Goodro's slayer wrote:Got the onsight TR and look forward to a true onsight with gear
On TR I give it a 10b, we'll see what happens when I lead.
Moderator: Shaft
Goodro's slayer wrote:Got the onsight TR and look forward to a true onsight with gear
On TR I give it a 10b, we'll see what happens when I lead.
"James, what you can possibly have against the raps? The old bolts are fine and the new anchor (which is protected, easy to spot and convenient to pull from) eliminates the semi-sketchy downclimb. Getting off with a 70m is a breeze... As the Lord Of Rappelling I thought you'd be pleased"
That struck a nerve... Tell you what, if you ever want to go back up there I'll belay you. And come back the next day for your bail biner.
bsmoot wrote:What can be done?
Tyler is obviously too ignorant to not try the 3.2% Utah versions of those beers. Probably an LDS reject that recently discovered alcohol.
bheller
SL UT
"Well-respected but not well-protected." Offering climbing that is brilliant, continuous and serious with a memorable crux. Its the 5.12 version of Minimum Security. C3's and slider nuts tame the former 1980's X rating to plain ole R...just like in modern cinema!
The start of the climb is from the farthest left and lowest point off a detached vertical flake at the base of the wall...from here I still stepped down and left to place my first nut behind a solid dinner plate flake fused to the wall. Next the climbing was up and right-trending, and then a bit left, and then to the right. Weavy!
No anchors exist currently (I spotted empty holes with sleeves, but the anchors have been removed) so BYOA. And also BYOB (full strength) for the post-send picnic...or pain suppression from a possible gear ripping fall at the crux...
The crux felt harder and more involved than Jack The Ripper so...perhaps 12a/b R?
Also, I'm pleased to report that the first time I scrambled uptop to BMOA, as I rounded the upper corner onto a ledge I nearly bumbed into a sexy women (make-up'd with big hoop earrings!) engaged in a fully nude cliff-side photo session with a photographer. I told her I was "just" a climber, assured her she looked great, and suggested she just continue on as if I was never there. I went to the cliff-top and my blank mind spun and fumbled through it's cerebral catalouge trying to pull up a worn and faded John Long "file". As I struggled with tital recall, she sheepishly left. And if that wasn't enough(!), as I rapelled down the face I saw below where a lonesone pot smoker had snuck into the alcove below the route just before the scramble up to the base ledges of the wall- he was crouched down toking and didn't even know I was in the area- he didn't see me until I was right above him! Yeah man, but have you ever been rappeled onto while on weed!? Secret police sneak attack! He boarishly left. So yeah, Yellow Peril also has THAT going for it!
-An unreserved 4 stars- 1 day ago
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