Watched someone blow a #2 cam and rip the flake/jug about 2/3's the way up Gordon's Direct. The toaster sized block almost crushed his belayer and another party on the deck... sketchy.
shiho wrote:wayyyy too many bolts and they are not even well bolted. If you want adventure on chossy limestone, you are better off climbing notch peak.
Yeah, RP, tree used to have slings (the tree below the roof used to be the end and anchor on the first pitch).
Was there a two bolt anchor on the upper face of the first pitch? That thing has to go. Maybe someone already took care of it?
You can rap down to River's Edge, too, and hit the ground from that anchor with a single 70 (maybe 60).
hmmm, appears the photo I linked to has been removed from http://www.facebook.com/LittleCottonwoo ... ts&fref=ts
I've never chopped a bolt but I'd like to give it up to those individuals who sacrifice their free time; time when they could be climbing and having fun. Thanks for keeping me safe from climbing rap-bolted routes, terrorists and gay marriage.
From: Provo, Utah.
Jul 4, 2012
In April of 2010 Taylor Maughan and I climbed the first 8 pitches. Even though the rest of the route wasn’t set yet, I fell in love with the route. It wasn’t until June 11th of this year that I climbed the route again, this time with Nick Cloward. This climb has amazing variety, great exposure, and gives dynamic to the climbing challenge.
Nick Cloward and I picked the perfect day. As far as weather goes, this is my opinion:
- 70-80 degrees is just fine (We climbed it with a high of 76)
- 80-85 is pushing the limit (We trained in this weather. We were downing water like crazy)
- Anything 85+ you will find miserable.
There’s pretty much a constant breeze moving around up there, which is nice. But the hotter it is, the more water you bring, and the more the sun zaps your energy.
This was our time schedule. We kept it pretty chill on the speed – enjoying the scenery a bit too much and whatnot:
7:15 leave parking lot
8:15 start 1st pitch
1:15 reach cave
- Lunch -
2:15 start 12th pitch
11:15 end 22nd pitch
11:45 start trail descent
1:15 get back to cars
TOTAL = 18 hours
We climbed 3 pitches in the dark. We summitted 2 hours behind ‘schedule’ – the sheer volume of pitches takes a good bit out of ya. The last quarter just seems harder because you’re tired.
- DON’T climb this without a helmet. I got beaned in the helmet twice with rocks. And that number easily could have been more.
- The “red” rope described in previous posts is now grey. Fully functional, just grey.
- In reading this form there is a high probability that climbing is a large part of your life. If you call yourself a climber, live within the Valley, and do not give this route a full-hearted attempt – you are doing yourself a disservice. The location of this superb route is second to none!
Tristan – Thank you for all your hard work and time spent in creating this route. It truly is an amazing gift to the climbing community. Rock Canyon has been a ‘stomping grounds’ to me for the past 3 years. I’ve climbed all over that place and I can truly say this is an impressive and unrivaled capstone to all the routes in Rock Canyon. Thank you.
Oct 3, 2012
wayyyy too many bolts and they are not even well bolted. If you want adventure on chossy limestone, you are better off climbing notch peak.
By Brennan Crellin
From: Draper, UT
13 hours ago
Tristan, thank you for your hard work on this classic climb! We looked forward to it for two years, finally set aside a day to send it, then loved it. The rock quality is sub-prime in a few spots, but that was out of your control and you set a great line, with fun climbing. Well done!
Climbed with my wife, Alexis, October 19,2012...43-67 F, no precipitation
Timing: Left car at 6:45am, started Pitch1 at 8:00am, finished Pitch 11 at 12:00 pm, reached summit at 6:30 pm, 10.5 hours of climbing
Gear beta: 20 draws, 4-24" slings, 2-48" slings, small backpack each, 3L water each, light food, headlamps, helmets, daisy chains, approach/traversing shoes
- Bolting is great on almost every pitch. Skipped some when linking pitches, but Tristan did an awesome job bolting this safely for its grade.
- Linked pitches 3 & 4, 5 & 6, 7 & 8, 14 & 15
- Pitch 1: not 5.10b but probably 5.9+
- Pitch 11: NOT 5.8 but probably 5.7 awkward...worst pitch!
- Pitch 16: NOT 5.10d. This pitch is easily 5.11a/b. Also, bolts on the sharp thin slab of this pitch should have been closer.
- Pitch 17: not 5.9 but probably 5.8. We added a section of red rope to the first bolt for improved visibility.
- Pitch 19: NOT 5.10c, but more like 5.10d-5.11a
- Roofs of Pitch 22: 5.10???.....probably 5.10c-5.11a range.
Choss guzzling P-town homie wrote:Climbed with my wife, Alexis
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