacking, handjamming, technical arête winding, top crux, rope stretching overall amazing first pitch to the top of a semi detached tower. Troy climbs and hangs his way up with the hundred pounds of gear and comments on the length and unexpected steepness and goodness of the first pitch (his standard of my work is very low). We look up and it looks like there is going to be a vertical step with a couple bolts then quick progress for a ways to the bottom of the upper headwall which looks very doable from this vantage point especially with the assistance of the hundred pounds of gear.

I must specify that I am not the wizard of drilling lead that tanderson or backclip are but I am confident I can get this done. I load up and head out with what I need (too many cams as usual). a nice mantle on featured rock leads to a solid stance above the belay and I drop a bolt into the super dense stone. Then there is a sweet crack for a cam placement. One more bolt and its going to be smooth sailing for another 70 feet r so.

I have great stance and drill the next hole. the rock is super hard and it takes a while to go any depth at all. I pull out the drill and the bit basically looks as sharp as a pencil eraser. Pissed off I call down the 12 feet to troy to tell him what happened to an eruption of laughter. I plug in a new bit and get back to work. This one goes in better but still takes a while but I get it deep enough to place the hardware right then it binds won't turn. I go to pull the drill out and no dice it doesn't budge. won't even turn the bit in the hole. As much as I try I cannot free the bit.

The hundred pounds of gear only included two bits. One of which was now fried and the other stuck. there was a lot of cussing from me and a lot of full volume laughter from my belayer about 10 feet below. That day, there was to be none of the expected smooth sailing above, no epic upper pitches and certainly no topout glory on the summit of the LONGEST ROUTE IN THE CANYON . . . only a bunch of hiking with a 100 pounds of gear, 12 feet of upward progress, and a whole lot of fail.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby boissal » Fri Apr 12, 2013 1:19 pm

This secret crag must be the famed Rattle Horn in City Creek Canyon.
I have little doubt that you're describing your send of the amazing Vultures are Waiting 5.8 with the second (unfinished) pitch being Sloppy Second 5.6.

I will now leave work and go steal all of the routes up there.
BUSTED!!
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby tanderson » Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:34 pm

Nope..not the rattlehorn, I won't go back up to that choss pile! This place is much taller and chossy like the fishers except this rock is sharp and solid when it breaks off. After Pete the Meat re-establishes the trail, I will go back up as a belay slave.

Viva La Chossoptimist!


good story!

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby sevrdhed » Wed Apr 17, 2013 7:29 am

grk10vq wrote:ha ha.

damn serviced? didn't know you were so resourceful?

[unrelated subliminal message]
Image
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Quality. Get your dirty french bastard friend to join and we can all dress like ewoks.
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby BackClip » Wed Apr 17, 2013 8:33 am

I thought the French already dressed like Ewoks?
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Sat Apr 20, 2013 11:58 pm

he's not dirty, he just a hippy chemist.

and

i thought they dressed more like nerf herders?
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby samg » Fri Apr 26, 2013 8:23 pm

No no, the French dress like robots and make techno.

Unless they are hippie chemists.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby boissal » Tue Apr 30, 2013 12:40 pm

German techno about robots, GERMAN! Please refrain from confusing various strains of Euro-trash.

And what is it with you guys calling me a hippie? I hardly meet any of the requirements...
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby samg » Thu May 02, 2013 1:12 am

Image

Most definitely robots, most definitely French. Eh, more style than a big styrofoam mouse mask or shaving the side of your head, or wearing a cape or something.

I suppose my latest gumby moment is trying to find bouldering at City Creek... what can I say, it's right by where I live.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:05 pm

Here's an old story from what i like to call my "stop E stop" days. However, I was a lot smarter and dressed way better. I know this.

The year was 2005, and this new, awesome route had been recently christened. Since its birth, "dirtbag" would say, lets go do this new seven pitch route! At the time, I was in my second, consistent year of climbing, and basically, I was still a noob, but to me it didn't matter, and like "stop E stop", in my mind, I was totally awesome and slaying!

So the summer was upon us, and sweet spring temps were far and few between. I get a call from "dirtbag" one mid-june day and he says "let go do it, but I gotta work at 3pm?" ...no problem, it was 11am? we were young-ish, stupid, and time was irrelevant.
I miss those days.

So we blaze up to the coal pit buttress, I blazed a little more than dirtbag...and we eventually locate the start of this soon to be ultra-classic. "dirtbag" gives me the first pitch and on this hot and humid day, I scrape my way up the first pitch passing one pin, good gear, and then arrive at the belay. Psyched to have warmed-up on this lcc 5.8 trad pitch! "dirtbag", who is in a constant hurry, ALWAYS, yells, "keep going!" A bit confused? I say, WTH? and climb the easier 2nd pitch. I arrive safe and psyched at the belay and bring "dirtbag" up to do pitch three. We swap gear, and "dirtbag" takes off as I then patiently stare at birds.

"dirtbag" climbs, and climbs, and climbs, and stretches the hell out of our 70m rope. Arriving barely at the base of pitch 5, we are four pitches down and "dirtbag" is on track for making it to work by 3pm. I clean pitch 3 and 4 and we swap gear on a brushy ledge.

Slightly delirious, and more than dehydrated, I take off for the .10+ slab pitch... a pitch I'm sure "dirtbag" gladly let me have. Whatever? I was slaying! I got this! I start up a bulgy crack, meet a bolt, and more shaky than a fern, I pass a cool flake feature and get a rest. So now, to give some perspective, we're one hour into climbing, its hot as hell, and I'm getting blasted by the sun. Whatever though, I'm slaying! or "stop E stoping"... So I work my way past this flake and up into a left-facing, shallow dihedral- which is luckily bolt protected. I wipe the sweat from my brow, look back down at "dirtbag" (who is assessing himself for a rare skin condition? or something?) and I yell, "watch me". So I work my way up, pass bolt one, barely pull off the moves to bolt two, and boulder my way to bolt 3. Psyched as hell and scared...I think, I'm doing this! So I continue on, pinching this arete like the boulderer I'd become, and I continue up this shallow, blunt arete. Up I go, up I go, and after more than ten feet above the last bolt I say: "I don't see anymore bolts?" "dirtbag" after realizing he wasn't suffering from psoriasis, says "oh?". So I continue on, climbing this new, awesome route, and get another four feet before I realize? "hey, this isn't right?" I was climbing kitty litter...and the worst of its kind? So i stop, freeze in place, panic, and suppress my soon to be, "class IV freak out". I look down, I look up, I look left...! To my left, I now discover a very low, very left, very SHINY bolt. I now realize, "face to scrappy granite", that I am seriously off-route. I now yell down to "dirtbag", "I see the bolt, its about 15 feet lower and many feet left!" "dirtbag" says: "oh?". Freaked out, I now decide to climb higher to what i see as a rounded edge/rail...

Let the fun begin: I now start up towards this feature, and with confidence behind me, I'm going to make it! I make one move, my right foot blows on the kitty litter slab, and it whips me around, face-forward, looking directly DOWN the slab I just climbed. The blown maneuver sets me up for a now, 15-18 foot RUN down the slab I just fought up. I ran until I fell, then got whipped into the air like a tether ball, flung into space by the rope, and what was the third bolt of said intended line. I got flipped up in the air and landed smack on my hip, and slid, sadly down the slab landing face-to-face and parallel with the now "balls-deep in the anchor" "dirtbag".

Sore and dazed, I laid there assessing my injuries. My elbow was jacked, my shoulder was scraped up and bruised, and my hip was killing me. I knew things were only going to get worse and I knew if I didn't get up and finish this pitch, I may never climb again?
So I finally determine nothing is broken, and I go back and finish the pitch...

Flash forward a few hours...and "dirtbag" is dropping me off on a main street in Sugarhouse. He is extremely late to work and calling his employer spraying a rap sheet full of excuses. He kicks me out of his car, and I hobble home a few hundred blocks to my house where I drop dead, unable to walk, and ice my hip for the next few hours.

Things turned out allright? But I didn't walk straight, or do anything physical for at least three weeks. "dirtbag" estimated the fall at around 40+ feet?

[/blog]

Name that route?
Last edited by grk10vq on Mon Sep 02, 2013 2:08 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby ZOSO » Mon Aug 12, 2013 10:24 pm

EZ. Pretty sure Clay told me this glory story of yours.

Stifflers.


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