My latest GUMBY moment

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bsmoot
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby bsmoot » Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:40 pm

Excellent ZoZo!

Here's an old gumby moment...I've been able to fly under the radar for a few months.

Enter Momentum climbing gym. It was a little while ago...too cold to rock climb and too warm to climb ice. Being alone, I confidently entered the gym. The fellow at the desk in a very business like tone went down the list of things I had to do to qualify for entrance to the gym. It kinda reminded me of trying to qualify for a bank loan (in the old days) without having any collateral. Somehow, managing to get in, I noticed lots of people there...didn't recognize a soul. Shortly, Chis Grover, an old friend of mine spotted me with my deer-in-the-headlights look and mentored me. Despite this, several belay police followed. Did I look like that big of a gumby? First off, I managed to pass the belay test...the person that ok'ed me looked about 20 years old. Next I had to demonstrate lead falling and then catching a fall. So up I went...hey, I'm finally climbing! Plunging off, Chris nicely caught me. Next, Chris leads up, jumps off, slams into the wall spraining his ankle. I had given him too tight of a belay. Feeling horrible, my confidence plumments. Chris limps outside to pack snow on his ankle. Several climbers schooled me how to catch falls...this is embarrasing! When the belay police made their rounds, I would turn away, trying to avoid a ticket. Not long after, I quietly slip out of the gym with my tail between my legs.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:24 am

Several climbers schooled me how to catch falls...

that is too good! the john long of the wasatch got told by a bunch of ball scratching beaters. HA! that one wins.
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby ZOSO » Sun Apr 07, 2013 9:37 am

Agreed!
Brian recounts "When generations collide."

bsmoot
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby bsmoot » Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:01 pm

"that is too good! the john long of the wasatch got told by a bunch of ball scratching beaters."

Good point Greg about John Long...at least I didn't deck.

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And then


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tanderson
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby tanderson » Sun Apr 07, 2013 3:27 pm

Great one Brian!!!!

This is a great example of the difference between the gym and the real world. You (BSMOOT) climb stuff that you DONT FALL on where they climb stuff that the slightest thumb cramp results in a hoppy jump/bail into the air whilst their flat brimmed skittle colored hat floats like a helicopter without gas, towards the ground. This is why you weren't practiced in catching falls. You climb stuff that is too scary to fall.

I remember some years back watching a guy jump off Barefoot in Barbados multiple times. I was at the top of the sport route to the left of Hatchet crack and had a great view of his sporty style. I told my wife that jumping off slabs like that is bad news. Not seconds after she and I had this conversation at the belay, he lauched again and I heard the compound fracture of his shin and screams. TPhillips was below us and ran over to help him out.

Teaching somebody to fall is a great skill. Teaching somebody that falling IS NOT an option is another skill many people dont recognize.

Next time its too cold to and too warm for ice, give me a call and we can go aid climbing.


Thanks for sharing this story

TDA

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby bsmoot » Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:42 pm

Well, with trad climbing we generally took rope in on a fall in order to prevent hitting a ledge or something. I've heard many stories where taking rope in prevented someone from getting injured or killed. Brett Ruckman took in when I fell off the top of Painted Bird in Furgeson Canoyn. The rope caught me 4 feet above the ground. During attempts on Intensive Care, Miller told me that the belayer would run across the midway ledge to shorten the long slab falls.

When I taught beginning rock climbing the U, with Harold Goodro, we only taught the hip belay! At Momentum, the elite belayers not only leave some slack out, but they jump up just as the leader is falling. Now I'm at Rockreation...close by, friendlier and more laid back. Since I'm gym climbing more now (with my daughter) I'm trying to conform....still wear my 10 inch high white socks with my climbing shoes though!

Yeah, I'll still go aid climbing.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby tanderson » Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:46 pm

Rock on Brian! Or should I say Plastic On!

Either way you've earned the respect you deserve.


TDA

p.s. We should climb Hell Broke Luce

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby boissal » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:46 pm

Last time I ran into BSmoot at the gym I talked to him for a while (read: annoyed him with spray while he was trying to leave) while one of the 20 some years old kids who inhabits the place was trying to get my attention for some reason. Brian eventually left and kid came up with a shower of spray and questions about LCC routes. I told him he should have asked "The Source" instead and he looked confused. I told him "The Source" had just left and he got even more baffled. So I explained that the guy I was talking to and he was constantly interrupting with his yo Boissal bro shouts was the one and only Brian Smoot, one of the godfathers of LCC. I got a blank stare and more spray about freeing some aid line and working Trinity Left.

The following week that beater posted a pic of himself on instagram up in the Fishers without a helmet and told me he was gonna crush Notch Peak (presumably without a helmet) and it couldn't be much worse than Devil's Castle.

I should brief the Delta SAR team on the incoming disaster.
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:50 pm

i now know why old people are so bitter.
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bsmoot
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby bsmoot » Mon Apr 08, 2013 8:20 am

grk should be the new "source" given his steller performance (albeit some cheating) in the... "Name that Route" thread.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Apr 08, 2013 10:47 am

A few of the many:

Ian Nelson, Jason Shoemaker and I went up to scope out the Warhorse line and climbed up Slip Slidin and then scrambled to the top of that buttress. I drilled the anchor holes, pounded in the bolts and ... brought the wrong wrench. Its not fun to rap off hand-tightened anchors.

Once, with Backclip we hiked all the way up to the west side of Westwind to do Grumpy Old Men. Forgot the drill bit. Backclip took a nap while I went back to the car to get it.

Backclip suffered through my first attempt at aiding White Lines. Knocking off blocks and dust raining down. Took many huge whippers onto a piton that I should have tied off short but didn't. Bent the LA almost in two. The real gumby moment came the next week when I thought it would be a good idea to jug the fixed line. About 35' off the deck the rock behind that piton blew and I fell with the jumars on the fixed line. Very lucky it didn't rip out that rope - thank you very much Mike Libecki for loaning me his new Black Diamond ascenders!

Don't worry, the Smoot knows how to take a leader fall. But he also knows how to get back on the horse!

Oh, and I forget my harness at least once a season.

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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby sevrdhed » Tue Apr 09, 2013 7:43 am

One time, I made it up to the hidden forest and had brought along a 12 pack of PBRs. I drop my pad and go to crack one when I realize.... oh no! This is full of EMPTIES! I only have like 3 beers in here!

Fortunately, I fashioned some beer out of some slings and managed to get good and buzzed while laying on my pads.

At some point I'll write up the story of going "Bolted multi-pitch" climbing with junior.... in the swell. That one's fun.
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby boissal » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:24 pm

Sev on a rope holds great gumby promises...
Here's a fresh non-climbing related one:

Went skiing before work with the Lumberjack yesterday. I was raving about my new boots, how light they were and how much better they were than his $-enough-to-buy-a-kidney Dynafit Vulcans.
We make turns and drop Flagstaff back to the car. Lumberjack is ahead of me, points to a small roller at the bottom of Flag and suggests I throw a big split or a daffy off it. Never one to shy away from a steezy move I aim for the roller, get thrown in the backseat by a compression just before it, take off and realize it's not so much a roller as it is a 6' huck to flat/uphill. Fearing for my ACLs, I attempt to get even more in the backseat and proceed to back slap the shit out of this gigantic drop. I figure the dynafits will release or the skis will flex a bunch or something... What I didn't expect is a crunching sound from both boots followed by a sudden looseness in the ankle not unlike what happens when you ski in walk mode. For a second I thought Garmont had done an awesome job designing a releasable ski mode to protect the knees in case of extreme back-seating. Then I looked at the walk mode and notice both of the aluminum bars are bent 90 degrees and sheared off.

Day 2 on the new boots. Back to warranty with a request for steel bars instead of aluminum. FML.
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grk10vq
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby grk10vq » Wed Apr 10, 2013 2:29 pm

ha ha.

damn serviced? didn't know you were so resourceful?

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tanderson
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Re: My latest GUMBY moment

Postby tanderson » Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 pm

Great posts! I'll add another:

Back in my Zion days the late great Daniel "Guata" Garcia was leading the very first pitch of Moonlight buttress. This was the direct start rather than the 5.9 ramp out left. Anyhow, there were a few of us at the base and Guata was leading up through the 5.10 free climbing in old Garmont sticky weekends. Free climbing in non-technical climbing shoes was his specialty as I witnessed him onsight Gas Chamber 5.11 at the S-Curve in green low top vans and single oval carabiners!

Lets get back to ZIon. Guata was directly above us and standing on a ledge looking at a verticle lieback. He looked down at me and told me to watch him while he committed to the moves about. Very relaxed and smoking a cigarette (thank god for grgri's), I told him I was watching. We watched that small bulldog of a man commence to liebacking the next 12-15 feet without placing anything! Suddenly I saw him slip off the lieback and fall toward me. I heard a deep sounding exhale as he hit the ledge above me. I could not see him as the ledge was large enough to camp on. A few seconds passed and Guata rolled his face over the ledge to look at us saying "I just met the Zion chiropractor." Whatever the hell that meant is beyond me, I was just glad to see that he was alive. In classic Guata style, he stood up, shook off, stretched his back, and went right back up the lieback sending without gear once again. He made it to the belay and screamed "jug-line fixed!!!!!" and we safely motored up.

I miss that guy.

Troy

p.s. I watched the very same guy lean back on his daisy chain on the last vertical pitch of Prodical Son only to discover that his daisy was unattached. Nothing like a 20 foo,t head first, upside down fall, with your back to the wall, ten feet from the end, at dusk.


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