New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

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boissal
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New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby boissal » Wed Mar 20, 2013 2:31 am

Just saw the update on the FB about the new Momemtum on 33rd South. Guess that's one rumor that finally turns out to have some basis.
Other rumors include new Front with lead walls and the final (and untimely) demise or Rockreation.

Anyone want to feed the rumor mill or spray down some well informed beta? It will take me at least 9 months to mentally adjust if I need to relocate to a new gym, learn how to climb with a shirt on and without vast amounts of profanity.
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sevrdhed
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby sevrdhed » Wed Mar 20, 2013 11:59 pm

Start climbing with a wifebeater on.... that's cut above your belly button. Start screaming "frick" a bunch. You'll do just fine.

I do wonder what impact this will have on the cockvibrations business... it certainly SEEMS targeted at them.

I've also heard the lead wall at the front rumors... Dustin needs to get on here and confirm. To feed the rumor mill some more, while down there loitering I've occasionally seen a couple of suits wandering around chatting with Dustin... obviously not climbers, looked a lot like investors. Is he digging up capital to pay for the expansion??? Dun dun dunnnnnnnnn
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby shiho » Thu Mar 21, 2013 5:37 am


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boissal
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby boissal » Thu Mar 21, 2013 6:12 am

shiho wrote:http://www.momentumclimbing.com/

Momentum #2...

Reading comprehension dab #2...
That one is set in stone.
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db
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby db » Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:30 pm

I don't think anything is "aimed at Rockreation". The town and climber base has blown up since 1991. It's simply a case of innovate or perish.

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sevrdhed
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby sevrdhed » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:48 am

db wrote:I don't think anything is "aimed at Rockreation". The town and climber base has blown up since 1991. It's simply a case of innovate or perish.


Could be true. I may be too used to the cutthroat world of corporations targetting each other to undermine each others business and try to gain an edge. When I see something like this, I see a calculated attempt at leeching off business from a current competitor. It's totally possible that Jeff is just looking for the best place to have a gym with no thought to his competition.
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby boissal » Wed Mar 27, 2013 1:38 pm

I was talking to Yak and a couple other Rockreation old timers yesterday. Nobody has any idea what will happen to the place and I think the core users would be really bummed to see it go. The place has seen very few (no) improvements over the past few years but the setting is excellent, the atmosphere is still great and the crowds not too annoying. Yeah it's small, it's old, it's crusty, it's not very tall, bla bla bla. I for one am not looking forward to having a bunch of angry drones breathing down my neck, bitching about my belay technique while people hit the deck on a regular basis, browbeating me cause I take my shirt off then run around screaming obscenities while kicking people's chalk bags, etc...

Let's hope it won't be a scaled-down version of the mom and pop shop getting devoured by the corporate entity. Although when I read comments like this:
This new Momentum location sounds awesome though. 50' lead walls, co-designed by Sharma, membership works at both locations for the same price, and most importantly so much closer to my house. I can't believe it took this long for SLC to get something like this. About freakin time. Fall can't come soon enough.

I have little hope. Demand is high and business savy people will be making a buck when and where they can and they shouldn't be blamed for it. Even when Sharma's name is dropped and fall season is implicitly referred to as prime plastic-slaying time.
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby BackClip » Thu Mar 28, 2013 11:00 am

boissal wrote:I for one am not looking forward to having a bunch of angry drones breathing down my neck, bitching about my belay technique while people hit the deck on a regular basis, browbeating me cause I take my shirt off then run around screaming obscenities while kicking people's chalk bags, etc...



I lol'd
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Re: New Momentum / New Front / Death of Rockreation

Postby bsmoot » Sat May 11, 2013 11:49 am

"I for one am not looking forward to having a bunch of angry drones breathing down my neck, bitching about my belay technique while people hit the deck on a regular basis, browbeating me cause I take my shirt off then run around screaming obscenities while kicking people's chalk bags, etc..."


Yeah, yeah! Being friendly can go a long way. In addition, it's not just the staff, but the climbers at Momentum are rather bossy. Maybe they feel or even deserve that entitlement...I mean todays young gym climbers are less hairy, they dress better, smell better and look sharper than the older crew. These new climbers are bold (at least as far as gym climbers go). Not only are they willing to take long falls, but many of them. They probably won't be able to tell you who Reinhold Messner, Royal Robbins or even Sir Edmund Hillary are, but to them that's not important.

It's possible that Rockreation may survive, given the number of climbers there are these days. They do need to rally and upgrade their holds though. One climber I know left because they weren't changing their routes often enough. I like the casualness of the place though. It reminds me of the basic anti-establishment culture of many climbers. It's hard to know if the bigger, better, cleaner, less smelly Momentum will cause Rockreation to bail. In the mid 1980's when REI came to town, we all watched in sadness as Timberline Sports rather quickly went out of business. Some of the gang, like Dean Hannibal and Mark Freed made brief appearances there before moving on. Dennis Turville was long gone. Lucky for us, IME defied the odds, coming to town to set up shop. BD arrived soon after. If these 3 gear outlets can coexist... maybe Rockreation can still live!


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