your mp moment of zen...

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Tue May 19, 2015 5:57 pm

My heart goes out to whomever had their efforts toward this wall spoiled, as well as to those who could have been placed in danger from the unannounced clippings


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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Mon Jun 01, 2015 3:37 pm

"The Mantel" was bolted on lead by Scott Keller in 1996. Brian Cabe later claimed to have free-soloed it in 1985.

Damn Brian, free-soloing stuff and claiming FAs...
Is it a memory that sprouted in your head after getting hit in the head with ice/rock?
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:30 pm

i'm just waiting for tyler or luke to piss me off so i break the news about my 1998 solo of stiffler's mom.
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Brian in SLC
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby Brian in SLC » Mon Jun 08, 2015 1:21 pm

Geez, I never claimed an FA...just that it had been commonly done back in the day is all. Mantle Variation is in all the old guidebooks as a route. I'd heard it'd been soloed. Kim probably did laps on it methinks...

Stifflers...before the dust up over this route, I remember talking to someone in REI and upon mentioning it, their eye's lit up and they went into a near trance like state...."I think I did that route"...1996.

Strange stuff.
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Tue Jun 09, 2015 9:07 am

Brian in SLC wrote:Geez, I never claimed an FA...just that it had been commonly done back in the day is all. Mantle Variation is in all the old guidebooks as a route. I'd heard it'd been soloed. Kim probably did laps on it methinks...

Stifflers...before the dust up over this route, I remember talking to someone in REI and upon mentioning it, their eye's lit up and they went into a near trance like state...."I think I did that route"...1996.

Strange stuff.

Yeah right, you totally claimed the FA, I also remember you saying you did it on May 12th 1985, it was a warmish Monday but it was overcast. The ice block which hit me on the head in 1992 reminded me, I had forgotten after getting hit by a piece of choss in 1988.
Strangely enough the same piece of ice told me about a route that would be done around 2008 and suggested I do it first and call it "the most natural line". Did that in 1996...

Another funny one from the same box of tools:

No problem. Thanks. Just making sure I get it right.

That's in regards to a misspelled route name on MP.com. I guess when you're mining free databases to create a guidebook for your own profit you gotta make sure you get all the typos right...
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Wed Jun 17, 2015 3:16 pm

GRK is gonna love this....

About two months ago, I gave Hollow Man (BCC) a shot, but I got worked (my first lead fall!). I was told that there was a way to scramble (4th class) up the backside of Challenge Buttress to the top, do one rappel, set up a top rope on Hollow Man, and then do one more rappel down to the ground. Does anyone know exactly where this scramble is?
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Fri Jul 03, 2015 10:51 am

Tanner Wilcox wrote:Read this if you don't want to get lost!

Alright it looks like no one has been here in over 10 years so I'm going to provide a bit of an update on the area and better directions on how to get to the Twilight Buttress. I've attached a map of sorts because it took us a long time to even verify that we were going the right way.

First thing you should know, the hike is brutal. What was probably a nice trail is now a rather steep hike littered with loose rocks. Make sure you bring great hiking shoes and a walking stick wouldn't hurt. Also I would recommend bringing a machete or better yet a chainsaw for later on.

Park in the parking lot of the park near the church, (other directions tell you how to get there). Walk SE up the paved trail until you hit a dirt path labeled Bonneville Shoreline Trail. It will be the first dirt path on your left. This heads north. Walk up that a bit until you hit a red gate labelled "No dogs, this means you." walk past that and keep going until you get to a second gate that I assume used to say no trespassing. It's very weathered at this point. Hop that and keep going up. You're going to get to a point where you cross over a stream. When you see a (pretty hidden) cement catchment on your right you know you've gone far enough. Now look up, Twilight Buttress is the second rock formation on your left (north of where you're standing).

Previous instructions say there was some sort of trail but it looks like fallen trees have closed it down. We looked for hours and found no trail. We tried climbing a very rocky slope and caused a rock slide, hurt my ankle. The only way we could find a way to the rock was by going through extremely think forestry. You will need to cut a lot of stuff down from what we saw. We even tried hiking to the back the Twilight Buttress, again, no way to get to it.

It looks like no one has been here in years and there's no real trail to get to the actual climb. Good luck using the anchor points as they're probably pretty worn at this point.


This map shows how pretty impossible it is to get from the trail to the climb. [insert map to giant choss heap which is clearly NOT the Twilight Buttress]


the internet can be an incredible place to publicly and willingly display just how dumb you can be.
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:11 am

Some guy who has nooo sense of humor at least not enough self-esteem to laugh at himself.
Dude quit being an asshole I'm just trying to find a climb with pretty bad information. The instructions never say that the roads end and the top of the rock looked similar to the top of the rock in the picture. I don't understand your frustration I'm just asking for help


And then there's Boisall:
Asshole? You ungrateful twat, I made you a map!

I'm sorry to hear that the top of both buttresses look similar and it threw you off. I'm impressed your persevered without realizing that the nature of the rock, the approach time and orientation of the crag were wrong. I imagine you had your phone with you to compare pics? Gotta wonder in which state you'd have ended up if you had been going by the guidebook...

Congrats though, you probably made a rare repeat of:

The other Sunset Arete
The other Sunset Arete


Although the description for that pile doesn't make it sound like you should have had a major Survivor moment in talus and scrub oak.

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby grk10vq » Thu Jul 23, 2015 12:39 pm

I was waiting in line for Theater of Shadows while they did this pitch


i bet you were...
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby ddriver » Mon Aug 10, 2015 12:18 pm

I know we are friends on facebook and you can contact me there.

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Tenesmus
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby Tenesmus » Mon Sep 28, 2015 10:28 am

Well Hello, Tyler Phillips

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby ZOSO » Thu Oct 01, 2015 7:35 am

He he he. Look at the FA info.

http://mountainproject.com/v/broken/109497320

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby Tenesmus » Thu Oct 22, 2015 9:33 am

Dang. Someone really does post all their boulder problems on mountain project.

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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby boissal » Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:41 am

This says pitch 2 is .10-? I thought it was 5.7..


From the same bro:
More information:
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Re: your mp moment of zen...

Postby BackClip » Mon Mar 21, 2016 10:03 am

acommontrend wrote: I climbed this March 17th 2016. The first time i attempted i bailed and left a .75 on the route and a nut with some draws. I came back 2 hours later to get it back and it was already gone!. Please contact me at 512 658 7009 if you have it. I am too poor to buy more! thanks! (also a beautiful climb)
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